Drove my mule today.....questions

[Bowtie70ss]

Today was the first time my Mule was driven in probably 10 years. I took the engine out and cleaned everything installed new points, fuel pump, and carb. Long story short I got it going and took it to Haspin Acres Steel Soldiers fall rally and I had a blast. I drove it all over and man that thing will go anywhere. It seemed like it became increasingly hard to start. It cranks forever and finally hits. I pressed the gas sometimes, other times I did not. I tried the choke. WHen I was trying to start it to leave for home it backfired and blew up my muffler lol. What's going on here? ANy ideas? I guess I need to go over the engine TM and set everything. Once it was started the idle was a littel goofy but it ran perfect.


On a side note, how would I tell if my Mule is a original TOW mule? It is from 101st Airborne HHQ 327

[Chuck W.]

Sounds like it's running too rich. See TM 5-2805-213-14 page 23 for correct idle mixture adjustment.

how would I tell if my Mule is a original TOW mule

I don't know of a good way to tell, the TOW mounts were held to the deck by clips and the steering brace pintle, so no extra holes were required like on a 106 mule.

[Bowtie70ss]

There are a bunch of holes, but I believe the PO believed in halfassery rather than even attempting to do stuff correctly.

[Chuck W.]

I believe the PO believed in halfassery

His name is Bubba, and we see a lot of his work on this forum

Check TM 9-1425-470-12 and TM 9-1425-470-34 for info and drawings showing how the TOW mounts attached to the mule, might give you an idea where to look for wear marks, etc. If I remember correctly, HQ vehicles rarely had attached armaments.

[Auto Shop teacher]

There are a bunch of holes, but I believe the PO believed in halfassery rather than even attempting to do stuff correctly.

I tell my students in Auto Shop, 'FULL ASS or NO ASS, no HALF-ASSED work will be tolerated. Either do it right, or don't touch it and mess it up for someone else to have to fix after you....

[Bowtie70ss]

I checked the spark when i was trying to start it. I used a spark checker tool grounded to the magneto. No spark at first but after cranking for a 3 or 4 seconds it started sparking. I hookup the plug wire back up and it ran fine. I am thinking I have a intermittent spark issue with the magneto. Once it is running it runs great but it cranks forever to get it going. I wish there were a way to hook 12v up to the coil and eliminate the magneto. I did install new points and condense
r but did not totally disassemble the magneto and clean everything. Is that my next step??

[Auto Shop teacher]

With anything electrical you need clean, tight (not over tight), connections Generically speaking, I would go back into the magneto and double check my point gap and wire connections. You might disconnect the kill switch wire connector at the magneto to eliminate that as a possibility. You should have spark at the first revolution of the crankshaft if everything is working right.

If all else fails, use an ohm meter to verify there is 0 ohms resistance with the points closed. Lastly if all else fails, try putting your old condenser back in and make sure it is well grounded. I used to have 1 or 2 bad ones right out of the box (out of thousands) back in the day. It took HOURS to find that problem.....

[Bowtie70ss]

I am going to pull the mag and check everything. It has to be something to do with that. Its a shame that replacements are unavailable. I need a extra one I guess. I still have the old condenser and I will check all the connections. It fired on the first rev when i first got it running and it hits intermittently until it starts now. If I crank it a long time it will backfire every once in a while, I already had to weld the end back on the muffler.