My first Mule :) M274A5 1968 SN 10797 REG #325091
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Re: My first Mule :) M274A5 1968 SN 10797 REG #325091
Lance, I am not sure about the position of the bracket on that photo, but here's a different one that I know is correct, and it sits pretty high, too.
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Re: My first Mule :) M274A5 1968 SN 10797 REG #325091
The bracket position should allow the rear steering rod to move easily between the front bell crank yoke and 2 wheel steer lock out.
I will measure the center line of the clevis hole to the tube bracket and post later today.
Align the rear tires with a slight tow in when in 2 wheel steer.
Set the telescoping tube to your steering wheel preference.
Then set the steering gear lock plate notch in line with the roll pin. That should be center position almost 1-1/2 turns from full left or right. If not then reposition the lock plate witness mark in line with the lever shaft witness mark. Use ratchet straps [steering wheel to rails] to keep the wheel from turning.
Then adjust the steering gear draglink assembly to allow the rear steering rod to lock into the tow bar draglink clevis and the 2 wheel steer bracket.
Then wedge the tow bar draglink assembly to the underside of the front bed support assembly so it will not move. Wooden wedges work great.
Then adjust the front tires with a slight tow in. A string works well. I use an 8' level as a straight edge and 4 unmounted wheels.
All your tie rod ends must be tight so there is no slop this can make setting tow in difficult.
I made a press plug that will tighten worn tie rod ends. For ease remove the whole assembly to press. If frozen you will need to disassemble and chase threads. The chamfer is rough because my drill press is my lathe.
I did my wife's daily driver about 2 months ago and the tie rod ends are still tight.
I will measure the center line of the clevis hole to the tube bracket and post later today.
Align the rear tires with a slight tow in when in 2 wheel steer.
Set the telescoping tube to your steering wheel preference.
Then set the steering gear lock plate notch in line with the roll pin. That should be center position almost 1-1/2 turns from full left or right. If not then reposition the lock plate witness mark in line with the lever shaft witness mark. Use ratchet straps [steering wheel to rails] to keep the wheel from turning.
Then adjust the steering gear draglink assembly to allow the rear steering rod to lock into the tow bar draglink clevis and the 2 wheel steer bracket.
Then wedge the tow bar draglink assembly to the underside of the front bed support assembly so it will not move. Wooden wedges work great.
Then adjust the front tires with a slight tow in. A string works well. I use an 8' level as a straight edge and 4 unmounted wheels.
All your tie rod ends must be tight so there is no slop this can make setting tow in difficult.
I made a press plug that will tighten worn tie rod ends. For ease remove the whole assembly to press. If frozen you will need to disassemble and chase threads. The chamfer is rough because my drill press is my lathe.
I did my wife's daily driver about 2 months ago and the tie rod ends are still tight.
Mules are my passion
www.m274armymules.com
www.m274armymules.com
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Re: My first Mule :) M274A5 1968 SN 10797 REG #325091
Chuck,Chuck W. wrote:Lance, I am not sure about the position of the bracket on that photo, but here's a different one that I know is correct, and it sits pretty high, too.
Thanks for the picture. That's very close to where mine landed on the tube.
Lance
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Re: My first Mule :) M274A5 1968 SN 10797 REG #325091
Charles,muleman7 wrote:The bracket position should allow the rear steering rod to move easily between the front bell crank yoke and 2 wheel steer lock out.
I will measure the center line of the clevis hole to the tube bracket and post later today.
Align the rear tires with a slight tow in when in 2 wheel steer.
Set the telescoping tube to your steering wheel preference.
Then set the steering gear lock plate notch in line with the roll pin. That should be center position almost 1-1/2 turns from full left or right. If not then reposition the lock plate witness mark in line with the lever shaft witness mark. Use ratchet straps [steering wheel to rails] to keep the wheel from turning.
Then adjust the steering gear draglink assembly to allow the rear steering rod to lock into the tow bar draglink clevis and the 2 wheel steer bracket.
Then wedge the tow bar draglink assembly to the underside of the front bed support assembly so it will not move. Wooden wedges work great.
Then adjust the front tires with a slight tow in. A string works well. I use an 8' level as a straight edge and 4 unmounted wheels.
All your tie rod ends must be tight so there is no slop this can make setting tow in difficult.
I made a press plug that will tighten worn tie rod ends. For ease remove the whole assembly to press. If frozen you will need to disassemble and chase threads. The chamfer is rough because my drill press is my lathe.
I did my wife's daily driver about 2 months ago and the tie rod ends are still tight.
Yes, I planned on doing the alignment before welding the bracket in it's location. I have to get the steering box back together before the alignment can happen though. I had no idea you could tighten tie rod ends. That could come in very handy with hard to find parts. Mine currently all seem to be pretty solid so I'll just store that idea for the future.
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Re: My first Mule :) M274A5 1968 SN 10797 REG #325091
I will add one thing to Charles's alignment procedure; before I start, I like to remove each tie rod assembly, remove the ends and chase all the threads and run a tap through the sleeves. McMaster Carr has both right hand and left hand taps and dies for the 1/2-20 threads. Takes a little extra time, but makes the adjustment procedure so much easier. Be sure to use anti-seize when you put the ends back into the rods.
I use a tie rod fork in my air hammer to remove the ends, pops them right out!
I use a tie rod fork in my air hammer to remove the ends, pops them right out!
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Re: My first Mule :) M274A5 1968 SN 10797 REG #325091
I'm super happy with how the timing marks came out. Engine is almost ready to go back in. Just need to put the flywheel on and the clutch stuff and it goes back in.
You want the EXTRA FINE one.
You want the EXTRA FINE one.
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Re: My first Mule :) M274A5 1968 SN 10797 REG #325091
I have one of those Fortunately mine are already prepped and somewhat loose in the arms. Just need to get the steering box back together and then do the alignment.Chuck W. wrote:I will add one thing to Charles's alignment procedure; before I start, I like to remove each tie rod assembly, remove the ends and chase all the threads and run a tap through the sleeves. McMaster Carr has both right hand and left hand taps and dies for the 1/2-20 threads. Takes a little extra time, but makes the adjustment procedure so much easier. Be sure to use anti-seize when you put the ends back into the rods.
I use a tie rod fork in my air hammer to remove the ends, pops them right out!
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Re: My first Mule :) M274A5 1968 SN 10797 REG #325091
I will post a pic of a tie rod end cutaway it is the O&S sealed joint non greasable.
One pic of the location of the 2 WS Lockout bracket.
Two pis of John Emery's 2WS Lockout Brackets one is a clamp on and the other is weldable.
Cutaway of a Tie Rod End
C/L Location of the 2WS Lockout Clevis Hole. Close to 2-7/16" from Frame Tube Flange.
Johns Emerys 2 WS Lockout Brackets.
One pic of the location of the 2 WS Lockout bracket.
Two pis of John Emery's 2WS Lockout Brackets one is a clamp on and the other is weldable.
Cutaway of a Tie Rod End
C/L Location of the 2WS Lockout Clevis Hole. Close to 2-7/16" from Frame Tube Flange.
Johns Emerys 2 WS Lockout Brackets.
Mules are my passion
www.m274armymules.com
www.m274armymules.com
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Re: My first Mule :) M274A5 1968 SN 10797 REG #325091
John Emery really needs a website! Even if it only had pictures and you couldn't order from it. He'd sell a lot more stuff. He could just skip the E-commerce stuff and just put up a photo catalog. No one even knows this stuff is out there unless it's by word of mouth.
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Re: My first Mule :) M274A5 1968 SN 10797 REG #325091
Here is a tie rod press that I use on my mule. http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Tools-Damag ... Sw6n5XrKhH Real small, gets into tight places, and pops the tie rod end loose without damage.
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Re: My first Mule :) M274A5 1968 SN 10797 REG #325091
So I spent about 3 hours on Sunday Googling "rubber bellows, cable bellows, clutch bellows. throttle bellows, etc" I can't even remember all the search terms. I finally took a chance on this one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/382033220737?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
I hit the jackpot. It couldn't fit any better and it was cheap. A little grease on the balls on the cable and it slipped right on like it was made for it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/382033220737?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
I hit the jackpot. It couldn't fit any better and it was cheap. A little grease on the balls on the cable and it slipped right on like it was made for it.
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Re: My first Mule :) M274A5 1968 SN 10797 REG #325091
Today was steering box day.
I expected black oil/lube (dirty 90 wt) not this brown stuff. But over all it's in excellent condition inside. So new seals and gaskets and it's back together waiting on the RTV to set and then it'll get painted and installed.
I expected black oil/lube (dirty 90 wt) not this brown stuff. But over all it's in excellent condition inside. So new seals and gaskets and it's back together waiting on the RTV to set and then it'll get painted and installed.
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Re: My first Mule :) M274A5 1968 SN 10797 REG #325091
Got lots of stuff put back on today
I also tried something to seal the tie rod ends. They're felt washers from McMaster-Carr. https://www.mcmaster.com/#95571a845/=17bb3yc I'm very happy with how they're working. The only place they didn't work was on the rear steering arms. The taper is too big or deep or whatever and there just isn't enough room for them.
This is one and half washers. I cut it in half with a razor blade. It wasn't easy....
The rear steering arm.
I also tried something to seal the tie rod ends. They're felt washers from McMaster-Carr. https://www.mcmaster.com/#95571a845/=17bb3yc I'm very happy with how they're working. The only place they didn't work was on the rear steering arms. The taper is too big or deep or whatever and there just isn't enough room for them.
This is one and half washers. I cut it in half with a razor blade. It wasn't easy....
The rear steering arm.
Last edited by Lance-W on Mon Apr 24, 2017 4:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: My first Mule :) M274A5 1968 SN 10797 REG #325091
Lot's of progress today or at least it feels that way
The 2 wheel steer bracket is done. Rock solid, does not even resemble factory
And the engine is in....
The 2 wheel steer bracket is done. Rock solid, does not even resemble factory
And the engine is in....
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Re: My first Mule :) M274A5 1968 SN 10797 REG #325091
Lance
Good choice on the clamp for the rubber manifold to intake tube connector. Is the clamp a stainless wing clamp? Can you provide source and size? The worm drive clamps take up more space effecting the air flow to opposite cyl.
Good choice on the clamp for the rubber manifold to intake tube connector. Is the clamp a stainless wing clamp? Can you provide source and size? The worm drive clamps take up more space effecting the air flow to opposite cyl.
Mules are my passion
www.m274armymules.com
www.m274armymules.com
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