I love my money grave

[dilvoy]

No I havent took it appart but for test reasons I just placed a washer between the bolt that hold the master cylinder…
Same issue…
You can bleed it on the connector but not very clean and controlled someone pushes the brake and I open the hose to bleed the air out the bleeder is on the same hight as the brake line connector…

OK, sounds good.
Is the seal that seals the master cylinder to the hydroboost in place? Maybe some crap went in between there during your fording trips and is keeping the master cylinder piston from returning sometimes.

[STUDENT-DRIVER]

Do you mean that little O-Ring????

[Ted Gates]

Is the vent line on the MC connected to your DWF System?

[dilvoy]

Do you mean that little O-Ring????

No that is not what I'm talking about. All three of my master cylinder assys that seem to look like your diagram do not use a seal there. They just have a cone shaped hole to recieve the rod from the Hydroboost. They do have a round O ring that surrounds the part of the master cylinder that goes into the hydroboost. The diagram that you show may not show the seal that I'm talking about, because it simplified the work of the artist or you have a dry land master cylinder that is not appoved for U Boat usage. Stop buying USAF HMMWV parts!

[Action]

I am still trying to figure out how air is supposed to get out of the calipers if you are bleeding from the lines????
just soak the bleed screws and replace them.

I have 4 bleed screws on each of my calipers, so I hope I can do the job easier. 2 on the top and 2 on the bottom.

And, here is the o-ring that George is talking about, # 11/ It is around the larger part of the master cylinder that fits into the hydroboost.



Jason

[STUDENT-DRIVER]

Okay here my progress…
First I checked the O-ring it‘s there but there is rost in the booster…
The vent line of the bosster has an open end and is not connected to the vent system.
I replaced the two front callipers removed all the old brake fluid from the lines with compressed air and refilled and bleed it with new purple BFS
Still the same issue.
My question: I have the heavy duty & expensive brake pads installed that are used on the ECV‘s these have a differten composition as the regular ones maybe they have more mettal in it which causes the sparks?
And yes the pads are still sticking…
Next will be the master cylinder…

[dilvoy]

I Think those pads are ceramic and not metallic if they are the ones like I have.

[dilvoy]

Been dazed and confused for so long it's not true
wanted a Hydroboost never bargained for you
lots of people talk and few of them know
soul of a Hydroboost was created below

Maybe someone gave your vehicle the evil eye.

Sorry but I couldn't resist.

[STUDENT-DRIVER]

It couldn‘t be any worse.
I installed this master cylinder it came with a booster that has blue booster to fotwell studs and blue studs to the master cylinder.
I bleeded all 4 calipers also the front left one.
And now only when I press the pedal all the way down it has enough power to stop the car from moving in D…
I also replaced the proportion valve…

[STUDENT-DRIVER]

Okay my dad helped me after I resigned.
We bleeded the master cylinder (this one it the third new one I installed on my truck I neever had to bleed them)
anyway… from the first video check it looks better. Now I only have sparks when I brake…
I‘ve to film it by day light to be sure…
I‘ll let you guys know if it‘s better…

[Action]

I was under my humvee and thought of you. I was gonna tell you to check the long brake line that runs down the left frame rail. If it had been smashed by something hitting it, the booster would push the fluid thru one way, but it wouldn't want to go back. This would result in the rear brakes sticking. Wouldn't it?

Jason

[AMTAK]

Do you have the rubber brake lines to the calipers? If you do, sometimes they get a little flap on the inside that will let the fluid only go one way. Like Jason was talking about on a steel line. Good Luck.