Chuck W. wrote:Lance, I am not sure about the position of the bracket on that photo, but here's a different one that I know is correct, and it sits pretty high, too.
muleman7 wrote:The bracket position should allow the rear steering rod to move easily between the front bell crank yoke and 2 wheel steer lock out.
I will measure the center line of the clevis hole to the tube bracket and post later today.
Align the rear tires with a slight tow in when in 2 wheel steer.
Set the telescoping tube to your steering wheel preference.
Then set the steering gear lock plate notch in line with the roll pin. That should be center position almost 1-1/2 turns from full left or right. If not then reposition the lock plate witness mark in line with the lever shaft witness mark. Use ratchet straps [steering wheel to rails] to keep the wheel from turning.
Then adjust the steering gear draglink assembly to allow the rear steering rod to lock into the tow bar draglink clevis and the 2 wheel steer bracket.
Then wedge the tow bar draglink assembly to the underside of the front bed support assembly so it will not move. Wooden wedges work great.
Then adjust the front tires with a slight tow in. A string works well. I use an 8' level as a straight edge and 4 unmounted wheels.
All your tie rod ends must be tight so there is no slop this can make setting tow in difficult.
I made a press plug that will tighten worn tie rod ends. For ease remove the whole assembly to press. If frozen you will need to disassemble and chase threads. The chamfer is rough because my drill press is my lathe.
I did my wife's daily driver about 2 months ago and the tie rod ends are still tight.
Chuck W. wrote:I will add one thing to Charles's alignment procedure; before I start, I like to remove each tie rod assembly, remove the ends and chase all the threads and run a tap through the sleeves. McMaster Carr has both right hand and left hand taps and dies for the 1/2-20 threads. Takes a little extra time, but makes the adjustment procedure so much easier. Be sure to use anti-seize when you put the ends back into the rods.
I use a tie rod fork in my air hammer to remove the ends, pops them right out!
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