1943 MB 213301

If you have an unrestored WWII jeep, we would like to see pictures, and hear your comments. NO EBAY or COMMERCIAL SALES.
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Beers
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Re: 1943 MB 213301

Post by Beers » Sat Jun 11, 2016 9:45 pm

Manifolds, carb, and exhaust installed

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1943 MB 213301 DOD 2-22-43


Beers
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Re: 1943 MB 213301

Post by Beers » Sat Jun 11, 2016 9:58 pm

MZ-4113 starter

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Purolator oil filter. Michael O'Connell put together some great stamps, I highly recommend, they're really helpful to add that detail. Picked up the oil lines from Jay (chasendeer), very nice set.

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You can also see one of the generator tags from Mike Wright.

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1943 MB 213301 DOD 2-22-43

Niblet
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Re: 1943 MB 213301

Post by Niblet » Sun Jun 12, 2016 12:27 am

Looks great! did you paint the manifold? what type of nuts did you use on the manifold? OEM or Brass?

What color OD are you using and did you paint the engine with a rattlecan or spray gun?
Thanks!
1945 Willys MB
DOD 3-10-45
HN 20691353
SN 424804
My Restoration thread <a href=http://g503.com/forums/viewtopi ... >Here</a>

Beers
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Re: 1943 MB 213301

Post by Beers » Sun Jun 12, 2016 7:16 am

Thanks Niblet! I painted the exhaust manifold with Eastwood's cast iron hi-temp paint, have had good luck in the past with it lasting a long time. No brass, just used steel nuts, with a stud kit from Ron and a little bit of Permatex anti-seize on the threads.

Shot the engine and intake manifold with 33070 (also from Ron). Used a spray gun, thinned with some Xylene (great stuff, tough to get in California but I have a few cans handy).
1943 MB 213301 DOD 2-22-43

Niblet
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Re: 1943 MB 213301

Post by Niblet » Sun Jun 12, 2016 12:01 pm

ok thanks for the info,,I will do the same
1945 Willys MB
DOD 3-10-45
HN 20691353
SN 424804
My Restoration thread <a href=http://g503.com/forums/viewtopi ... >Here</a>

Ralph
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Re: 1943 MB 213301

Post by Ralph » Sun Jun 12, 2016 2:10 pm

Paul good work-I like the exhaust clamp,pretty salty...I see you've gotten your oil filter set up the way you want...so on the intake manifold-did you find the original stud drillings? That's an odd situation to find...how was your oil press? Were you able to get it up to OpTemp? Able to idle it? Where were your leaks?
I like your oil line,it looks truly heavy duty.Congrats on the engine build.
Ralph

Beers
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Re: 1943 MB 21330

Post by Beers » Sun Jun 12, 2016 7:22 pm

Thanks Ralph - on the intake, I could make out the lines from the original holes so just center punched them and drilled. I then put the tap in the drill press to ensure alignment and cut the threads moving it by hand with some oil.

Oil pressure was good, once warmed up, was 45psi @ 2000 rpm and dropped to half that @ 1K. Ran pretty hot at first, over 200, didn't help that I had the timing too far advanced. Once I got it back down it ran under 180. Mild day with no load though.

As far as leaks, one of the oil lines wasn't tight enough and I removed the fuel pump a couple times during the build and took a shot that the gasket would make it - it didn't... Also, unfortunately, the oil plan is seeping at the plug flange (it's the riveted style). And the pan shows some dampness where the baffle is spot welded so looks like there is a crack there. I'll need to get a new pan eventually.
1943 MB 213301 DOD 2-22-43

Ralph
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Re: 1943 MB 213301

Post by Ralph » Sun Jun 12, 2016 7:54 pm

Thanks for the in-depth...almost like being there-very interesting...didn't mean to be nosy.As you said,the leaks are relatively minor.Nice work.
Ralph

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Re: 1943 MB 213301

Post by Beers » Sun Jul 03, 2016 8:26 pm

Picked up a new oil pan since the previous one was structurally leaking. Should have tested the old one with oil for a couple days to see if the flange leaked. The spot welds at the baffle also showed some dampness after a couple days so that's another place to look out for. Lesson learned, especially with this style of pan, the later ones with the integrated plug threads are more sound than these early ones are.

Ron didn't have any pans handy, but Brent Mullins had some NOS still available so picked up one from him. Still covered in Cosmoline, removed it with a putty knife, brush, and some gasoline (don't "flame" me here, but gas does work well on this stuff, just be sure to have proper ventilation...). A couple coats of rustoleum heavy rust primer and Ron"s 33070 and we're back in business -

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Shows the original soldering on the flange
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1943 MB 213301 DOD 2-22-43

Beers
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Re: 1943 MB 213301

Post by Beers » Wed Aug 24, 2016 7:10 pm

Work has been keeping me away lately so not as much time to work on the MB. I did get a chance to break away for a couple days and attend the MVPA convention here locally. Some really outstanding vehicles. Lots of great Dodge Trucks (I've always wanted to add a 1/2T or 3/4T Command Car to the garage, and Zeph - saw your in-progress WC16, was using that to start the "we need a Dodge" conversation with my wife... :D ). The MB 6x6 tug and the Bantam BRC were especially cool.

One thing I did get done was to pull back out the master cylinder. Even though a hone cleaned it up fairly nice, I live on the top of a ridge with steep roads going downhill all around, so I decided to have it resleeved for safety's sake. Used White Post Restorations in Virginia, who installed a stainless sleeve. Refilled with DOT5, pedal feels really good. I'll report back how well it brakes once I'm rolling again.

I also installed the engine stay cable. I've never been able to figure out exactly the order of the hardware used. It's even trickier since it's slightly different with Willys using a stamped Pal nut and Ford not. Lots of threads on these, here's a good one. You can see differences between Al B's GPW and Mark T.'s MZ Radio Jeep.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=88391&hilit=52909

TM 10-1186 Change 1 July 1, 1943, Master Parts List for Willys Trucks and Trailers, lists the following hardware under the Engine stay cable assembly:

52909 Stamped nut 3/8"-24 (Type B) (1 required)
5901 Nut 3/8"-24 (2 required)
52101 Washer 3/8" Plain (1 required)
5010 Lockwasher 3/8" (2 required)

TM 9-1803A, under engine installation p57 para 20b., talks about sliding the cable through the bracket on the engine rear plate and then through the front crossmember, and then installing a nut... This sounds like all the hardware is attached after the crossmember, but I can't see how mechanically this would make sense with the two lockwashers used (I wouldn't think a "locking" nut would use its own lockwasher between it and the first nut, would it?). Installing a nut on both sides of the bracket is what Mark T. did on his MZ radio jeep in the thread above, with a photo included.

Here's how I ended up installing it. Any comments? Am I missing something here with what TM 9-1803A says? Maybe I should post this on the technical forum.

(FYI - please ignore the F mark on the cable - it's what I have and it's a motor pool jeep right? :D Maybe I'll swap it out with someone who has an original Willys one someday, though this GPW one is in pretty rough shape...)

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1943 MB 213301 DOD 2-22-43

Ralph
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Re: 1943 MB 213301

Post by Ralph » Fri Aug 26, 2016 6:22 pm

The conventions are fun,they sort of rev you up and wear you out at the same time...your new sleeved MC will keep you from the fred flintstone speed reduction method now-take your time with the manual's brake adjustment(or use John's pdf) and you'll have a nice high pedal.
The engine stay cable hardware is a little odd...mine varies a little from yours in that I put the plain washer forward of the bracket.Looking at the both of them now I'd say yours is more logical as a force retainer.I was thinking at the time that the locking side needed the extra meat.Likely no real difference..I read the link...our clutches won't chatter now,eh?
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Ralph

Beers
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Re: 1943 MB 213301

Post by Beers » Sat Aug 27, 2016 7:20 am

That hardware is a bit odd Ralph, and too bad there's not a good photo or diagram in the TMs. I think I'm staying with the nuts on both sides of the crossmember bracket, till someone show evidence otherwise, just makes mechanical sense to me. The whole clutch-chatter discussion is interesting, don't know if this helps, but it sure can't hurt!

I'm hoping to finish up a few odds and ends on the chassis over the next week so I can start getting back to work on the tub. Will need to move some stuff around to make room.
1943 MB 213301 DOD 2-22-43

Beers
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Re: 1943 MB 213301

Post by Beers » Sun Oct 02, 2016 8:01 pm

Time to shift to the sheet metal so I put together a rotisserie for the tub. Lots of good examples here on the Gee, both in metal and wood.

I ended up picking up a 2nd engine stand from HF and some extra steel from a local supplier, specifically 56" of 2"x2" square stock and 16" of 3"x1.25" stock. Made as follows:

- removed the wheels from the two stands
- welded 48" of the 2x2 to the bottom to tie the two engine stands together
- cut the remaining 2x2 into two 4" pieces and welded onto the end of the rear base pieces on one of the stands as extensions, then drilled and installed the caster wheels onto those extensions
- cut the vertical risers on both of the stands and added an 8" piece of the 3x1.25 stock to each riser to raise the final height
- since the top piece angled slightly upward by original design (the part that holds the slide-in carrier that would bolt to the engine), I cut a tapered slot 7/8 of the way through the risers and using a hand sledge tapped it forward till the top piece was perfectly horizontal, then welded the cut back up (the slot was slightly wedge shaped, like you would cut if were chopping down a tree)
- used a couple pieces of 2"x.125" steel as cross braces, with some wood spacers. Bolted these through the grab handle holes on the rear panels and through two holes I drilled at the top oft the the gussets where they attach to the firewall (which I will weld up later)

Was really easy to put together.

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Now on to weld up the 20 extra holes (or 21-22 depending on how you count them) that Bubba added to the dash area. Going to take care of a few minor items before I send this off to the blaster.
1943 MB 213301 DOD 2-22-43

Ralph
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Re: 1943 MB 213301

Post by Ralph » Tue Oct 04, 2016 7:25 pm

Forward movement via HF... :D good work on what now seems an obvious rotisserie idea.When you install the harness-especially the dash & gauges-you can sit comfortably on a stool instead of,well-you know...the rear quarter & panel look pretty good in the pic.
Drive train ready now? I know you had it running a while back,guess you've cleared those few issues.Time now for the mig n dolly show.
Ralph

Beers
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Re: 1943 MB 213301

Post by Beers » Wed Oct 05, 2016 4:57 am

Drive train and chassis good to go. I bolted a length of 2x6 lumber to the MG mount as a perch so I can back it in and out of the garage. No high speed runs down the road though! At least not yet :D The PO used both bondo and fiberglass on the side panels at the tool indents and front portion so we'll see what I've got once all the gunk is removed.
1943 MB 213301 DOD 2-22-43


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