GP Shocks

[ea1ret]

Well I have removed my shocks and I have a question. The arm of my shocks are hard to push down but # 4 is very easy to move and looks like it has been leaking. The question is am I correct to presume that I have one that needs to be rebuit. I so where do Imsend it t be rebuilt.

Thanks
Ron

[pierino]

hi Ron!...


well... when I needed to do that job, I sent my shock absorbers to http://www.applehydraulics.com/ ...a little bit expensive, I should say, but they did a wonderful job... of course, I have no connection with them, and last time I got in touch with them was in 2005.

be aware... the GP shock absorbers are very close to civilian ones... they have a small difference in the cover that is typical ...so, don't allow them to change those details during restoration...

ciao!
maurizio

[ea1ret]

Maurizio, Thanks again for your info.

Ron

[DavidA]

Maurizio,

You say there is a slight difference, do you have any photos? I have a set on the GP and a set that are in a box. I sure would like to know the differences.

Thanks...

[pierino]

do I have any photos?... YES, of course, and not only!!...


ok,

let's start with some details.

GP shock absorbers (at least the ones that were on my 2nd series GP): on the arm, there's a script: F - 898 , while on the back of housing: P 1963 and a A in a triangle.










when shipped at the shop above, owner found that one was very bad. we made a comparation with other shocks that we considered as donors, mainly for the body, of course, while we could still use the arm.








look at pictures - 0 was my shock. We considered at that time to rebuild either 1 or 2 and install on it arm from my shock . (1 is front for 1939-40 Studebaker, 2 is front for 1937-41 Ford)

Differences:
- my shock had three notches on its face (where shaft comes out), theirs have six (theirs were only similar to a drawing I sent from "gp parts and price list").
- 1 had different pattern on the bottom, 2 had same pattern as my shock (numbers were different).
- 1 had same body height, 2 was about 1/2 inch (12 mm) taller than my shock.

at the end, and after deeply looking after an usable one to replace the worst of my four, I followed suggestions of Lazar (the owner).

here the considerations that he made at that time, and that I think could be useful to you all!

"...I wish you good luck finding more cores. As far as I know, only first few thousand Ford-made Jeeps had these shocks, the rest had telescopic (tubular) shocks. Also, this is the only case where I have seen face with three notches, all other (for other cars) Houdaille shocks had six. In any case, shocks you find can be with bad (bent, broken, etc.) arms, it is easy to replace arms when rebuilding and we can use arms from your two remaining shocks. But, make sure that shaft rotates and that movement is kind of smooth (no grinding like in your first shock). You can also remove filler plug and take a peek inside - if it all dust + rust, it is bad, it should have some traces of shock fluid..."


hope this helps!

ciao
maurizio

[ea1ret]

At least I know that my shocks are the same type that is on yours. At least Bubba did not changed these.

[pierino]

At least I know that my shocks are the same type that is on yours. At least Bubba did not changed these.

good! I'm happy for you!!...

next step, is to take courage in your hands, ship them to a rebuild shop, and listen for the restoration estimate...


ciao!
maurizio

[DavidA]

I knew I would get a good lesson on shocks if I asked.

Now to go to the garage and try to find my spares. I have a box up there in the loft somewhere. I hope they are right.

Thanks Maurizio...

[pierino]

I knew I would get a good lesson on shocks if I asked.

too kind of you!... ...I had good teachers here...

Now to go to the garage and try to find my spares. I have a box up there in the loft somewhere. I hope they are right.

Thanks Maurizio...

ok, let us know! ...we all keep our fingers crossed!

ciao
maurizio

[Brian Wolf]

Thought I might revisit shocks for a bit. I was messing with GPs today, and noticed a difference between first and second series. Seems the first series had the bolts (that hold the shocks) facing outward, nuts and lock washer on the outside of the frame versus the second series that has the bolts facing inward with nuts and washers on the inside of the frame. Can anyone else confirm this?