M718A1 Control Module is Dead! URGENT

[Rickf]

If all of these things are true you should have spark. If not then about the only thing I can think of is a carbon track on the coil tower, a cracked or bad rotor or a cracked distributor cap. Look very closely at The coil around the center post for anything that looks like a pencil line, that is a carbon track and will lead the spark to ground. Same with the rotor and especially the distributor cap. Make sure none of the wires going to the coil are getting pinched between the cap and the distributor. Have you pulled out a plug to see if you have spark? I will not be on as much as usuall due to a couple of large projects I have going on so bear with me.

Rick

[ramilolah]

Here are the results of what happened today ... I have removed the distributor cap to check everything as you said also I removed a plug to check for a spark ... I checked for cracks but I found nothing ... I have cleaned the distributor cap and returned it to the distributor ... I have started the car while cranking and suddenly I saw a spark and the car was running as if some magic happened ... The problem is that whenever I start tightening the screws for the distributor cap for some reason the car stops ... if I loosen the screws a little bit and the distributor cap is a little away the car will start ... so it may be something is happening here ... after several tries I managed to keep the engine running while trying to tighten all the screws but something horrible happened and I smell something burned from the distributor and the engine suddenly stopped ... Maaaaaan this is really tough and frustrating !!! I think you may have no answers at this stage because something may went wrong with the coil or the module again !!!!

[Rickf]

You have a wire pinched between the cap and the distributor body.

Rick

[muttguru]

Ram,
Rick is correct. you have trapped a wire. You must find the wire and make sure it is properly insulated so that it does not short out against the distrib or cap.
But, more important... you need to check this wiring diagram and make sure that your wires look like this.... and that the CLAMP correctly holds the wires in position. If you don't use the clamp, you will CERTAINLY have problems.

Oh, and by the way....we still want to see some photos of your vehicle !!!

Ken

[ramilolah]

Gentlemen ... You were right ... The capacitor wire is burned ... Check the attachment ... But still I do not know why, as per the diagram the capacitor wire should come from inside the coil tower and go to the coil poles through the clamp (which is the exact location where the wire burned)??? ... Ken, I wired all the wires exactly as shown in the diagram ... I hope that the coil is Ok unless otherwise the shortage of the capacitor wire did impact it somehow but I do not know ... Anyway, guys do you know how can I replace the capacitor wire? Is it an easy job or what? Thank you all for your help.

[muttguru]

do you know how can I replace the capacitor wire?

Ram,

here is what the capacitor+wire look like:-





You can try to cut off the old wire from the capacitor and solder a new wire in place. But you must be a good solderer to do this. Then if you complete this successfully, you need to cover the soldered part with "heat-shrink" material, so that there is no danger of a short.

As a TEMPORARY fix, you can make a new wire, with the loop terminal and make the wire long enough to go through the hole where the capacitor fits. You do not need the capacitor unless you have radio equipment in the vehicle. All you need to do is connect the end of your new wire to the incoming wire at the "Acorn" connector (the connector to the side of the distributor housing).
If you do this, remember to make sure that the wires or connections are properly insulated.... and it should be a TEMPORARY fix only !!!

I think that the burnt wire was trapped under your coil....and when you tightened the screws on the cap, it forced the coil down and it cut into the wire. You need to make sure that the wire stays away from the bottom of the coil.

Ken

[ramilolah]

Really thanks Ken ... I just have this quick question: Actually I do not have a radio equipment and I am not intending to have in the car; so can I just bypass the capacitor and consider your solution is a PERMENANT rather than TEMPORARY? Is the capacitor has a purpose other than the radio equipment that make you consider this solution a temporary solution?

Thanks

[muttguru]

Ram,

I looked at you message again and the photo you sent.
The end of the capacitor wire DOES NOT go into your coil...(that's what it looks like in your picture).

The loop end goes to the top of the coil (to the + side). The other end of the wire goes to the capacitor (the silver tube). The capacitor then fits into the outlet hole on the side of your distributor.... the "Acorn" connector then attaches to the outside of the outlet hole.

In other words, the power comes from the ignition switch, through a wire, to the Acorn connector, where it touches the spike at the end of the capacitor. The wire from the other end of the capacitor then goes directly to the + terminal on your coil. So the power goes from ignition-to-coil terminal.

Let me know if this makes sense.
Ken

[muttguru]

Really thanks Ken ... I just have this quick question: Actually I do not have a radio equipment and I am not intending to have in the car; so can I just bypass the capacitor and consider your solution is a PERMENANT rather than TEMPORARY? Is the capacitor has a purpose other than the radio equipment that make you consider this solution a temporary solution?

Ram,
yes. Remove the capacitor from the hole. Connect a new wire to the Acorn connector. Feed it through the hole at the side of the distributor (where the capacitor was). run the wire up the inside (next to the coil) and then attach it to the + terminal.
IMPORTANT. Make sure that you fill the area surrounding the wire (where it goes through the hole) withe silicone sealer or use a rubber grommet.
this will:-
1. Prevent water getting in
2. Ensure that ignition gases are drawn out of the distributor via the vent lines
3. Prevent the wire from rubbing and shorting where it enters the hole.
Ken

[ramilolah]

Really Ken cannot thank you enugh! I'll try that and let you know. Rick also thank you for your patience and help so far

[muttguru]

Really Ken cannot thank you enugh! I'll try that and let you know. Rick also thank you for your patience and help so far

And don't forget some photos for Rick and me
ken

[ramilolah]

Ken ... I will post some photos but the car will not look that attractive ... So, consider them the BEFORE photos and give me some time for a modification project that will change it completely ... Hopefully soon

[ramilolah]

Gentlemen ... Today I have welded the capacitor wire and completed all the distributer wiring as per the above ... I have turned On the ignition switch and started the engine and guess what? ..... IT IS ALIVE !!!! ... I decided to order a new capacitor rather than bypassing it so; I used the welded wire as per Ken advise temporary ... It was hard excersie to me because this is my first time ever in my life that I fix a car and especialy when it comes to electrical parts ... This couldn't happen without your patience and support so thank you guys!!

[Rickf]

Feels good to have done it yourself doesn't it? That is why I like what I do. I am a lousy teacher but if I can get someone to learn by doing it themselves it was well worth it. Patience and Procedure, that is what it is all about. If you jump around and throw parts at it without taking a logical approach you will be forever trying to find the problem.

[ramilolah]

That is true Rick ... Nothing is compared to that feeling.