SNL G506, Truck 1.5 Ton 4x4, unit 389946, 1 ea.

[pintelhook11over]

Well, I've been playing with my Engine block, pulled the rotating assembly out and took the block to work for "De-Rusting". I used a few carbide bits to re-open coolant passages in the top deck area...they were plugged "solid" with rust. Next, I used compressed air (while wearing a resiprator!) to clean the extreeme amounts of rust from inside the block that were accumulated in the water cooling jackets while the freeze plugs were out. I then soaked the water jackets with a light acid ( a toilet bowl cleaner!) to break the rust down while plugged with temporary rubber expansion plugs, USE CAUTION IF YOU TRY THIS, THE SOLUTION IS ACID!!! WEAR YOUR PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT!!! After three cleaning cycles while chipping, scratching and lightly tapping in the holes for the water jackets w/a screwdriver it "ate" the 1-2 inch thick rust deposits back down to the cast Iron. Finnaly the "Freeze" crack started to flow water/ acid out of the crack indicating most of the rust was removed from the lower sump of the water jacket.

Another item I "Cleaned" was my plugged Radiator. I used "Evaporust" for 3 days with moderate results while using a temporary 12VDC water recirculating pump, I tried the "Works" and it cleaned it in aprox. 1.5 hours before it removed "ALL" the rust to reveal the leaks in the core assembly. Before this radiator cleaning was performed, the works was tested on brass and copper to find little to no negative results on those types of metals. The leaks that were revealed were on the "Tubes", not the lead solder that attaches the tubes to the top/ bottom end tanks.

Next, I moved the block over to the wash rack and used water from the hose to "Flush" out the old rust and neutralized acid untill the water came out clear, remember if you are working with Machined surfaces to clean off water from machined surfaces! (they begin to rust in as little as 5 minutes!!!)

This "Works" solution was introduced to me by a Co-Worker to be used when cleaning rusted motorcyle tanks, I accquired it at Home Depot for $1.70 a Quart and used 1 gallon so far. Be sure to use it with good ventilation because it will "Foam and Smoke" while the chemical reaction occurs!!!

[rixm37]

Hi Pintlehook,
So what has been going on with your engine and the restoration?

Quick question. How do you install new seals like in the tranfercase? New seals are much thinner than originals . An exampe is in my tansfercase the original is .651 thick and the new one is only .375. Thanks for any ideas

[pintelhook11over]

Hello,

Rix37 I would try to play around with doubling up seals, possibly the oil seal on the inner area then a "thinner" wiper seal with the remaining bore surface, I was fortunate enough to get a seal kit from Sgt. Hancock. The T-case seals are discontinued, all the vendors I checked with in my neck of the woods couldn't get any seals with the "felt" built into them. I could have swore Sgt. hancock had found a SKF number like 503 or 563 which was the felt only...but that was years ago he dredged that up...

I was working on my T-case and Vacc wiper motors this weekend, here are the pic's:

[pintelhook11over]

If you have a T-case appart like this take your time and make sure it is clean, It is a fair amount of work to lower the T-case and flush the case assembly out. This was a "re-seal only" everything looked serviceable and felt tight, so it was not a "re-build" senario. I soaked this unit in a Hot tank for 2 days, Steamed it out with 250 degree water repeatedly and still got light debris out of the case...granted gravity keeps it at the bottom, it will find its way into every knook it can over 70 years. Also inspect the gears where they mesh into one another, if they have really chipped teeth, they may need replacement. Mine had seen better days but they were serviceable. I hung the T-case upside down with the Cherry picker, flushed it out with solvent and wiped it out with clean rags. I mounted my filler neck too.

Be sure to use your bolt retaining plates (if they were previously installed) , specialty lock wire bolts, fressh cotter pins and good quality safety wire. I have seen a previous T-case Crack/Failure at these bolts, Keep them tightened to proper specifications to prevent case cracking. I torqued them to 70 ft lbs and then rotatated them slightly clock wise or counter clock wise to allow the plates to fit over the heads of the lock plates. Use caution, I accidentally destroyed lock plates on a friends truck because they were covered in dirt/ grease, I did not know they were even installed...but let me tell ya they were pretty stubborn to get off with the locks still on there.

[wilfreeman]

I want one!

[rixm37]

Hello Pintlehook,
Your step by step photos are just fabulous. I hope you save them all up for a book on restoring a G506. I am going to see if I can machine a spacer to go behind the seal so that it sits flush with the outer edge of the t - case. So I will see how that idea works out. I really want to have an operating e-brake set up and having a good seal on the out put shaft is the first step.

[wilfreeman]

I agree - this is an awesome post! Since I am pretty sure that I am going to go the G506 route for my next HMV, I am loving this.

Thanks Pintlehook!

[pintelhook11over]

Well, this episode I was measuring components to see if I could put the best components into the good engine block of mine to make a reliably running engine out of the parts I have. Sadly, I could not pull it off, the #6 rod journal was scored beyond service due to a "loosened" piece of babbit from the upper half of the rod, the groove is too deep and will cause a stress point and could come back to haunt me later with a catastrophic failure...Anyway, after I found the bad news, I repaired my fuel tank mounting bracket and found another problem... a crack in the frame where the fuel tank bracket bolts on. I fixed them, but it slowed me down more than I thought it would.

[phillip.w.givens]

looking good im having to cut rivets on my frame to get it fixed

[rixm37]

Hey Pintlehook I love following your build. What is the insulation you are using for the gas tank ? I have my tank out while I work on the T case . I will be putting the correct tank mount in and have been wondering what would make a good insulation strip besides an old inner tube. Thanks.

[pintelhook11over]

HOO-RAH!!! We decommissioned the old "Comm" equipment that we had here at Home base! Back on line with the latest and greatest Communication gear...Sorry for the lag time but here it the "Foam/Insulator I used on my fuel tank straps, I got it at Home Depot for about $6.00 USD.

[pintelhook11over]

More pictures...

[Sgt. Hancock]

I sure do miss wrenching away at Alpha Co. The photos and progress are really nice. Your efforts are paying off Cody, keep up the great work. She'll be making smoke soon.

[bobc]

Why have you gone with black paint on the the levers and shifters inside, of all the vehicles that have gone through my place I've never seen black levers?

[pintelhook11over]

I just "Gues-stimated", I found Black paint all over the Chassis, on the trans, T-case, axles ect. The paint was under 70 year old grease build-up, under brackets and places that could not have been "Oversprayed"...The cab seemed to be painted separate before marrage to the chassis. There was no "O.D." overspray onto the frame under the cab. I figured that during an assembly line process the chassis would be painted as a whole with out the cab instandard General Motors Black. The E-brake handle w/rod and the Reverse lock out flipper w/rod was probably a zinc/tin coated metal, but budget and time did not allow this currently. I am most certain it would have been sprayed O.D. during its career, but no evidence of green or black was found on the levers or their pivot mount bolted to the side of the trans...