Picked up an M416 today, lighting, paint stripping question

[fromme]

Felt like this was solid enough to warrant bringing home, especially with the asking price. It's in really good shape except for the paint and the tires are dry rotted.
I've been reading around trying to figure out what is needed to wire it for 12V. This thing hasn't been used since it left military service, the guy bought it at an auction 15 years ago and it just sat unused. I figured out I can remove the plug at the junction box on the tongue and just make a new harness witha 4 plug end. I would just replace the bulbs in the lights, except looking at the lights on my trailer I'm not seeing that lense being big enough to be adequate. Not sure what's up there, I thought these should be the bigger composite lights. These are round and very small lenses. Any info on this?
This stinks because I'm not really keen on spend $80+ on some composite lights. I mean the trailer is a little rough as the paint goes, but I don't really want to add $5 trailer lights.

[199th MP]

those are the same lights i have on my 416, which is a 1967 cemsco. while i don't know the year the change to composite lights was made, according to my parts book they were installed on the 416A1. the data plate on the right rear of your trailer will tell you if you have a 416 or an A1 model. then you will know if the lights you have are the ones it came with. if you need more room inside for larger 12v bulbs, find a couple of covers that are used on the gamma goat tail lights, which will also give you more visible light to the rear, since they are a solid red lens with just a trim ring securing them to the body of the light.

[TacoDell]

those look to be the original set up... M series housings

I'd prefer these over the later plastic junk

go with the gamma goat lens repro replacement... they're much better for the street duty

think they're still available thru... http://www.midwestmilitary.net/m38a1p10.html (scroll down)

Change the 24v bulbs out for 12v

[fromme]

Perfect, than you very much for the link. I would like to be able to use the original housings, and not the plastic.
Because I can't find what I need, can anyone point out what number bulb I need to swap to? Or even the LED equivalent.

Also, the datat plate is pretty faded and hard to read. I dunno if I will be able to retrieve all the information off of it.

This is one of those things that I hate to strip the paint off and all the military markings and stenciling, but I think the paint is so far gone it is going to be necessary.

[fromme]

Thanks to those that have send me helpful information and direction to the parts I need.

So does anyone have a suggestion on how to go about removing the paint and repainting? I am considering a comination of paint stripper and wire wheel on my grinder, then using POR 15 on at least the floor, and maybe the whole thing and then going back and doing a camo pattern. I'd like to spend less than $200 on materials and paint/POR. Good or bad idea to POR-15 it?

[JB]

Your best bet is to get someone to sand blast it for you. I had had a couple done for @ $100 each. If you do prep work like remove data plates and the bed and reflectors. You still will have to deal with some pitting, otherwise you have labor intensive job in front of you. Nice find.

[Bill H.]

I second the sand blasting. You will be so much better off in the long run.

[fromme]

Do you all around here use POR15 to keep the rust away? I habe used it on jeep frames with success.

[JB]

I did not use POR but probably should have. You need to get rid of the old rust first. Good luck and take and post pics of your progress.

[Jim Sanders]

If it is CARC paint - commercial sandblasting is almost a necessity to get it off.

[Jough]

1. Get it sandblasted and primed, as others have said.
2. I'd take it apart first and use a correct primer.
3. Take the 24V bulbs out and go tothe store to get 12V equivalents.
4. Purchase some Packard connectors and just the trailer side 4 wire flat harness.
5. Figure out the wiring.
6. Get some Gamma goat red lens covers.

You can get new lights and main wire harnesses from various sources.

[Ben Hovis]

Fromme,
My 1943 Bantam had many areas that I felt primer was a little light weight for the protection I wanted so I used POR 15 for the worst areas and then used Rust Destroyer (red) on some of the less pitted areas ( Rust Destroyer is guaranteed for 5 years with exposure to daily salt water and no rusting).
The results was wonderful! My Bantam is parked in the garage so, I feel the paint should last for many many years. Then I primed and painted it.
Here are some pictures:
POR 15 on sides of trailer with new floor

body3.JPG (24.49 KiB) Viewed 755 times

Rust Destroyer on frame

Frameremoved11.JPG (31.69 KiB) Viewed 755 times

Combat rims POR 15 on inner areas

MT 14 por 152.JPG (35.3 KiB) Viewed 755 times

I also used POR 15 on the springs with good results.
There is more pictures on my website below.
Hope this helps,
Ben

[fromme]

Alright, I've been busy this week. Let me start by saying my standards may not be up to the standards of a lot of you regulars here. I am going to use this trailer, it will not be a museum piece or restored to exact original specs. I also don't want to have a lot of money in it in the end, but I want it to be right. So anyway I picked this up real cheap and I see it had potential. I sold my T3-C and used the funds to pay back what I spend on this M416, bought some new NDCC tires and tubes, POR15, some rust converter paint, shocks, and some Gama Goat lenses.
I had to free up the landing leg and lunette eye, repacked bearings and replaced hub seals. Wired in a 4 plug harness and switched to 12V lights. All is going nice. I scrubbed the poo out of the floor with a wire wheel and did the POR15 tonight. The underneath looked really good, it had some kind of nice corrosion coating on it and it looked good. The drain plugs are toast and I probably won't replace them because the military had already drilled several holes in the floor anyway. One day I might seal it up.

I am sand blasting it. I spot primed with the rust converter paint, and also used it on the tongue and casting.






New tires and I picked up some Khaki spray paint in flat. I tried it on the wheels and I think I will paint the whole trailer this color. Later if I want I can come back and do a camo job on it. I also need to get a tarp for it maybe. I am considering a folding tent to mount on top.





So that's where I'm at now. I think I will do a bed liner inside the tub in black.

[Steve Webb]

Look at what Pat Walker did for a tent on his trailer, very well thought out

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=100348&hilit=tent

[fromme]

Couple more of today's work. I'm getting burned out now. I'm just going to spray some bed liner in it over the top rail and call it good for a while.

Where's a good place to get a tarp made for this thing?






It isn't even close to perfect, but it is amazing what some sanding, POR15, spot priming, and a couple coats of paint will do.