A quick intro...

1985 - Present, Questions, discussions, regarding anything related to the Humvee. (NO AUCTION or EBAY)

Moderator: Kurt Lesser

User avatar
dunsbr
G-Lieutenant General
G-Lieutenant General
Posts: 4098
Joined: Thu Dec 09, 2004 2:53 pm
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Contact:

Post by dunsbr » Sat Dec 30, 2006 1:50 pm

David,

When I was converting my truck to RHD ans had to take out the battery box etc, I found the best way to remove the rivets was a good sharp chisel and pin punch.
One (maybe two) good blows and the head comes right off the rivet.
Then tap out the shank with the pin punch.

I found that this method was even faster and more reliable than drilling.

When you get a row of rivets it was whack, slide to the next, whack, slide, whack..... Then come back with the pin punch, tap, tap, tap.

I found that this method was even faster and more reliable than drilling.


Cheers
Brad Dunstan
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)


Action
G-Lieutenant General
G-Lieutenant General
Posts: 5181
Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2006 3:19 pm
Location: East Tennessee
Contact:

Post by Action » Sat Dec 30, 2006 7:07 pm

I used the same chisel/punch method for the right fender. There were a few thicker rivets that gave me some grief. A temp in the 90's didn't help either.

I forgot he has to convert those to RHD.

Jason

User avatar
Kurt Lesser
G-Lieutenant General
G-Lieutenant General
Posts: 3779
Joined: Sun May 16, 2004 3:08 pm
Location: San Jose, Ca
Contact:

bodywork

Post by Kurt Lesser » Sun Dec 31, 2006 9:04 am

When I was reworking my HMMWV and had to remove and replace numerous panels I found this rivet shaver in a surplus store in Los Angeles. ( 1 & 2 ) It originally came out of Boeing Aircraft, probably from their Long Beach plant where the C-17s are assembled. I think it cost me $40 at the time.

It's basically a high speed pneumatic drill with a plunge type end mill in the end. Pulling the trigger spins up the bit and then a push takes the head off of the rivet flush with the body. No scarfing of the body panel and no out of round holes.

Later on I found another type of the same tool ( 3 & 4 )without the pneumatic drill section. These show up on the surplus market for $25 or so. If this can help you with your repair I can lend it to you. The carbide bits can be expensive, you just need to take your time and be carefull with it.

Image

Image

Image

Image
Kurt Lesser
US Navy, 1969-1975
M996A1 Ambulance w/M101A3 Trailer
M274A2 Mule
M151A1 Mutt w/M416B1 Trailer
M890 Crew cab

Matte Black
G-Sergeant
G-Sergeant
Posts: 43
Joined: Tue Dec 12, 2006 12:26 am
Location: Sydney Australia

Post by Matte Black » Mon Jan 01, 2007 2:41 pm

Hello Kurt,

Thanks for the offer, but I am just about done now.

What an awesome tool! If anyone sees one for sale anywhere please let me know...

David

Matte Black
G-Sergeant
G-Sergeant
Posts: 43
Joined: Tue Dec 12, 2006 12:26 am
Location: Sydney Australia

Post by Matte Black » Mon Jan 01, 2007 11:53 pm

A friend of mine suggested this 3M adhesive.

http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebs ... z0COrrrrQ-

Perhaps this is what they use at the factory?

I think i will stick to the Sikaflex 260 and use their suggested primer beforehand as a corrosion inhibitor.


Post Reply

Return to “Humvee Technical Knowledge Base -”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 63 guests