Transfer case leak at e-brake

[tnosal]

I recently replaced my transmission and transfer case and almost all is well. The good news is my Jeep runs great . The bad news is that I have a significant leak from my transfer case through the e-brake . My e-brake is the late style, internal e-brake. While the e-brake actually worked the first few days following the install, now it’s so oiled up that it doesn’t hold. I can live without the e-brake (I did before) but this leak has me concerned

Here are my questions:

1) What did I possibly screw up and can I fix this without removing the transfer case? I can see no other visible leaks
2) What parts do I probably need to order? I assume I may need to replace the output shaft seal. Anything else?
3) Any advice is welcome.

Thanks!

R,

Tim

[Gustl]

Probably something wrong with the output shaft seal. Did you replace the old one?

Talking about pos. AG in the link, Ron´s part site:
https://www.vintagejeeps.com/popup.aspx ... e/1970.jpg

or see here:


So if the output shaft seal is the reason, it should be possible to replace w/o removing the TC. Remove the handbrake unit and follow the steps in this guide:
http://1942willys.homestead.com/Sealtool.html

Good Luck

[Ben Dover]

You will have to remove the propeller shaft and the Output Shaft Flange along with the External Brake Drum. It will be much easier if you also remove the Backing Plate. It is also much easier if you remove the Rear Bearing Retainer so that you can just drive out the seal from the opposite side. Remember to install the new seal in as far as it will go. If you have the gasket for the seal install it first. If you have the Felt Dust Seal, it is installed before the Companion Flannge is installed. A smear of Permatex 3 between each shim on the retainer will be sufficient to seal them.
If you can raise the rear of the Jeep on blocks, it will not be necessary to ndrain the transfer.

[artificer]

It is a very common issue.
Did you check the seal recess is not damaged, seal the seal, torque the nut to about 180ft.lb. seal the spline & seal under the washer.
There are bad repro flanges around which are shorter than the original & no matter what you do they will leak, unless you fit a suitable shim in front of the flange.
RHS is an original LHS is new faulty repro flange.



It is possible to fit 2 seals back to back in this location & I always do this.

[tnosal]

To all:

Thank you for the responses. I did replace the seal with a new one and there is a also the chance I may have damaged something. I will drop the shaft and pull the e-brake once I have a new parts from Ron. I will order two seals and give Artificer's advice a shot.

Wow! That's a huge difference etween the repro and old flange.

Glad to hear that I may not need to pull the whole tranfer case

R

Tim

[artificer]

Yes what will happen with the 'new' faulty flanges is that you can tighten the nut & washer & they will bottom out on the spline [& get to torque] before the flange it tight. The flange will then move backwards & forwards & pump oil, when in motion.

[tamnalan]

Hey, before you do all that other stuff:

Perhaps it's leaking at the speedometer connection.

[tnosal]

Yes, I checked the speedo connection and that looks fine. I have really cleaned the t-case well so I can track the source of the leak and the only source I can find is by the e-brake. The good news is that I found no other leaks. The bad news is the one I have is fairly significant

Thanks for your post!

R

Tim

[Gustl]

It is possible to fit 2 seals back to back in this location & I always do this.

Great advice John! Thanks for sharing.

[Carsten]

...seal the spline & seal under the washer...

Very important advice!

I installed a perfect modern high quality neoprene output shaft seal a few years back, but it still leaked like yours through the e-brake! Oil runs along the splines of the shaft and flange, so you want to make sure you apply sealant in this place, before putting the flange on. And as John is saying, also a nice bead of sealant under the washer. I usually tighten them up to spec to make sure everything is seated, then unscrew the nut, remove the washer and apply a liberal amount around the end of the shaft, then torque it up again, and remove excess sealant being squished out!

Did the same on the pinion shaft seals on my axles, and they are dry (well, on the outside at least)!

[Ben Dover]

If you do choose to use a sealant, do not use Silicone, and be sure to install the Oil Seal all the way in until it stops.

[artificer]

be sure to install the Oil Seal all the way in until it stops.

What Joel is trying to tell you is that the seal/s should be installed squarely

[Ben Dover]

The seal will be automatically be square with the shaft when correctly installed. The TM specifies to drive the seal in until it bottoms. OEM installation includes the gasket, the Oil Seal and the Felt Dust Seal. Some of the available Transfer Case Seal Kits have these three components.

And Tim, is it possible that the seal has been installed wrong way to? Was it the correct part number?

[Gustl]

It is possible to fit 2 seals back to back in this location & I always do this.

John:
What I am trying to understand: 2 seals "back to back"?
The design of the seal wants the lip of the seal go toward the oil to avoid leaking oil through the seal, did I get that right?
So why back to back?

I would understand it this way:
Once the oil has passed the first (weak or damaged) seal, it needs to be stopped by the lip of the second seal.
Why not two times back to the outside and lips to the inside?

Pls let me understand!

[artificer]

Both seals are fitted on top of one another both with the lip to the oil [in English this is refered to as back to back]. I hope that is clearer now. JG.