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Hanging pedal setup

Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 5:35 pm
by gunpilot
I'm in deep on my CJ restificaion and modernization project. I'm converting to a hanging brake pedal setup in my flat fender. I was close to going with Herm's dual reservoir modification but decided it would be about the same amount of effort to simply switch the frame mounted master cylinder to a firewall mount with a hanging brake pedal setup. Running a Chevy vortec V6 with a TH350 automatic transmission, so the clutch pedal is a non-issue.

My question is to the guys who have executed the conversion or seen it done in the past. I'm looking for suggestions on donor vehicles for a hanging or swinging brake pedal setup. A CJ5 or CJ7, maybe even a wrangler seems like a no-brainer, but I'm also entertaining a DJ5 postal jeep as a donor vehicle. I've just never seen a DJ5 in real life to make a mental comparison of whether it will work or not.

Any thoughts or suggestions? As always, thanks for all comments. The guys on this board usually come through with exactly the right answer.

thanks
gunpilot

Re: Hanging pedal setup

Posted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 6:55 pm
by Jeff L
The Jeep CJ's went to swing pedals in '72, as I'm sure the DJ postal Jeeps did also. This was the year they changed to AMC engines, and lengthened the frame and wheelbase to accomodate them. I don't know if these pedals will work, but it might be a good place to start.

Re: Hanging pedal setup

Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 12:17 pm
by Marty, SoCal
I have a hanging brake/clutch pedal bracket with pedals and brake switch in my pile of used parts that came from my '82 CJ-8. The clutch pedal is easily removed, and the brake pedal will still remain connected. I think I still have a good manual brake master cylinder, somewhere in the pile, too. I just looked at the bracket, it has the brake switch, too. The part is basically the same between a later '76+ CJ and a YJ, just that the YJ has smaller pedal pads and provisions for a hydraulic clutch master cylinder. $25 plus shipping, and it's yours!

Automatic brake pedal pads on '76+ CJ's and YJ's are wider than the corresponding stick shift versions, the one I have has the CJ small pedal pad which is bigger than a YJ small pad.

The brake bracket bolts to the firewall, and the steering column bolts to the rear end near the dash, triangulating it.

A SJ (Grand Wagoneer) column will bolt in place of a CJ column, and usually has tilt and an auto trans column shift. The shifter detent and indicator can be swapped with Chevy parts for a 700R4. The end of the spline is the same as late CJ. Later versions have the wiper and dimmer switches in them.

Hope this helps!

Re: Hanging pedal setup

Posted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 3:47 pm
by gunpilot
On the road right now. Consider the brake parts sold. I'll shoot you a pm or email later tomorrow to arrange settlement. Thanks much.

Re: Hanging pedal setup

Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 3:55 pm
by gunpilot
Marty,
I just sent you a PM regarding the brake setup.
thanks
Gunpilot

Re: Hanging pedal setup

Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 4:54 am
by Marty, SoCal
I still have to dig out the Master Cylinder and find a box. I'll reply to your PM once I find the Master, get it ready to go and figure out the weights, etc.

Re: Hanging pedal setup

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 3:53 pm
by toolman_ar
When I added my transdapt set up a long time ago, I also added a piece of steel plate cut out to fit inside the fire wall. This will reduce flex in the thin fire wall. Using the CJ7 pedel set up is the way I would go if doing this again. Good luck with your project...

toolman_ar

Re: Hanging pedal setup

Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 6:04 pm
by gunpilot
Thanks Toolman,
I've done practically exactly what you described above. I put a piece of 3/16" plate against the inside wall of the firewall. I used a mid to late 80's cj hanging pedal setup. I had to shorten the pedal arm because it just hung so low against the floor. It all works pretty well. Oh I also braced the master cylinder on the front side and likewise tied the pedal bracket to the dash panel where the steering column mounts. It all required careful measurements, but it's worth it.

Re: Hanging pedal setup

Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 6:47 am
by deputyvaughn
I used a hanging pedal setup from a Mazda b2200 for conversion on my 62 CJ5. Worked out great. Looking back I might have done better with a Toyota PU or Nissan set, but it is not a hard conversion and you can use the brake booster from the PU on the brake master cylinder move.

Scott

Re: Hanging pedal setup

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 5:31 am
by Kevin Lockwood
Hey guys ,
Not trying to steal the thread but thought I would ask a question here.
I have a 50CJ3A that the previous owner installed hanging pedals I think as a kit from transdapt. It is for brakes and hydraulic clutch. The problem I have is the m/cyl is a single reservoir and I would like to improve safety for mountain trails by adding a dual reservoir m/cyl. Any ideas on a replacement??
Thanks'

Re: Hanging pedal setup

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 6:28 am
by gunpilot
I don't have a precise recommendation, but probably something with a Master cylinder piston diameter that's close or the same as what you have now. Mounting space is a consideration too. But you might look at something for a drum brake CJ5; I don't know what year they switched to dual reservoirs, but I'd assume late sixties or so. I'm sure someone on this forum has the answer.

Re: Hanging pedal setup

Posted: Sun May 05, 2013 7:58 am
by Marty, SoCal
I have three of these hanging pedal setups from late model CJ's, one with a clutch pedal, I'm about ready to scrap, if anyone wants one, let me know!

Kevin,
Dual master cylinders came into mandatory use on cars in 1967. Most likely a conversion kit would have used a common Ford or Chevy Iron single master from the early 60's, which a dual cylinder for a '67 Mustang or '67 Nova /Chevelle etc. might be a pretty close match and relatively inexpensive, most have bores around 15/16" or 1". A local auto parts store is likely to have them in stock for you to compare the width of the mounting holes and the pedal rod length and eye diameter. If you have disc brakes, get one for a disc brake car, so that there is no residual valve for the front disc side. If you have four wheel discs, a late 60's Corvette master is the way to go.