How best to remove Rust and junk from engine water ports

[Ben Dover]

And one indication of a cracked head is steam and water drops from the exhaust. Skipping on start up and rust deposits in some of the sparkplugs is another indication.

[acmack]

Steam (for the first few minutes) and water drops from the exhaust are normal particularly on warm up. A blown head gasket or cracked head will cause a big steam output almost like a small pressure washer.The exhaust will smell slightly sweet if you've put in antifreeze. Your oil may be milky too.
Personally I'd check the oil first. If it's milky don't fire it up. Pull the head.

David

[Ben Dover]

Moisture seeping from around the bottom of the Intake/Exhaust manifold gasket when the engine is cold is also an indicator of a cracked head.

[Sleeve]

Some skinny ragged guy stealing tools out of the back of your truck in the parking lot is most likely a crack head.

[bboomerbootcamp]

All the points are well taken,
I know there is crack heads living by the shop its at, they have stolen every ounce of gas I've put in it.
The plan is, loop the upper and lower radiator hoses together, run a muratic acid through the motor allowing it to warm up, flush and shampoo rinse repeat a couple of times. If this begins the movement of water through the engine I will then fill it with Cascade dish detergent and run for a few days/hours or whatever. Then I plan to take the radiator out and have it gone through, and install and see if the old girl can make it through a Arizona summer. If there is not enough water flow through the engine I will go to plan B, pull and service.
I realize that there is always more than one way to skin a cat, I'm taking the minimalist aprouch, I do not have the time or willingness to go balls out on first blush. This truck has survived long before me and is sure to outlast me and my wallet.
If anyone would like to chime in on feedback, my shin is not thin

[2manytoys]

I would caution the acid rinse thru the motor. It might open up a problem. My 42 1/2 ton sat for 20plus years and did just about what you say your truck is doing. My engine guy told me to use Tide detergent and run till warm. Rinse very well. Leave the block and radiator with water and get it hot and continue flushing. Do this for the time it takes to get clear water. Repeat the tide and see if that clears it up. Chances are pockets that sat will loosen up and hopefully she will clear. Does your motor have a tube in the block for cooling? The 1/2 ton Dodge did and it was a bear to remove and replace. Make sure your thermo and rad are clean.
I can happily say i still commute with my 1/2 ton and she stays cool. Hope this helps.

[Ben Dover]

Chevrolet does not have a coolant Tube like in the Dodge L-Head WC Engines. The Radiator shops use stronger cleaners when flushing the cooling system than Tide Laundry Soap, and neutralize it afterwards.
I still have some of the US Army Issue 40's thru 60's Cooling System cleaner Kits. They are a two part package with a caustic chemical and neutralizer which is installed in the cooling system filled with fresh water and run for a period of time before being flushed and neutralized. It is potent stuff and it worked back then when these kits were issued to support units.

[bboomerbootcamp]

Ben, sign me up for a couple kits, if you plan to sell them.
PM me if you would.
Thanks,
Mark

[Ben Dover]

I'll take a look to see if they are still intact.

[bboomerbootcamp]

I'll take a look to see if they are still intact.

If they look good what do I got to loose

[Ben Dover]

[quote="artificer"]Looks like someone got caught with their pants down.
Again.[/quote]
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And just what is the point to your remark John Gibbons, and what does it contribute to helping the gentleman solve the overheating problem with his Chevrolet 4X4?

[bboomerbootcamp]

The only pants down that could perk my interests are some of those silicone Shielas down under
Do hope to cross that one off my bucket list some day.

[Ben Dover]

Check your email.

[Ben Dover]

It is GI Regulation Issue and used by Army support units. Each can has two parts, Cleaner, and Rust Inhibitor. The Rust Inhibitor is not necessary if Permanent Antifreeze is to be added after flushing. This is how the Army did it with their 40's-50's cooling systems.
The case was intact and still sealed from my DRMO days of the 60's.

[Ben Dover]

Your GI Issue Compound passed thru Memphis Terminal last nite.
Anyone wanting GI Issue Radiator Cleaner I have a limited supply.