Bent wheel studs

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powertool
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Bent wheel studs

Post by powertool » Wed Jul 25, 2007 5:49 am

I've got some bent studs on 12 bolt rims. A couple of them spun out while I was changing tires. Is it safe to replace those, or are they shot? I don't think the holes where the studs spun out will hold an interference fit again. I may just replace them with cap screws, at least then I can get a wrench on it when it spins. Thanks.


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Kurt Lesser
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wheel studs

Post by Kurt Lesser » Wed Jul 25, 2007 2:26 pm

Powertool,

If you just had one or two studs spin out you might think about cap screws but why fool around with them? there are 12 bolt wheels available. Don't compromise the safety of your vehicle by jury rigging the running gear. If the wheel won't retain a new stud, toss it and find a new one.
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wheel studs

Post by gizip » Wed Jul 25, 2007 5:11 pm

This worked for me to prevent the cost of another wheel. Assemble the wheel with all remaining good studs, then drop in the OEM new stud or used good stud in the affected hole, pound in with heavy hammer, tighten up best you can, then tack weld on the rear in two opposing spots. It will now tighten as it should. You can do all this with the tire on too.

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Post by powertool » Thu Jul 26, 2007 10:39 pm

I've considered welding them, I'm just wary of welding on a wheel that carries my family on the freeway.
The fit on the spun studs is still tight. I can't turn them with my fingers, but they spin when I put the wrench on the nut. I don't think the press fit of the studs is important for the structural integrity of the wheel, it just retains the studs when the nuts are removed. I'm actually thinking that JB Weld will do the trick.
If that doesn't work, I'll probably replace a couple of wheels, and keep these for spares.

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Post by dunsbr » Thu Jul 26, 2007 11:35 pm

If the studs still fit firmly, maybe if you use some JB weld on the stud to recreate the splines in the wheel..

Just a thought

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Brad Dunstan
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
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Post by powertool » Fri Jul 27, 2007 3:16 am

That's kind of what I had in mind, as well as some on the seating surface of the stud head. As long as the studs don't spin when I loosen the clamp nuts, it will serve the same purpose as the original interference fit. Installing new studs will also improve the fit, but it won't be as tight as the original and the epoxy will improve the bond further.

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Post by dunsbr » Fri Jul 27, 2007 4:12 am

You could clean the wheel surface thoroughly but lightly wax the stud splines so that when the epoxy sets it will bond to the wheel surface, but not the stud.
This will allow it to be simply removed later.

Cheers
Brad Dunstan
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)


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