After successfully removing all 48 penta nuts from the 12 bolt wheels, I would like to remove some if not all the studs and replace them with new ones.
Does anyone have any info on whether this is safe or not? Most of the studs are in "okay" condition. However, if I can, I would rather replace them with new ones.
My concern is that as I hammer them in, it might bend the back of the wheel. Any suggestions on the best way to do this?
12 bolt wheels - stud replacement
Moderator: Kurt Lesser
- almonster
- Sergeant Major of the Gee
- Posts: 357
- Joined: Thu Sep 08, 2005 9:52 am
- Location:
- Contact:
- dunsbr
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 4098
- Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2004 2:53 pm
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
- Contact:
Hi Al,
Just whack them out from the front and push them in from the back. (making sure you line up the splines on the studs with the grooves in the wheel).
A light tap with a hammer will get then started and then the two stage torquing up process will get them seated.
This is an easy "No sweat" job
Cheers
Just whack them out from the front and push them in from the back. (making sure you line up the splines on the studs with the grooves in the wheel).
A light tap with a hammer will get then started and then the two stage torquing up process will get them seated.
This is an easy "No sweat" job
Cheers
Brad Dunstan
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)
-
- G-Lieutenant Colonel
- Posts: 1142
- Joined: Sat Dec 18, 2004 4:40 am
- Location: Lansing, michigan
- Contact:
- dunsbr
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 4098
- Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2004 2:53 pm
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
- Contact:
Hi Joel,
I just line up the splines and gently tap the stud in a little way, then use a rattle gun to run up a nut to seat the stud.
Then I loosen it and torque it up.
I've replaced studs on disassembled wheels and also on wheels still on the vehicle this way with good success.
Cheers
I just line up the splines and gently tap the stud in a little way, then use a rattle gun to run up a nut to seat the stud.
Then I loosen it and torque it up.
I've replaced studs on disassembled wheels and also on wheels still on the vehicle this way with good success.
Cheers
Brad Dunstan
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)
- beltfed34
- G-Lieutenant Colonel
- Posts: 1032
- Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2006 8:52 pm
- Location: Texas!
I've had problems with the studs not staying in, you can tack weld them in place, just the loose ones, no heavy duty welds.
Austin in Texas!
43' Ford M8 Greyhound w/Live 37mm
67' Saladin w/demil 76mm (dang!!)
43' GPW
93' H-1/HMMWV conversion Armaments Carrier
Lots of Live Machine Guns, Cannons, live FLAMETHROWER, and other cool stuff you can own in the US and Texas!
Austin in Texas!
43' Ford M8 Greyhound w/Live 37mm
67' Saladin w/demil 76mm (dang!!)
43' GPW
93' H-1/HMMWV conversion Armaments Carrier
Lots of Live Machine Guns, Cannons, live FLAMETHROWER, and other cool stuff you can own in the US and Texas!
- dunsbr
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 4098
- Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2004 2:53 pm
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
- Contact:
Yep, I have two studs in one of my wheels that can drop out during wheel assembly.beltfed34 wrote:I've had problems with the studs not staying in, you can tack weld them in place, just the loose ones, no heavy duty welds.
Austin in Texas!
43' Ford M8 Greyhound w/Live 37mm
67' Saladin w/demil 76mm (dang!!)
43' GPW
93' H-1/HMMWV conversion Armaments Carrier
Lots of Live Machine Guns, Cannons, live FLAMETHROWER, and other cool stuff you can own in the US and Texas!
They are a PITA!
I belive it is due to whoever last replaced the studs not taking the care to line up the splines before driving them in,,,,,
Cheers
Brad Dunstan
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)
- dilvoy
- G-Lieutenant General
- Posts: 6185
- Joined: Tue May 18, 2004 4:28 pm
- Location: San Francisco, Ca.
12 bolt wheels stud replacement
Replaced studs will never be as tight as the original ones that cut the grooves into the wheel holes, unless the new studs have a larger diameter splined area. Then you would need a press to install them and possibly need re bore the holes, depending on available spline sizes available. That would be a real mess and you might have some off position studs if a proper drill press and fixture were not used to hold the wheel into position. The wheels might be considered a semi consumable commodity, sort of like a brake rotor, so if too many studs are loose and can't be tightened up by buggering the grooves in the wheel before another standard stud is installed, maybe they should be retired. Once all the things are bolted together, a loose stud should not be a safety issue, unless the head on the back side is damaged, but if too many are loose the wheel halves might not be positioned correctly. Then again, if only two studs are perfectly tight and those are the ones that the locating washers are attached to, the rest can still be used for their clamping force.
George D. Paxinos
M998
M1123A2
M998
M1123A2
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 43 guests