Zeph's '42 Ford GPW - (Restoration Started)

[ILikePlanesToo]

Interstitially, mine is not adjustable at all in the middle linkage.....?

Michael

[zepher11]

Interstitially, mine is not adjustable at all in the middle linkage.....?

Michael

Your photo is what I think is now the correct configuration. I ordered that rod and then cut it and reproduced the Bubba version. Darn, I thought I just received the wrong part again and moved on. I believe I saw a rod like that in box somewhere yesterday. I will do a litte search and see if I can find it. I think Bubba had the tube reversed as well to accomodate the configuration that was on it when I took it apart.

Thanks!

[thidisbogus]

Zeph,

Here are some photos I just took of the clutch rod.

[zepher11]

Rodney, that looks like the configuration I need. I had a brand new rod like that and ruined it! Oh well, maybe I can weld it back together if I didn't toss the other piece.

[ILikePlanesToo]

I was just looking over these photos and noted something different than what I have. I think Bubba might have changed some things when he ran the exhaust on the left side of my transmission.

What is the cable/rod with the jam nuts? I don't think I have that. There was a Bubba I-bolt in that bracket on mine. What is the purpose of that cable?

Michael

[zepher11]

I dug out my NOS generator and voltage regulators.



It appears that the voltage regulator is maybe an NOS WOF? I have a second regulator that is unopened in its original box shown below this one:



At least they are 6 volt:



The generator is 6 volt as well:



One problem is that it isn’t exactly like the 12 volt one I had. The 12 volt one is heavy, but the 6 volt one is like solid steel and weighs twice as much. I can’t believe how heavy that thing is. Neither can my finger:



When I went to test fit it, I soon realized that the mounting legs were wider than the original 12 volt generator I pulled off:


So it appears that this 6 volt generator possible isn’t for a WWII Jeep. So, as an ode to Bubba I started digging around to see how I could rectify the situation. I found a few brackets that I had in a box out back:



What caught my eye was that one of the generator brackets that bolts to the engine was longer and looked like it would make the 6 volt generator fit properly:



Now I don’t know which one is a real WWII ear bracket, the long one or the short one. Anyway, I had to make a couple of modifications so that it lined up with the other pulleys:





I did find this cool F marked bolt. There is no mistaking what manufacturer made this bolt:



I also noticed this spring and I was wondering about it when I saw a spot on the front engine mount. Does the spring go here?



Hopefully, I can get this to work temporarily as I sort out a proper 6 volt generator and mounting configuration when I get a WWII engine to install.

[zepher11]

I was just looking over these photos and noted something different than what I have. I think Bubba might have changed some things when he ran the exhaust on the left side of my transmission.

That is the cable/rod with the jam nuts? I don't think I have that. There was a Bubba I-bolt in that bracket on mine. What is the purpose of that cable?

Michael

I'm not sure what its purpose is, but it was installed on mine. It runs to the channel bracket that is riveted to the rear engine plate that is bolted to the back of the engine. Maybe someone will let us know.

[zepher11]

Zeph,

Here are some photos I just took of the clutch rod.

Rodney, man you Texans are tough! Working on your project bear footed.

[thidisbogus]

Zeph,

Yes I noticed my foot in that photo long after I posted it. I had run out there to take those pictures for you rather quickly!

Michael,

That rod is an Engine Stay Cable. It stabilizes your engine under high torque conditions. Here is what is written in a TM somewhere:
"The engine is prevented from moving forward on the rubber mounting, when a sudden stop is made, by the engine stay cable which is attached to the left side of the flywheel bellhousing in the front and to the frame cross member at the rear. The length of the cable is adjustable to provide correct tension through a threaded end mounting. Do not overtighten the cable. It should be adjusted to provide 1/2" up and down movement by thumb pressure."

I would put one on if you are missing it. One sudden stop and the cooling fan would probably hit the radiator if it wasn't for the cable holding it back

[zepher11]

Zeph,

Yes I noticed my foot in that photo long after I posted it. I had run out there to take those pictures for you rather quickly!

I figured. Just giving you a hard time!

[thidisbogus]

I know Zeph , I would bet you do indeed have a WOS regulator considering that french writing.

[zepher11]

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was a day of wisdom, it was a day of foolishness. Now that I am getting close to installing the engine, I needed to find some wheels and tires to get the chassis off the rolling stand I made for it. I was getting a little nervous about the need to get it off there as I never intended to add as many components to the chassis whilst on the stand.

I dug around for some wheels and tires and came up with some pretty rugged examples. Oh well, I drug them out and started installing them all the while thinking I’m adding more weight to the stand. After I installed the set of wheels and tires, I pulled the stand with the chassis on it out of the garage. I was looking at my engine crane when the stand gave way! Thankfully, the tires were on! Other than a nice bump on my knee, no damage. In the spirit of the upcoming London Olympics, I'd give it a "10" on dismount:



The above was not quite the money shot I was looking for. That right rear looks like it has been in combat. This was the one I was looking to snap:



Prior to the above debacle, I installed my generator on the engine. Earlier this week I had taken the generator to a local shop and had it tested. Even though it was fresh out of its NOS box, I just wanted to rule it out as causing an issue when I start trying to get the wiring completed. It tested fine. Now it’s off the hook. The generator shop also installed a bushing behind the pulley so it wouldn’t bottom out on the body when the pulley bolt was tightened. With that done, I cleaned it up and shot some paint on it. I sorted out the brackets and now everything is in line:



I read up in the TM about the water fording and how the spring is used on the generator bracket to allow the belt tension to be removed so that the fan blades wouldn’t dig into the water. This was to prevent the tossing of water over the top of the engine. I thought that was such a cool idea for the times. I wonder if any GI’s actually got out and did this before fording a creek? I’m sure they just hammered the throttle and figured they would be across before the engine died. I don’t know. I made a little sleeve for the generator bracket bolt, so that in the event I encounter any water running down the gutter in front of my house, I’m covered:





It works great. I might need to grind it down a little more, but I will wait until I get the engine running and fine tune it later.

I also changed the pilot bushing in the flywheel today. I can’t remember who on here mentioned to check the pilot bushing to the transmission shaft for fit and feel, but thank you! The bushing itself fit the transmission shaft fine before I installed it in the flywheel. After I installed it, I thought I would check it again. Low and behold, I couldn’t slip in on the transmission shaft! That would have been a pain to discover later. I reamed it out a little and it fits nice and snug now. I do have a question if anyone knows. Should I put a little grease in the pilot bushing for the transmission shaft? Or leave it as is? New bushing installed:




Fit and feel:



Now, the saddest part of the day. I thought I would install my new yoke on the front of the transfer case. I grabbed one of the castellated nuts that I had removed and begin the install. As I tightened the nut, it was going fine until it bottomed where I was going to get the torque on. Then it just spun. What? It was stripped! I pulled it off and looked at it:



I panicked and immediately checked the shaft. Two things: 1) The shaft has no hole for a cotter pin, and 2) the threads were fine. Hmmm. I then got to thinking that that nut was the one used on the rear shaft. I checked the rear shaft and the threads appeared fine. I found the original front nut and installed, with Loctite, and torqued without further incident:



I was still perplexed because I ruined the castellated nut for the rear output shaft! I wondered around aimlessly wondering what to do when I recalled I had another transfer case. Duh! Thankfully, the nut was already loose and I took it and tried to thread it on the rear output shaft of the transfer case. To my horror, all I can figure is that Bubba either cross threaded the nut on the shaft, or he used a nut with a more course thread. Here’s a comparison of the threads. It looks like the first 3/4" of the output shaft is coarse thread and the balance is fine thread. The output shaft is at the bottom in the photo:



In any event, I am unclear what to do at this point. I went to the hardware store and they have a 3/4" nut with a 16 thread count. I brought that home and it goes on fine for the first 1/4" and then gets too tight for me to thread on by hand. So, I am at the point that I either need to remove the transmission and transfer case, separate, and then completely disassemble the transfer case and start all over. If it were the front shaft I could most likely separate the transmission and transfer case and replace the shaft by removing the front bearing cap. Oh no, it has to be the rear shaft that requires complete disassembly of the transfer case. The bummer is that I tried to order this shaft from Ron, but he was out of stock. It actually measured out fine, so I went ahead and reused it. I’m not sure what I will do here. Thread the replacement nut on with Loctite and figure the shaft will need replacement the next time the nut is removed. Here is the new companion flange. I bought this one because the other one was pitted and rusted. This one came with a felt seal in it already. The new one for the front didn’t have one, so I made one:



The only good news is that the weather was again just barely over 100 degrees. The cooling trend continues, and it is quite pleasant working in the garage. This is one of the coolest summers I can remember around here. Not complaining! Tomorrow, I will get at it again and see if I can come up with a solution.

[Fat Albert]

Barely over a hundred?! Coolest summers?! Ugggg. I'd die. We have had a blazing summer so far... Temps reaching 110 in North Georgia! our cooling trend has us bck in the high nineties. Can't wait to get some more moderate temps.

Keep pressing on Zeph... Perserverence pays off!

[ILikePlanesToo]

Sorry about the stripped thread. What a bummer. I imagine I'm going to run into similar issues here and there.

Keep up the good work. It all looks great.

Michael

[The Raven]

100degrees cool!! Hell we hit that temp and things stop round here.