Engine Question

Nov. 18, 1941 - MB100001 thru Mar. 6, 1942 - MB125809 NO EBAY or COMMERCIAL SALES.

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Engine Question

Postby Billw » Thu Aug 02, 2012 10:07 pm

Hi everyone. Been awhile. This past winter I pulled the engine and trans/tranf case. the seals were all leaking pretty baddly. Lots of help here re-building the transmission too - thanks.
OK - I also replaced the clutch at the same time.

Questions - Driving the jeep this summer, I hear a "Puff" coming from the engine every now and then (regular intervals - like every 5 - 10 minutes or so). If you watch a helicopter in the air, every now and then there is a puff of smoke from it. This is how I think of this puff - although it is not smoke - I can just hear it. thoughts?

OK second question - Clutch -
I replaced the clutch and throw out bearing. It shifts fine and there is no chatter nor the shakey thing befor I changed it, but there is a kind of churping (sort of) noise just as I let the clutch out, then it stops. Thoughts on what I might have done wrong? and should I be concerned?

Right now I have the radiator out. It is all plugged up I think. Temp gets to 210 on a 30 minute ride - no thermostat either. New water pump. going to the radiator shop in the AM for boiling! Always seems to be something.

Thanks //Bill

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Re: Engine Question

Postby echelon1 » Fri Aug 03, 2012 2:15 am

Billw wrote:Hi everyone. Been awhile. This past winter I pulled the engine and trans/tranf case. the seals were all leaking pretty baddly. Lots of help here re-building the transmission too - thanks.
OK - I also replaced the clutch at the same time.

Questions - Driving the jeep this summer, I hear a "Puff" coming from the engine every now and then (regular intervals - like every 5 - 10 minutes or so). If you watch a helicopter in the air, every now and then there is a puff of smoke from it. This is how I think of this puff - although it is not smoke - I can just hear it. thoughts? can be a number of things. If it only occurs every 5 ùinutes...it is not a mechanical fault.
Most likelly a very tiny air leak somewhere in the exhaust manifold, or the carb that creates a fuel drop ones and awhile at idle


OK second question - Clutch -
I replaced the clutch and throw out bearing. It shifts fine and there is no chatter nor the shakey thing befor I changed it, but there is a kind of churping (sort of) noise just as I let the clutch out, then it stops. Thoughts on what I might have done wrong? and should I be concerned? Might be a flywheel bushing issue. If the clutch works good, let it be and see if it comes worse. Most likelly the clutch temporarelly drag's when the noise occurs.?

Right now I have the radiator out. It is all plugged up I think. Temp gets to 210 on a 30 minute ride - no thermostat either. New water pump. going to the radiator shop in the AM for boiling! Always seems to be something. The radiator is first suspect, especially if the T-stat is out. You do the right thing going to a radiator shop. Let them remove the tanks and rod the core. They might suggest replacing it. If they do, dont go cheap and install a good core.

Thanks //Bill

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Re: Engine Question

Postby Billw » Sun Aug 05, 2012 9:34 pm

Thanks echelon1. I won't worry about the noises, but will keep listening.

I did take the radiator in. They boiled it and then did a power flush. When I dropped it off, I explained to the guy I had run the stuff I could buy and it was all clear when I got done. He filled it up and then pushed some air and hot water thru it - all this rusty water came out the top. So, the stuff NAPA sells is just not the same as taking it to a Pro!

I got it all back in and it took a gallon more antifreeze than what I took out. Good sign right? Drive for about 25 minutes - speedo said I was doing 45 -50 (but I don't think so). The temp got to about 185 or so. I thought it would have been cooler than that without a thermostat in it. Am I OK or should I take it back and have it recored? It was about 85 outside when I took the ride.

When I timed it, I went by the book, nothing fancy or strange or this should make it better stuff. The oil is full (the radiator is too - actually blew some out while I was driving). New water pump. I could see the antifreeze moving thru the radiator - fast too. Bad 4 lb cap? At what temp should I be concerned? I a little frustrated right now. Thanks again. //Bill

1941 "Slat Grill" 100751 - DOD 11/25/41
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Re: Engine Question

Postby echelon1 » Mon Aug 06, 2012 12:22 am

Flushing a radiator is good maintenance, but not always a good repair.
To restore effieciency the core should be rodded or replaced.
It is well spend money on an old radiator.

Gindi.
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Re: Engine Question

Postby Jim Kilbourne » Mon Aug 06, 2012 6:02 am

185 is not too bad.

try it with a thermostat...

it regulates the flow thru the radiator and allows cooling time before the water gets reheated in the block...

without it, hot water just runs in a circle thru the system and does not get enough hang time in the rad core to cool down enough...

so it just gets hotter and hotter over time...

you may want to spend money on roding the core before replacing it...

also might need to flush the block to clear the water jacket of goo....
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Re: Engine Question

Postby Jeff B » Mon Aug 06, 2012 4:29 pm

[quote="Jim Kilbourne"]185 is not too bad.

try it with a thermostat...

it regulates the flow thru the radiator and allows cooling time before the water gets reheated in the block...

without it, hot water just runs in a circle thru the system and does not get enough hang time in the rad core to cool down enough...

Interesting over the years, how many times I have run into folks who think the thermostat is a "restriction" to better cooling and they remove it. Not only does it regulate and maintain the cooling, but also allows the engine to warm up properly especially in cold weather.

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Re: Engine Question

Postby echelon1 » Fri Aug 10, 2012 2:02 pm

Jeff B wrote:
Jim Kilbourne wrote:185 is not too bad.

try it with a thermostat...

it regulates the flow thru the radiator and allows cooling time before the water gets reheated in the block...

without it, hot water just runs in a circle thru the system and does not get enough hang time in the rad core to cool down enough...

Interesting over the years, how many times I have run into folks who think the thermostat is a "restriction" to better cooling and they remove it. Not only does it regulate and maintain the cooling, but also allows the engine to warm up properly especially in cold weather.

Jeff B

That's most interesting.
It is true that T-stat's are pulled when overheating issues are noticed.
It does not solve the issue at all, but it does extend the warm up time...hence the driver can run the engine longer before the issue appears.
About the "hang time" in the radiator I must respectfully disagree.
It doesn't make sense to me.
More hang time to cool down in the radiator is true, but the coolant in the head also has more hang time to overheat.
So, more hang time in the head means higher temps indication on the gauge, or boiling and creating steam.
Since the technical school decades ago I have always learned that the T-stat has only 1 function...bringing the engine to working temperature and keeping it there.
It has no cooling function at all.

Just my 2 cents,
Gindi.
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Re: Engine Question

Postby Jim Kilbourne » Fri Aug 10, 2012 2:26 pm

Hi Gindi,

I understand the point you are making, but in my mind's logic, it does not fully work that way...

as soon as the water in the head reaches or begins to exceed the temp that opens the t-stat, the heated fluid flows to the cooling side of the system...and then cooler fluid flows to the head and the t-stat begins to close after being touched by cooler fluid, and so on...and then a stasis temp/flow can be/is reached...

in theory, I think, the fluid should never get much above the temp set that opens the t-stat...

so without a t-stat an engine will run warmer than it should...the "hang time" is certainly a relative term, but if the system is not regulated by metered opening and closings, or a steady partial passage...it just gets hotter than it should, and so on...

what do you think?
Jim Kilbourne
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Re: Engine Question

Postby echelon1 » Sat Aug 11, 2012 11:51 am

Hi Jim,
There are 3 things that needs to get in ballance.
There is the heat source, most heat is produced around the valve seats and combustion chamber.
It is a machine that never stops when power is cranking out the engine.
Than there is the cooling system, that's the radiator.
The radiator can handle a given capacity depending on the surface that is in touch with the coolant.
The radiator core is the surface, it is a bunch of tubes that represent a given surface.
The radiator is calculated by the constructor in relation to the engine and the aplication. (a GPA, Jeep, and generator all need a different kind of cooling system. The fan is part of the cooling system and is different on a driving unit than on a static unit.)
Than there is heat transport.
The waterpump and T-stat are representing the transport of heat together with the property from coolant that climbs when hotter and descends when colder.
With the T-stat closed, the waterpump let the coolant circulate inside the engine block in a way that the hot spots get fresh coolant all the time.
Hot water is climbing, and cold water is descending.
The T-stat is on the highest point of the engine.
The constructor want to keep the engine on a given working temp, and he want to get there as fast as possible.
This is the duty from the T-stat.
Without T-stat, the transport system will move the coolant to the radiator before the engine has reached the desired temperature.
The radiator is also a machine that never stops, however, there are other variants that dictate the radiator output,the ambient temperature and the flow through the core are the most important.
If an engine is running hot without T-stat, than something in the cooling system is wrong.
The transport system can fail to transport the heat away from the heat source, but if there is no T-stat, this is most unlikelly because the hot water can flow freely through the T-stat housing to the radiator.
If we now decrease flow to the radiator by installing an orifice (T-stat), the heat will rise more because now the hot water is restricted and has a longer heat up time in the head.
The temp gauge in the head will indicate hotter temps, even if the radiator now has a cooler output due to the increased cooling time.
My poin,t is that it serves nothing to keep the coolant longer in the radiator if the heat source keeps on producing heat.
The only solution is more cooling capacity, or decreasing heat production.
The only thing the T-stat can do is getting the "door" wide open for the hot coolant to escape and allow fresh coolant to come in.
We cannot save the world from starvation by abolishing the lunch in order to give more time to the fields to produce the crops..!!

Yours Faithfully,
Gindi.
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