My first Mule :) M274A5 1968 SN 10797 REG #325091

[Lance-W]

I hate screw clamps they always strip out!!


The intake clamps. https://www.mcmaster.com/#52545k86/=17bulac




The air horn clamps. https://www.mcmaster.com/#52545k89/=17bujcs



I use these to crimp them. There's probably a special tool but these work perfect.


Crimped and un-crimped

[Auto Shop teacher]

Pretty slick installation Lance. Here is the type of crimping pliers we use when replacing CV Joint boot clamps, leaves a real clean crimp with no bulge. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ear-Type-CV-Joi ... Sw~CFY7tN2

There are much better quality, but I linked this tool because it showed the pictures of the crimps.

[Lance-W]

Pretty slick installation Lance. Here is the type of crimping pliers we use when replacing CV Joint boot clamps, leaves a real clean crimp with no bulge. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ear-Type-CV-Joi ... Sw~CFY7tN2

There are much better quality, but I linked this tool because it showed the pictures of the crimps.

Those are pretty slick and not that pricey. Like I need another tool

[Lance-W]

Just a couple of pictures. I was wondering if you could get a zirk fitting in the side of a factory tie rod end. You can clearly see where this one is used and the gap on the bottom between the ball and the housing. The yellow is the weld that's holding the whole thing together so I could mill the side off. As far as getting the zirk in maybe if you’re real careful with a drill and use a bottom tap. I don't think the zirk could ever touch the ball. the cavity in there has some kind of fiber in it or that's what it looks like and cuts like it.

Thank you to Charles (Muleman7) for the tie rods ends to cut

[Lance-W]

Some more progress this week.

What you see in this picture is 9 bags of sand worth of blasting. All the old faded/compromised paint is gone and the only green you see here is what came from the factory roughed up and ready for the epoxy primer.




This showed up on the right rear corner of the bed. I had no idea it was there under all the paint.




I decided to use rivets to replace the ones that rotted out. So then I had to figure out how to buck them. I made the part for the domed head first and figured I'd just smash the other side with a punch and a hammer and then standing around waiting for primer to dry yesterday I got the idea of using the air hammer and making an anvil? for it. Worked perfect. Merely held the part that reinforced the head in my hand and squeezed the trigger on the air hammer on the other side.














It's green again or at least the bottom is. I'll turn it over tomorrow and start working on the top. Unfortunately the top needs some body work. My least favorite part of this whole journey. I call it bodywork HELL!

[Lance-W]

Time for the top side. Boy this thing has seen some abuse in it's lifetime.



All the circled spots are where there was body filler from the previous resto. They put the filler directly over the original green paint which is a no-no. It needs to be attached to the metal or in this case to the epoxy primer. So it all gets ground out. The circled spots are where I found dents or filler on the first pass (there will be many more).







Painting something one color and a shiny color shows all the flaws. Thing this has been beat to SHEET in it's life. I have lots of sanding to do

[Lance-W]

Does anyone know if the 4 small holes circled in blue are supposed to be there? They're on the front passenger side in front of the other 4 holes I know are supposed to be there.

[muleman7]

Lance

According to TM 9-2320-246-34P Dec 1969 pages 120 and 121

You should have: 2 plates on the bed surface

1 instruction plate for shifting and warning caution about towing
2 warning engine valve positions.

Plus 2 more plates 1 identification data plate on the edge of the mule bed drivers side and 1 ignition instruction plate at the drivers heals

My observations

1 identification data plate on the magneto 1 identification data plate on the governor 1 identification data plate on the top engine cowl and some times there will be a rebuild plate for the engine. Also some of the transmissions will have a rebuild plate with Deco Grand as the contractor. Some mules will have a wired metal tag with a number on the DG housing top bolt for the steering gear cover.

[abbylind]

Dr Lance
Mine (an A2) Shows those 4 holes are a warning plate to turn the valves closed when turning the vehicle on its side...

Hope that helps

[Lance-W]

Still Sanding !!!!!!!!!!

I think at this point all the dents and dings are gone. There's at least two more coats of primer to go. One to cut it and make sure I didn't miss anything and one to finish sand. Two more coats....somehow that optimism never seems to work out.

[murano3]

With regards the holes - someone filled them on mine then fitted the plate that was supposed to us them the other side of the gear instruction

[jeeptj1]

Lance i have that same number (10945098) etched into my side rail. Serial number 10225 reg#324159 john jr

[Chuck W.]

John Jr., are you positive about your serial number/registration numbers? 10225/324159 does not fit into the sequence in my database. Registration number for that serial number should be something like 3245XX. Thanks!

[jeeptj1]

Chuck, sorry. You are correct.i read the number off the new tag which is an error. The original tag does start with 3245 but the rest of it is banged up and cant tell. John jr

[Lance-W]

With regards the holes - someone filled them on mine then fitted the plate that was supposed to us them the other side of the gear instruction

Thank you for the pictures. The tags are now ordered from John Emery.