Unimog 1300

1955 to 1980, Unimog 404, Wanted, For Sale, and Knowledge Base
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Stephen Davis
G-Staff Sergeant
G-Staff Sergeant
Posts: 61
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2007 1:09 am
Location: NEW ZEALAND

Unimog 1300

Post by Stephen Davis » Sat Mar 08, 2008 5:09 pm

Hellow MOGERS. NO one out their doing anything?. I had to replace a rear wheel bearing. I picked up the problem on the magnet drain plug during rutine maintance. Just little shiny bits. Decided to look further, once apart there was lots more metal, the failed bearing was the upper inner. It had half the metal missing on one ball only, all the others in the race were ok. I had the bearing cut open & inspected, the FAG Bearing people reconed it was a impact that caused it. I cannt see that as it is a slot filled bearing & if so other balls would be damaged also. It wasn't that bad to do either. I have had synthetic oil in the gearbox, diffs & reduction hubs for
50 000 k's. I replaced all the other bearings due to the metalthat went through them. Only the large lower outter one did I have to buy from Mercedes. I do BABY my truck though. Happy days.
UNIMOG DOWN UNDER
1953 one ton GS trailer
1961 Mighty Mite M422A1
1986 Unimog 1300L
1971 Serries Skippy Land Rover, Son's drive.

Bob Kenny
G-Sergeant
G-Sergeant
Posts: 48
Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2003 5:18 am
Location: Adelaide, Australia

u1300L

Post by Bob Kenny » Sun Mar 23, 2008 4:24 am

Hi Stephen As previously advised I was over in NZ in Feb and travelled around north island quite a bit with family. Compared with Aus your countryside is looking really good ours is mostly buggered with the drought!!! Since getting back I loaded one of my jeeps into the back of my U1300L and went to our annual military vehicle event in Corowa NSW.
A good trip, mog never missed a beat around 2300 kilometres at about 12mpg on home brew biodiesel so cant complain at 20 cents per litre. The only thing which is a bit worrying is when its in neutral and idling Im getting a rattling noise from the power take off clutch area which stops as soon as you depress the clutch. I first thought it might be a unijoint but I now dont think so and will have to investigate further as I think its getting worse but it looks like a bugger of a job to open up the area for inspection!!!! If youve got any thoughts please let me know, but when I get round to playing with it Ill let you know what I find.
Regards Bob Kenny

Stephen Davis
G-Staff Sergeant
G-Staff Sergeant
Posts: 61
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2007 1:09 am
Location: NEW ZEALAND

Post by Stephen Davis » Mon Mar 24, 2008 9:44 pm

Hi Bob, Whats home braw Diesel & how do you make it. The PTO housing comes off at the rear of the block with the cab forward, no biggy. I haven't checked but dose the drain plug have a maggnet in it to check for metal. Is the PTO engaged & spinnig the shaft will cause a noise. Forward is disengaged, back ingaged. We just got back from Auckland, Our club Easter Rally, AGM. Only 400 Km's. Not the biggest Rally we have had, Aucklanders, Go figger?. They don't even go to the Rally in their back yard. We all had a good time.
Look forward to hearing form you again.
Regards Stephen.
UNIMOG DOWN UNDER
1953 one ton GS trailer
1961 Mighty Mite M422A1
1986 Unimog 1300L
1971 Serries Skippy Land Rover, Son's drive.

Bob Kenny
G-Sergeant
G-Sergeant
Posts: 48
Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2003 5:18 am
Location: Adelaide, Australia

u1300L

Post by Bob Kenny » Wed Mar 26, 2008 3:58 am

Hi Stephen
Home brew biodiesel is one of my interests as I use a lot of diesel which in Aust is currently around $1.65 per litre however mine works out to about 25 cents per litre and I believe properly manufactured is a better fuel than the mineral diesel you buy! The reason that I say this is that if properly made it is a better lubricant and engines run a little cooler, the emissions are said to be around 70% more environmentally friendly,it certainly smells better as an emission or if you spill it on yourself,it is unlike mineral diesel a replacable sustainable fuel and perhape best of all its a lot cheaper. I regularly run it in the Unimog, Nissan Terrano II,Peugeot 504,Diesel powered Willys CJ3b,and two Land Rover Td5's all of which one cannot tell the difference exceptind for the nice smelling exhaust!
Biodiesel is made from vegetable oil, in my case from used oil collected from fish and chip shops. All vegetable oils are basically Triethane Glycerenes and in loose terms Rudolf Diesel designed his engine to run on peanut oil ethanes which are basically no different from any other vegeteble oil ethanes which is why it works so well. So to make the stuff, which is quite simple one has to go through a process of "transestherfication" which is to separate the ethane molecules from the glycerine molecule and to attach them to an alcohol molecule to form biodiesel and then dispose of the biproduct which is glycerine.
Whilst that all sound very complex it is really very simple to do, to the extent that if you can run a swimming pool making bio is no more difficult provided you built the right plant to do it. I have done inland Australian trips of 2500klm through station tracks etc. on nothing but bio that Id carried in long range tanks from home without ever buying fuel!
If you want to learn more simply GOOGLE biodiesel and youll come up with more methods to produce it than youll be able to handle,some of which are good and others notso but it may get your interest in which case Ill explain further.
Thanks for the info on the PTO but at this stage I havn't investigated further but will in the next month or so.
Regards Bob Kenny

Stephen Davis
G-Staff Sergeant
G-Staff Sergeant
Posts: 61
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2007 1:09 am
Location: NEW ZEALAND

Post by Stephen Davis » Fri Mar 28, 2008 1:08 am

Thanks Bob, I just read bio deisel till my eyes watered. I don't do enough Km,s a year to warant it, i beleave. Spot you later, all the best, over & out.
UNIMOG DOWN UNDER
1953 one ton GS trailer
1961 Mighty Mite M422A1
1986 Unimog 1300L
1971 Serries Skippy Land Rover, Son's drive.


Stephen Davis
G-Staff Sergeant
G-Staff Sergeant
Posts: 61
Joined: Sat Jul 14, 2007 1:09 am
Location: NEW ZEALAND

Re: Unimog 1300

Post by Stephen Davis » Thu Jun 04, 2009 2:06 am

Sorry Bob I havn't been on this forum for along time. Hope you havn't pulled that box apart.
The noise is the very big gears rattle around & this travles up those linkages into the cab.
Pull the reverse & PTO level arm pivots apart & thoroughly gease, they are dry & vibrate the noise.
I hope this finds you all well & this helps.
regards Stephen. :oops:
UNIMOG DOWN UNDER
1953 one ton GS trailer
1961 Mighty Mite M422A1
1986 Unimog 1300L
1971 Serries Skippy Land Rover, Son's drive.

Bob Kenny
G-Sergeant
G-Sergeant
Posts: 48
Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2003 5:18 am
Location: Adelaide, Australia

Re: Unimog 1300

Post by Bob Kenny » Thu Jun 04, 2009 3:24 am

Hi Stephen
Its about 12mths since I last posted, good thing you found your bearing before any colateral damage occurred.
Since my last post Ive completed my expedition back on the U1300L and been on a few trips up north and am having a great time.
The back is great with toilet,shower,200l fridge freezer,hotplate,grill,outside bbq,sat tv,kitchen area,range hood,340ltrs fresh water, radio,sleeps two and is very comfy,a really good set up.
Since getting back from my last trip Ive re-engined to a OM366 turbo motor and upsized tyres to 365x85R 20 which prove to be a really good balance with the extra horsepower with negligable change to overall speed and gearing. I find that now on local hills where Id drop back to 5th or 6th I can comfortably hold 7th gear and where I used to start rolling in 3rd, 4th gear is a breeze and 5th is quite OK. Overall the modifications have proved to be really great and the new engine runs even better on the biodiesel than the old OM352
Best Regards Bob Kenny

chuckhumprey
G-Civilian
Posts: 2
Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2010 12:02 am

Re: Unimog 1300

Post by chuckhumprey » Sun Oct 31, 2010 8:42 pm

Stephen Davis wrote:Hellow MOGERS. NO one out their doing anything?. I had to replace a rear wheel bearing. I picked up the problem on the magnet drain plug during rutine maintance. Just little shiny bits. Decided to look further, once apart there was lots more metal, the failed bearing was the upper inner. It had half the metal missing on one ball only, all the others in the race were ok. I had the bearing cut open & inspected, the FAG Bearing people reconed it was a impact that caused it. I cannt see that as it is a slot filled bearing & if so other balls would be damaged also. It wasn't that bad to do either. I have had synthetic oil in the gearbox, diffs & reduction hubs for
50 000 k's. I replaced all the other bearings due to the metal that went through them. Only the large lower outter one did I have to buy from Mercedes. I do BABY my truck though. Happy days.
My Uncle and I are working on his jeep,and we have this problem with his jeep wheels but it seems that you did not spent a lot of time dealing with this. How long did you fix this?

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