WTB, original mirror arm.

[Schneider]

Hi,
I'm looking for original and correct mirror arm for my MB.
Thanks

[42cargo]

Not to hijack your post, but it's always amazed me how hard these are to come by. I've been looking for a couple years. Had opportunities for some that were close, but never exact. Given its high utilitarian value, you would think this would have been one of the parts that would have stayed on the jeep over the years.

John

[Schneider]

BTT

[Chuck Lutz]

One problem with this is that AFAIK there is no DEFINITIVE post that indicates what that mirror assembly consists of for Ford or Willys, Early or Late jeeps.

1) Tub brackets: All these DO seem to be the same, top and bottom but some repops I saw some time ago were too BIG as if they were traced from an original rather than measured.
2) Pivot bracket: There are several of these and I have no idea for sure about which is which
3) Center Threaded bolt: a plain section of threaded rod or ?
4) Red Fibre washers: used on all mirrors AFAIK
5) Tongued washer: used on all mirrors AFAIK
6) Acorn nuts: Steel or brass, large or small, rounded or pointed?
7) Lower arm: Some have a drain hole, some do not. Some have reinforcing in the flattened end that attaches to the pivot bracket.
Length Adjuster: Some have a hex nut threaded onto the lower arm. Some have a round section of tube (collar) with a hex headed bolt. Some have a rounded collar with a hex headed nut. Some have the rounded collar with a hex headed/slotted nut.

That's just the easy stuff to spot! Mirrors and the arms got trashed as easy as they do in traffic today and were removed/replaced in the field with anything available. I think there are some definite Ford/Willys differences over time that we are not able to nail down well enough just yet.

[Joe Gopan]

GTB and GPW Arms have have the same features, I have one left in my spares. Will take pic sometime. The shape of the lower end where it bolts to the clamp makes it different from MB.

[Schneider]

Your opinion about Omix-ADA repro?
I need the arm only..I'm got all hardware original.

[Chuck Lutz]

If you have the hardware, go ahead with the repop arm....I can't tell from that pic if the lower half of the arm is too FAT where it is held by the pivot arm or not and I am not positive of the shape of each end of the upper/lower arms where they are flattened for mounting on the pivot arm and where the mirror is attached....but go for it....

1) Bead blast the acorn nuts (four of them) and paint them OD also.
2) Bead blast the NUT and the SCREW that hold the adjuster collar to adjust the length of the arm and paint them OD also.
3) I prefer a SQUARE headed SCREW or maybe a hex-head with a screwdriver SLOT in it.

(galvanized hardware will not hold paint and it chips off so blasting it to etch it so the primer and OD will stick to it better is the way to go!)

Like I said....many have been swapped out, parts mixed up and replacements made over the years and some of the drawings in the manuals are suspect in my opinion.

[Schneider]

Thanks Chuck.

[Schneider]

Still looking for...((

[Frank]

Still looking for...((

I might be able to help you. Let me know what style you are looking for.

[Schneider]

Hi Frank,
like this one
Thanks

[Schneider]

BTT

[majmacs]

Does anyone know the thread size for the square headed locking screw. I need to know if the one I have is correct or if the threaded hole has been galled or damaged, as the bolt does not seem to screw in more than one thread.

Patrick

3) I prefer a SQUARE headed SCREW or maybe a hex-head with a screwdriver SLOT in it.

(galvanized hardware will not hold paint and it chips off so blasting it to etch it so the primer and OD will stick to it better is the way to go!)

Like I said....many have been swapped out, parts mixed up and replacements made over the years and some of the drawings in the manuals are suspect in my opinion.

[Schneider]

No chance..)))

[Schneider]

BTT