My first question is about what steering wheels are correct for early MBs and GPWs: It is my impression that the black rubber Sheller wheel is correct for 1941 and most of 1942 MBs, until late in the year when the transition to the OD green Sheller wheel came about. Did this green Sheller wheel continue into early '43? What about '42 GPWs? Did they ever use the green Sheller wheel?
Next is a strictly slat grill question about the repro bodies coming out of Manila. Are they good quality? Do they fit? What about the toe board gussets? Are they the original type, or do I have to cut those off the old body and weld them on the new one? What about body handle holes, brackets, etc.? What about firewall holes, seat mounting holes, etc.?
Two questions, black & OD steering wheels and repro slat grill bodies.
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- G-Staff Sergeant
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Two questions, black & OD steering wheels and repro slat grill bodies.
Frank Asturias, SFC U.S. Army (ret) MOS 88L40, MVPA 5519
2 '41 MBs, one wrecked
2 '42 MBs
1 "42 GPW
1 '43 MB
3 '43 GPWs
2 '41 MBs, one wrecked
2 '42 MBs
1 "42 GPW
1 '43 MB
3 '43 GPWs
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- G-Brigadier General
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Re: Two questions, black & OD steering wheels and repro slat grill bodies.
Frank, my steering wheel on my Slat Grille (119696) 13 Feb 1942, is the OD green type, original one on the jeep. It is Canadian contract though.
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Re: Two questions, black & OD steering wheels and repro slat grill bodies.
Jeepdraw has great information on steering wheels for Slats.
http://jeepdraw.com/PART_COLOURS.htm
Roger
http://jeepdraw.com/PART_COLOURS.htm
Roger
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Re: Two questions, black & OD steering wheels and repro slat grill bodies.
As regards the second part of your post ??
The bodies are about as good as you can get !!!
There same gauge and for the price good value overall.
If your body is totally shot ? it`s the most economical way
The primer paint now used is very good but you will need to sand it down well for a good key for your final color..
I suggest you drill all the holes first and trial fit the components, top bows and brackets come to mind here !!
All captive caged nuts are present but my advice here is to run a thread tap down them due to the good primer coat that get`s everywhere !!.
Touch up any drilled holes with primer.
Painting is best done with the body off so you can turn it upside down or on it`s side to get paint in all the nooks and crannies especially up and behind the dash that`s not easy, you can leave the sides etc till it`s on the chassis, but paint by all your drilled holes so when you fit things like handles etc there`s paint behind them.
And they do look good it you take your time.
Do they fit ?
Yes they do but just remember your slat chassis has been about and no doubt been abused too.
So it will need a bit of playing about moving the body around before it fits.
reports of brake and clutch pedal holes out of alignment may only be due to bent pedal arms they are forged and can be straightened TO align with the floor holes before you start altering those.same holes.
Only issues I know about is the original cowl was a three piece affair by the hood hinge. not sure if that has been addressed since with the replacement slat body
Maybe not as it` would not have been a high production body so maybe old stock is still around.
my advice there is have a chat with Ron or Scott they will know.
Toe gussets that I cannot answer but even if they were I`d still want to put the original on if only for the body number !!
All Bolt holes you will need to drill so don`t trash your old body you`ll need that for reference.
But from memory firewall holes as well as Dash guage holes etc are pre-drilled
You will need to drill seat mounting holes too
If you opt for the complete kit you may need to drill the holes for the rad shouds on the inner fenders as well as the hood air deflecter.
Geoff Bull
The bodies are about as good as you can get !!!
There same gauge and for the price good value overall.
If your body is totally shot ? it`s the most economical way
The primer paint now used is very good but you will need to sand it down well for a good key for your final color..
I suggest you drill all the holes first and trial fit the components, top bows and brackets come to mind here !!
All captive caged nuts are present but my advice here is to run a thread tap down them due to the good primer coat that get`s everywhere !!.
Touch up any drilled holes with primer.
Painting is best done with the body off so you can turn it upside down or on it`s side to get paint in all the nooks and crannies especially up and behind the dash that`s not easy, you can leave the sides etc till it`s on the chassis, but paint by all your drilled holes so when you fit things like handles etc there`s paint behind them.
And they do look good it you take your time.
Do they fit ?
Yes they do but just remember your slat chassis has been about and no doubt been abused too.
So it will need a bit of playing about moving the body around before it fits.
reports of brake and clutch pedal holes out of alignment may only be due to bent pedal arms they are forged and can be straightened TO align with the floor holes before you start altering those.same holes.
Only issues I know about is the original cowl was a three piece affair by the hood hinge. not sure if that has been addressed since with the replacement slat body
Maybe not as it` would not have been a high production body so maybe old stock is still around.
my advice there is have a chat with Ron or Scott they will know.
Toe gussets that I cannot answer but even if they were I`d still want to put the original on if only for the body number !!
All Bolt holes you will need to drill so don`t trash your old body you`ll need that for reference.
But from memory firewall holes as well as Dash guage holes etc are pre-drilled
You will need to drill seat mounting holes too
If you opt for the complete kit you may need to drill the holes for the rad shouds on the inner fenders as well as the hood air deflecter.
Geoff Bull
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