And a top frame question

[Jim Sanders]

In my mix of parts and pieces I got with my M422 are two rods that appear to be the brace that goes from the windshield (M38A1) to the top frame - they are straight rods with flat ends with holes. However, one of them measures 29 inches from hole to hole and the other, 34 1/4 inches. Perchance, is the longer one for an A1? If so, does anyone have a M422 rod that they would like to trade for the longer one? Else, are the rods for the M422 available somewhere? Is the attachment method one end of the rod on the pin located on the upright with a clip or cotter pin to hold it and the other end secured to the windshield bracket with a bolt and wingnut?

[David Dunn]

The rod is 29 3/4" long overall for a M422A1.
I just measured mine. So, one of yours could be for a M38A1?
It would probably be easier to cut the long one of yours and reweld it than go hunting one down.
Though i haven't tried it yet, I wonder if they are really needed for a top only, without side curtains or doors . The canvas is held tight front and rear, and the loops on the canvas to the front crossbar keeps the framework from moving ( much ).( I'll probably go home today and try it)
The framework stows quite nicely with those rods removed, and I haven't found a nice place to store them seperately on the Mite.


Dave Dunn

[Jim Sanders]

I had an M38A1 with a summer top and never had the rods. My thinking is that the rods will reduce the top flapping at speed (maybe 40 mph or so). My M38A1 top flapped something terrible at road speed - you really needed to wear a helmet if you drove it on the highway.

[edisworking]

I not put my top up but there are 2 sets of rods on my top [ 4pc ]

[David Dunn]

Ok,I just got back after experimenting with putting the canvas on without the rods for the windshield frame to the front hoop. Other than the framework flopped around without the braces to hold it steady while laying the top on, it worked quite well. With the rear straps secured, it even set the back vertical rods down all the way in their holes.
Though I was concern that there might be added stress to the straps or top, I saw nothing while driving to warrant it

Edisworking
By 4 rods, I would assume you are including the 2 used at the rear to hold the rear crossbar up in place. Though a little difficult to see in this pic, it shows all the rods for the top. The two rear rods will fold nicely together against the rear crossbar when the framework is folded down.

Dave Dunn

[FUBARjeep]

Nice picture.

I stow my two rear rods up against the rear top bow and hold them there with the canvas strap. I also store the Mite with the rear flap and window unzipped and stretched tight against the bottom of the top with the flaps straps attached around the front top bow. Since I cannot figure out how to get the "discoloration" from preservative off of the window, I don't want to store it with the window visible. Another reason for storing the two rear rods in this up position, is that I only have one hole in the rear upper wheel wells to put them in; one of them would have to have a hold drilled.

[Jim Sanders]

I got a lot of the stain out of my rear window using liquid (not aerosol) Lemon Pledge. I've used this on vinyl windows for years with good cleaning and maintenance results.

[jc.0106]

I recently replaced the M38A1 windshield on my M422A1 with the early thin windshield and wanted to be able to use my old canvas top.

In order to do this I remembered seeing an article in the Japanese Military Vehicle Journal #7 which shows photos of Mighty Mites in Vietnam with a 4 inch piece of angle aluminum attached to the top of the thin windshields for use with M38A1 canvas.

I put together some PVC drain pipe and attached it to my thin windshield and now my old canvas fits perfectly.

[FUBARjeep]

I got a lot of the stain out of my rear window using liquid (not aerosol) Lemon Pledge. I've used this on vinyl windows for years with good cleaning and maintenance results.

Good info. Thanks, I may try that tomorrow.