12 bolt wheels - stud replacement

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almonster
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12 bolt wheels - stud replacement

Post by almonster » Thu Jun 14, 2007 12:14 am

After successfully removing all 48 penta nuts from the 12 bolt wheels, I would like to remove some if not all the studs and replace them with new ones.

Does anyone have any info on whether this is safe or not? Most of the studs are in "okay" condition. However, if I can, I would rather replace them with new ones.

My concern is that as I hammer them in, it might bend the back of the wheel. Any suggestions on the best way to do this?


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Post by dunsbr » Thu Jun 14, 2007 1:01 am

Hi Al,

Just whack them out from the front and push them in from the back. (making sure you line up the splines on the studs with the grooves in the wheel).
A light tap with a hammer will get then started and then the two stage torquing up process will get them seated.

This is an easy "No sweat" job :D

Cheers
Brad Dunstan
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)

hummer4x4guy
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Post by hummer4x4guy » Thu Jun 14, 2007 8:42 am

When you put them back in, I thought you are suppose to somehow use one or two nuts on the thread side and simply tighen it up and then it would pull the stud through the hole and seat it..?
Joel
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1987 2 door M998
2001 M1102

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dunsbr
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Post by dunsbr » Thu Jun 14, 2007 3:41 pm

Hi Joel,
I just line up the splines and gently tap the stud in a little way, then use a rattle gun to run up a nut to seat the stud.
Then I loosen it and torque it up.

I've replaced studs on disassembled wheels and also on wheels still on the vehicle this way with good success.

Cheers
Brad Dunstan
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)

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beltfed34
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Post by beltfed34 » Thu Jun 14, 2007 5:40 pm

I've had problems with the studs not staying in, you can tack weld them in place, just the loose ones, no heavy duty welds.

Austin in Texas!
43' Ford M8 Greyhound w/Live 37mm
67' Saladin w/demil 76mm (dang!!)
43' GPW
93' H-1/HMMWV conversion Armaments Carrier
Lots of Live Machine Guns, Cannons, live FLAMETHROWER, and other cool stuff you can own in the US and Texas!

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dunsbr
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Post by dunsbr » Thu Jun 14, 2007 7:49 pm

beltfed34 wrote:I've had problems with the studs not staying in, you can tack weld them in place, just the loose ones, no heavy duty welds.

Austin in Texas!
43' Ford M8 Greyhound w/Live 37mm
67' Saladin w/demil 76mm (dang!!)
43' GPW
93' H-1/HMMWV conversion Armaments Carrier
Lots of Live Machine Guns, Cannons, live FLAMETHROWER, and other cool stuff you can own in the US and Texas!
Yep, I have two studs in one of my wheels that can drop out during wheel assembly.
They are a PITA! :evil:

I belive it is due to whoever last replaced the studs not taking the care to line up the splines before driving them in,,,,,

Cheers
Brad Dunstan
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)

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dilvoy
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12 bolt wheels stud replacement

Post by dilvoy » Thu Jun 14, 2007 8:53 pm

Replaced studs will never be as tight as the original ones that cut the grooves into the wheel holes, unless the new studs have a larger diameter splined area. Then you would need a press to install them and possibly need re bore the holes, depending on available spline sizes available. That would be a real mess and you might have some off position studs if a proper drill press and fixture were not used to hold the wheel into position. The wheels might be considered a semi consumable commodity, sort of like a brake rotor, so if too many studs are loose and can't be tightened up by buggering the grooves in the wheel before another standard stud is installed, maybe they should be retired. Once all the things are bolted together, a loose stud should not be a safety issue, unless the head on the back side is damaged, but if too many are loose the wheel halves might not be positioned correctly. Then again, if only two studs are perfectly tight and those are the ones that the locating washers are attached to, the rest can still be used for their clamping force.
George D. Paxinos

M998
M1123A2


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