Speed up a 969?

[kw573]

Hello all,
I've been otherwise distracted for a short while, but am back into the 969 again. Thanks for the comment 68427vette. I look forward to seeing a photo journal of a C2 restoro. I've only ever seen one C2 in Oz.
The main thing I'm doing at the moment is trinket-y things on the cabin vis. switches, clips, brackets, etc. The main junction block on the firewall has been blasted and straightened, it had a fair sort of a bow in it and as I reasoned that it was probably heat related, I applied some gentle heat from a paint-stripper gun and held it correctly as it cooled down and that worked. It behaved like a thermo-forming plastic, which it may be. A phenolic resin of some sort?
Anyway, here is something unexpected that I found when servicing the main light switch. There is a mechanism that prevents the switch being pulled on unless the bezel is correctly in it's position. The picture below shows a close-up of the back of the mounting plate, with a spring that holds a sealing washer against the main body opening of the switch, and a tagged washer against the mounting bolt at the front end. This tagged washer tips sideways, as can be seen, locking onto the shaft, somewhat like the action of some quick-action clamps from a hardware shop.

KIF_1183.JPG (88.21 KiB) Viewed 838 times

However, there is a small tube that floats in the mounting bolt that pushes the tagged washer off it's seat, thus releasing the shaft to move freely, as can be seen below. It is the bezel that pushed the front end of the tube inwards and onto the tagged washer. Therefore, effectively, the switch can't be pulled 'on' until the bezel is fitted!!! Why go to all this trouble? Go figure?

KIF_1184.JPG (83.41 KiB) Viewed 841 times

Here is a corner of the cab showing the governer, junction block and bonnet webbing, which incidently seems to be exactly the same size/length as the MB grille webbing.

KIF_1185.JPG (79.54 KiB) Viewed 841 times

Some feed-back please, Do you want to see this level of detail explained? Remember, I'm no expert.
Have a nice day, Sam.

[gerrykan]

I find it fascinating Sam, but let's see what the others have to say.
I look forward to each update to your 969 thread. (they should add a 'Thumbs Up' emoticon to the forums)

[Jeff Jensen]

Hi Sam
Just happen to have my switch out and in front of me.
It seems to be a secondary lock in-case the service lights lock out button or the bezel breaks,It also seems to limit the thickness the dash or whatever it is mounted to.
Jeff

[appel]

sam can i pls have your eamil adress?

thanks nick

[cessna]

Sam,
Keep it coming! I am intrigued by your post and the work you are putting into your project. Thanks for posting the pictures as well!
Brian

[clintm20]

Sam,

Keep those pics coming, I'm really enjoying the postings and I love your K-Whopper.

Clint

[Jeff Gordon]

Some feed-back please, Do you want to see this level of detail explained? Remember, I'm no expert.

If you are not an expert you make me look like an amature!
Looking forward to the next post.
I might be going to Gladstone for work in a couple of weeks. I will call in and see what you are up to.
I will let you know.
Cheers
Jeff

[kw573]

Hello all,
Holidays and illness have kept me off-task for 2 1/2 weeks. Anyone want a headcold? Free?
Nick, I have tried to send a PM. I think it worked.
Jeff, it would be great if you dropped in. If you could give me some notice, I may even be able to get those tool racks done for you. (Bring the bumperette!) There is always a bed here for you if that helps.
Brian, Clint, thanks for the replies.
The webbing that I used for the bonnet-to-cowl strip, I'm also going to use on the lid for the compartment behind/below the passenger seat. These strips were mainly held in place with bifuracted(split) rivets except on the sides of the cowl, which had an odd wire/split-pin arrangement. I stayed with the rivets as can be seen in a picture a few posts ago.
I am currently wrestling with how to make the hinge section of the top of the inner windscreen frame. I think I can manage a close-enough item with the careful use of a panbrake and a strip of black 1.6mm M.S. sheet. Of course, I'll post pics when I get to it.
Have a nice day, Sam.

[Ben Dover]

HI Sam.
I received your PM and typed up a response with costs only to discover that you have no PM or E-Mail option
Please PM me your email address and I will gladly respond.
It is 12:37 AM Monday and I am hitting the sack. See you later today.

[Ben Dover]

BTT

[appel]

hi sam! pm don't work whit me... pls email me at hoobler1@hotmail.com

thanks nick

[kw573]

Sorry guys,
I don't know why this stuff isn't working. My email is schosa@optusnet.com Sometimes it seems to need .au on the end.

BTT?

I have recieved PM's previously on this site. Can they be blocked/suspended or something? I don't understand! (doesn't take much. he he!)

Either way, thanks for getting back to me. Have a nice day/evening/night, where ever the sun is in your part of the world. Sam.

[cessna]

Trying going into your User Control Panel at the upper left of the screen, then click on Board Preferances. Might have accidently clicked something wrong in there, or your inbox could be full and it will not accept new PMs. I had that happen to me before.

BTT is Bump To Top, a posting to keep this thread from falling down the page.

[kw573]

Righto, bit by bit, I'm getting this. Yes, both my e-mail and PM were set to 'no'. This has now been fixed. I much prefer PM to email as I look on this site much more than I check my emails.

Anyway, I've been playing with the plumbing for the windscreen wipers. The tricky bit was the fittings at the pivot bolt of the windscreen (thats the one I welded up). A small metal pipe comes through the pivot bolt and screws into a hexagonal fitting. The thread is close enough to 12NC. NC and NF threads go to a numbers system instead of diameters, under 1/4" . 12NC is the largest it seems. The pipe I used is brake pipe, aka. 'bundy tube' and seems to work well. The fitting is 1/2" M.S. hex rod. The end takes a tube nut, originally an olive type fitting. As I didn't have the tools to machine the seat for this, I reverted to an olive type flare on the pipe and used some tube nuts, that I had on hand, designed for the conventional 'inverted flare' as commonly used on brake line fittings. Their thread is 7/16"NF. In the hex fitting, I simply relied on the shape of a carefully sharpened drill bit.
This diagram shows an olive type flare at the left, and a double inverted flare at the right. My flaring tool is different to the one here, but does the same thing. Hence I can produce a flare that mimicks an 'olive', that will seat in the drilled hole OK and in the inverted flare nut just fine.

Flare diagrams.JPG (158.5 KiB) Viewed 537 times

Below:- at left is the tube nut, showing the recess for the inverted flare, centre is the hex fitting with holes drilled and tapped, and right is the tapped end of the tube that goes through the windscreen pivot bolt.

Nut showing inverted flare end, Joiner and tube showing thread.JPG (87.5 KiB) Viewed 535 times

And here it all is assembled.

Fitted to vehicle.JPG (155.5 KiB) Viewed 536 times

As I can only put three pics per post, this continues on the next post.

[Ben Dover]

The M-37 and WC have a similar set up at the windshield pivot for the wipers. Some of the older dealers have the parts.