1944 Ford GPW-231738 - "Potshot"
- hell-fire
- G-Major General
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Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
If you are still havine trouble with those reproduction spring hangers find someone with a 22mm drill bit and run that through them, by the way very good work on your Jeep.
John
Australia
Member VMVC #192
1942 Willys MB-BRT 135673 D.O.D. 4-16-42 Now 97% finished
Australia
Member VMVC #192
1942 Willys MB-BRT 135673 D.O.D. 4-16-42 Now 97% finished
- Boyso
- G-Colonel
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- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Thanks! I read through your restoration yesterday too, can you ship your Simon over here?
For the spring hanger, I used a half round file and sanded away until it fit, but it is very very tight. I don't think I have a drill bit this big, but I'll look for one next tine I go to the shops. Thanks!
For the spring hanger, I used a half round file and sanded away until it fit, but it is very very tight. I don't think I have a drill bit this big, but I'll look for one next tine I go to the shops. Thanks!
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Boyso
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- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Had my laser surgery on tuesday. Eyes were too tired/vision too blurry to do any work yesterday but I was able to do a bit of work today. I can't do any lifting or any hard labor so I'm kinda stuck with what's on the bench haha.
Bought a 22.3mm drill bit and managed to drill down the threads of the spring hangar, thanks for the tip! It was hard to keep it straight from the start and the front right one's thread got chewed a bit at the start. It's still engaging good so I think it'll be fine. Worst case I'll just change that threaded bushing with another one if it's unsatisfactory.
Installed the inner axle seals, chased all the threads to clean 'em, installed the oil slinger, the gasket and the shield and lastly the yoke/washer/nut. It's a bit tighter than when I was testing preload but I guess it's normal with the seal's resistance. I'll have to repaint the whole thing since the paint got scratched a bit on the jack stands.
Also remesured the gear backlash with the new Timken carrier bearing, it's at 0,006", so perfect Gear runout is at 0,002" so perfect also . No up and down play of the yoke.
Sorry for all the little updates hehe
https://youtu.be/fClsK_x-yBo
Now back to 'resting' (beer in the couch)
Bought a 22.3mm drill bit and managed to drill down the threads of the spring hangar, thanks for the tip! It was hard to keep it straight from the start and the front right one's thread got chewed a bit at the start. It's still engaging good so I think it'll be fine. Worst case I'll just change that threaded bushing with another one if it's unsatisfactory.
Installed the inner axle seals, chased all the threads to clean 'em, installed the oil slinger, the gasket and the shield and lastly the yoke/washer/nut. It's a bit tighter than when I was testing preload but I guess it's normal with the seal's resistance. I'll have to repaint the whole thing since the paint got scratched a bit on the jack stands.
Also remesured the gear backlash with the new Timken carrier bearing, it's at 0,006", so perfect Gear runout is at 0,002" so perfect also . No up and down play of the yoke.
Sorry for all the little updates hehe
https://youtu.be/fClsK_x-yBo
Now back to 'resting' (beer in the couch)
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Boyso
- G-Colonel
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:32 pm
- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Cleaned up the springs (quite a mix-match I have). Right now I think the back ones were the original ones but they had an extra leaf added. Presumably front leaves moved to the back. I'll keep it as is at the moment as funds are tight. Still got the rear right corner pack to do but it's too cold now to paint.
Cleaned up the front diff and started reassembly using bits I already have. Found some NOS Timken bearing cups on ebay, waiting on that too.
Put more bits on the chassis even though I'll probably need to dissassemble a few things down the road. Makes room on the shelves and makes me smile, so I guess it's good! haha
Monroe shocks needs to be replaced and those I have thrown away.
Also built a dolly for the body to move it around the shop when I need more room. No more busted knee caps. I need to buy a cherry picker, putting that body on the dolly was one heck of a challenge by myself.
Cleaned up the front diff and started reassembly using bits I already have. Found some NOS Timken bearing cups on ebay, waiting on that too.
Put more bits on the chassis even though I'll probably need to dissassemble a few things down the road. Makes room on the shelves and makes me smile, so I guess it's good! haha
Monroe shocks needs to be replaced and those I have thrown away.
Also built a dolly for the body to move it around the shop when I need more room. No more busted knee caps. I need to buy a cherry picker, putting that body on the dolly was one heck of a challenge by myself.
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- marco.verhaag
- Sergeant Major of the Gee
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Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Enjoying your progress boyso
Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
Ford GPW 218392 08-1944
- Boyso
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- Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:32 pm
- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Thanks Marco! Love your thread as well!
No updates for now, working on the front axle. Using an old used gearset that used to be in a rear diff, I am not getting a good pattern at the moment but I'm unsure if I need to check the drive or coast side of the gear set.
Next step is brakes, I need to go have the drums inspected, mesured and turned before I start buying parts.
No updates for now, working on the front axle. Using an old used gearset that used to be in a rear diff, I am not getting a good pattern at the moment but I'm unsure if I need to check the drive or coast side of the gear set.
Next step is brakes, I need to go have the drums inspected, mesured and turned before I start buying parts.
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Boyso
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- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:32 pm
- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Sorry for the lack of updates, I've started a new job a few months back that kept me busy.
The front axle has really been a pain in the rear, had a hard time getting a proper pinion depth, I think it's getting "OK" but not really happy with it. It was really good before I set the backlash but it seems like the proper backlash set the pinion depth/pattern a bit on the low side.
BEFORE setting backlash (around 0,015")
After, 0,007"
I think it's passable but I'll wait until I get the approval of someone more knowledgeable then me
I gotta order 2 more diff bolts (Ron only had 6 instead of 8 in stock last time i ordered), swap in the outer axle seals, change the knuckle shims, buy the knuckle bearings and cups and put everything back together. sadly, funds are tight at the moment so it'll probably be done slowly.
I've been reading John Gibbins' posts about brakes, that'll be the next big project to tackle.
The front axle has really been a pain in the rear, had a hard time getting a proper pinion depth, I think it's getting "OK" but not really happy with it. It was really good before I set the backlash but it seems like the proper backlash set the pinion depth/pattern a bit on the low side.
BEFORE setting backlash (around 0,015")
After, 0,007"
I think it's passable but I'll wait until I get the approval of someone more knowledgeable then me
I gotta order 2 more diff bolts (Ron only had 6 instead of 8 in stock last time i ordered), swap in the outer axle seals, change the knuckle shims, buy the knuckle bearings and cups and put everything back together. sadly, funds are tight at the moment so it'll probably be done slowly.
I've been reading John Gibbins' posts about brakes, that'll be the next big project to tackle.
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Boyso
- G-Colonel
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:32 pm
- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Hard to tell if it's getting better or worse, I think I'm starting to get sick of the yellow dye and the diffs in general
Edit, removed one pinion shim and tweaked the backlash.
I think I'll call it a day.
Edit, removed one pinion shim and tweaked the backlash.
I think I'll call it a day.
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Boyso
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- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:32 pm
- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
I think the pinion depth is OK now, it's been one heck of a challenge to complete. Since I'm at the workshop/garage/shed only on weekend, I'd never have time to finish and would forget what I had done/which way to adjust the following weekend and waste hours this way. Also always misreading between face and flank or toe and heel.
Now I just need to adjust the backlash, it's between 0,013 and 0,015. I say between because if I rotate the ring gear 180 degrees, the backlash changes +/- 0,002". Is it normal, within spec? gear runout is at 0,002"
Merry Christmas a few days late and happy new year!
Now I just need to adjust the backlash, it's between 0,013 and 0,015. I say between because if I rotate the ring gear 180 degrees, the backlash changes +/- 0,002". Is it normal, within spec? gear runout is at 0,002"
Merry Christmas a few days late and happy new year!
Last edited by Boyso on Wed Jan 18, 2017 7:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Boyso
- G-Colonel
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:32 pm
- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Turns out I was wrong before, mistaking top and root and toe and heel.
No matter what changes I'd do to the pinion height, I couldn't get the pattern off from the gear's toe. Thanks to JAB's help, we were able to discover that if I didn't put any preload on the pinion (with some end play too), I'd be able to get a pattern off from the toe. Picture I took is right after I found that out, so now the pinion is too far away from the centerline but at least there's improvment there. However, I cannot get a pattern if I have preload. I'me fairly confident I'm doing the preload properly. Following the manual, I started with 0,060" preload shims and add or remove shims until I'd get no end play and slight rolling resistance.
I also improved my sandblaster a bit, changed the light for a floodlight, and made a water filter for the vaccum and hooked that up. Much better!
No matter what changes I'd do to the pinion height, I couldn't get the pattern off from the gear's toe. Thanks to JAB's help, we were able to discover that if I didn't put any preload on the pinion (with some end play too), I'd be able to get a pattern off from the toe. Picture I took is right after I found that out, so now the pinion is too far away from the centerline but at least there's improvment there. However, I cannot get a pattern if I have preload. I'me fairly confident I'm doing the preload properly. Following the manual, I started with 0,060" preload shims and add or remove shims until I'd get no end play and slight rolling resistance.
I also improved my sandblaster a bit, changed the light for a floodlight, and made a water filter for the vaccum and hooked that up. Much better!
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Boyso
- G-Colonel
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:32 pm
- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
It's getting there! Pictures below is WITH preload, I'm getting a pattern now, pinion depth stack is at 0,045" which is much more than I was using before but it seems to be working now. Backlash is at 0,007".
Should not need many more shims to raise the pinion to get a centered pattern. This time I'll make sure to adjust preload as I go!
Should not need many more shims to raise the pinion to get a centered pattern. This time I'll make sure to adjust preload as I go!
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Boyso
- G-Colonel
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:32 pm
- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Got the missing parts from Ron, to replace the 2 last carrier bolts I needed (last time Ron only had 6 instock instead of 8 ). That whole small package seen in that photo was 300$ once here and with our currency Thankfully, everything fits perfect, couldn't be happier with the service. I just gotta ask for another raise!
Got the pattern on the front diff as good as I could get it. I think it's too used to get a better result while staying within specs. It's good enough I think, even though I hate thinking/saying that.
Preload is set, backlash is at 0,005". Replaced the yoke with one from Ron. It's not the same model as I had before but it the same specs. Put thread sealer on the bearing cap bolts, and gasket sealer under the oil seal. Also started setting the knuckles with new bearings and seals. Right now I've set the right one with 5lbs of tension. I sanded down the pits in the polished surface and filled the bigger pits with metal filler.
My new seal from Ron comes with the felt one piece seal and the round rubber thing. Both my packages (for both sides I mean) came with a small square cardboard piece. Any use for it?
Sadly it seems like the previous owner had swapped those seals since I didn't have the cast metal parts instead of the sheet metal ones.
Also kept sandblasting bolts, it's a slow process, I gotta degrease everything before bringing 'em in the sandblast cabinet. Any advice for protecting the threads? Should I coat them in Jigaloo (almost identical to WD40 but it doesn't dry) or something like anti-sease?
I'll hit them all with the bench grinder wire wheel, chase the threads and paint 'em.
Lastly my two spindles are slightly grooved, should that impact function?
EDIT :
Also ordered a cyclone type dust collector, the water trap isn't working as well as I hoped. Or too good. Water is bouncing and getting sucked up the shop vac. No idea how to dispose of the now dust-alu oxide filled water now so I'll change for a dry system for now.
Got the pattern on the front diff as good as I could get it. I think it's too used to get a better result while staying within specs. It's good enough I think, even though I hate thinking/saying that.
Preload is set, backlash is at 0,005". Replaced the yoke with one from Ron. It's not the same model as I had before but it the same specs. Put thread sealer on the bearing cap bolts, and gasket sealer under the oil seal. Also started setting the knuckles with new bearings and seals. Right now I've set the right one with 5lbs of tension. I sanded down the pits in the polished surface and filled the bigger pits with metal filler.
My new seal from Ron comes with the felt one piece seal and the round rubber thing. Both my packages (for both sides I mean) came with a small square cardboard piece. Any use for it?
Sadly it seems like the previous owner had swapped those seals since I didn't have the cast metal parts instead of the sheet metal ones.
Also kept sandblasting bolts, it's a slow process, I gotta degrease everything before bringing 'em in the sandblast cabinet. Any advice for protecting the threads? Should I coat them in Jigaloo (almost identical to WD40 but it doesn't dry) or something like anti-sease?
I'll hit them all with the bench grinder wire wheel, chase the threads and paint 'em.
Lastly my two spindles are slightly grooved, should that impact function?
EDIT :
Also ordered a cyclone type dust collector, the water trap isn't working as well as I hoped. Or too good. Water is bouncing and getting sucked up the shop vac. No idea how to dispose of the now dust-alu oxide filled water now so I'll change for a dry system for now.
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Boyso
- G-Colonel
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:32 pm
- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Are the knuckle seal bolts torqued down to a specific ft/lbs? I soaked the felt in oil (and made a mess). Did I torqued mine too much, the seal seems wavy.
Also there's a slight groove in the spindle. Is there a minimum diameter spec? Couldn't find anything in my manual.
Lastly, one of the stud holes in my left hand side knuckle is oversized, threads are 7/16NF20. Unfortunately I seem to have misplaced the said stud (as well as 2 others). Should I try to find a suitable stud or fix the hole somehow either by helicoil or maybe welding and re-drilling/tap
Anyway, enjoying working on it, cleaned up all the thread and all the bolts needed. It's finally starting to get warm enough to run outside to spray primer and run back inside to let it dry. Fun things
Also there's a slight groove in the spindle. Is there a minimum diameter spec? Couldn't find anything in my manual.
Lastly, one of the stud holes in my left hand side knuckle is oversized, threads are 7/16NF20. Unfortunately I seem to have misplaced the said stud (as well as 2 others). Should I try to find a suitable stud or fix the hole somehow either by helicoil or maybe welding and re-drilling/tap
Anyway, enjoying working on it, cleaned up all the thread and all the bolts needed. It's finally starting to get warm enough to run outside to spray primer and run back inside to let it dry. Fun things
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
- Boyso
- G-Colonel
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 2:32 pm
- Location: Quebec, Canada
Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
am not dead, just been pretty busy at work and all. Cleaned up a few things with the sandblaster. Broke two oil pans off my car, might've been just a tad too low
Finally we had a single day of nice weather, i've been waiting almost 5 weeks for a clear day on a weekend to paint. Also ordered 500$ worth of brake parts/direction parts from Ron. Got most of it within a week, I'm just missing the brake lines, those were shipped seperatly. Also went on holiday in Chicago, loved it!
For the bellcrank, did I position the seals properly? I'm missing the nut unfortunately, I think I must've missplaced it. I kept the shaft, theres no wear on it and no play. Here's how I positionned everything with the kit from ron from top to bottom.
Nut (missplaced)
Tappered washer
keyed washer
Seal oriented this way : / \
Needle bearing
empty space
Needle bearing
Seal oriented this way : \ /
Flat washer
I have enough parts to keep me busy for a while now.
Finally we had a single day of nice weather, i've been waiting almost 5 weeks for a clear day on a weekend to paint. Also ordered 500$ worth of brake parts/direction parts from Ron. Got most of it within a week, I'm just missing the brake lines, those were shipped seperatly. Also went on holiday in Chicago, loved it!
For the bellcrank, did I position the seals properly? I'm missing the nut unfortunately, I think I must've missplaced it. I kept the shaft, theres no wear on it and no play. Here's how I positionned everything with the kit from ron from top to bottom.
Nut (missplaced)
Tappered washer
keyed washer
Seal oriented this way : / \
Needle bearing
empty space
Needle bearing
Seal oriented this way : \ /
Flat washer
I have enough parts to keep me busy for a while now.
44 GPW 231738 10/23/1944
MVPA #36162
MVPA #36162
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Re: 1944 Ford GPW-231738
Hello Boyso,
Your Jeep project is looking great, and your determination and perseverance are an inspiration
to all !!
The jeep is coming together, and will be a great achievement !
I like the original markings on your dash, can you preserve that area when restored, or re-stencil them on the dash once complete ?
Best Regards,
Ray
Your Jeep project is looking great, and your determination and perseverance are an inspiration
to all !!
The jeep is coming together, and will be a great achievement !
I like the original markings on your dash, can you preserve that area when restored, or re-stencil them on the dash once complete ?
Best Regards,
Ray
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