canon plug repair

1985 - Present, Questions, discussions, regarding anything related to the Humvee. (NO AUCTION or EBAY)

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dunsbr
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canon plug repair

Post by dunsbr » Tue Sep 26, 2006 2:43 pm

I've just spent 3 days doing some repairs/upgrades/PM on the Humvee.
I fitted a new fuel pump, a new horn, a new fan, installed quick connect fittings on the fan clutch, installed a new set of V-Belts, flushed the cooling system, fitted a new coolant recovery bottle and hose, installed an ambulance 5 groove water pump pulley (for the A/C compressorand fitted LED side maker lights!
Phew! :D

One of the jobs I've been meaning to do was to check out an intermittant operation of the LHF turn signal.
(and yes I know its supposed to go on and off! :D :D )
Mine would work sometimes and then sometimes it wouldn't.
After following the voltage in the cicuit I determined that the fault was in the hood wiring.
After I refitted the hood I checked out the wiring and found that the turn signal wirng was loose in the canon plug.
In fact I can actually pull the wire out of the connector!! :shock:

I've never pulled apart a cannon plug to re solder the wiring to the connector pin.

Are there any tips/tricks I should know?

Thanks in advance
Brad Dunstan
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)


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almonster
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Left Hand Signal

Post by almonster » Tue Sep 26, 2006 2:49 pm

Hi Brad.

Did you notice on your hood wiring where it enters the "box" where it actually connects to the lights that the hole where the main wiring harness enters is worn?

Mine was frayed because there was no rubber grommet in the fibreglass to prevent the rubbing from vibration to wear on the harness itself. I think most of the wires in mine are still intact, but I do plan to put a grommet there and tie it down better in that area.

I think Kurt has tools that he's used to push the pins through.

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dunsbr
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Post by dunsbr » Tue Sep 26, 2006 4:22 pm

Hi Al,

My grommets are in place in both "connector boxes" the and the wiring is generally in good shape.

I only found the loose wire as I was trying to read the wiring tag on the wire at the back of the connector. As I twisted the tag the wire simply slipped out of the connector and when I pushed it back in, the turn signal started working...

Cheers
Brad Dunstan
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)

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Post by Ozhumvee » Tue Sep 26, 2006 11:27 pm

Brad
I'd try cleaning the pin etc, push it nearly all the way in and then glue it with some sikaflex or similar to hold it after you push it all the way in.
Peter James
Sydney, Australia
RHD 1988 M1026
4speed, Aircon and CTIS!
Unfortunately has been sold!

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Post by dunsbr » Wed Sep 27, 2006 3:39 am

Hi Peter,

The pin is still in the housing but the wire was come out of the crimp on the pin.

If wost comes to worst, I was thinking of pushing the wire in firmly and putting a dob of superglue on the back to hold the wire in place...

Hardly optimal, but for such a low use, low current circuit, it'll probably do.

I'd rather get a heads up on how to pull the plug apart so I cad do it properly. I believe Kurt is a guru at this sort of thing.

Cheers
Brad Dunstan
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)

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Cannon plug

Post by kill » Mon Dec 04, 2006 6:44 pm

If you have acces to a new cannon plug i would recommend that i may have the male and female ends layingaround, if you still need them, otherwise the cheap and yet easiest may would to just get a simple electrical connector with a female end on each end and crimp them together, soldier each end a wrap in electrical tape.
The M998 King

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Post by Mark Rozak » Mon Dec 04, 2006 9:32 pm

I've seen some worn/twisted at the connector. I believe the -34 manual has some info on this subject. Repair is easy with a 40 watt soldering iron. Slide numbered tags as far from the connector as possible. The tapered shell unscrews and is slid onto the harness. Use some liguid penetrating oil, lube rubber base 1. A scratch awl or thin blade screwdriver can be used to slide the rubber base 1 away from the business end. Gently and carefully use needle nose pliers, or side cutters to remove the pin from rubber base 2 (in the connector shell). Solder the pin onto the wire, let cool and reinstall.

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Kurt Lesser
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connector repairs

Post by Kurt Lesser » Tue Dec 05, 2006 8:25 am

Brad,

I have the insertion and extraction tools for these connectors and your more than welcome to borrow them. I know you have the right crimp tool for the job. The pins are available but they should be purchased new to do the job correctly.

Let me know............
Kurt Lesser
US Navy, 1969-1975
M996A1 Ambulance w/M101A3 Trailer
M274A2 Mule
M151A1 Mutt w/M416B1 Trailer
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Post by Angry Iron » Tue Dec 05, 2006 8:40 am

Kurt could you post a picture of the pin I&R tool. Another question, are the crimpers the same for the water tight/bell connectors, cannon plug pins and cannon plug sockets?
Shawn Smith
'85 M998 Humvee
Angry Iron Off-road accessories
www.angryiron.com
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shawn@angryiron.com

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Post by craparo » Tue Dec 05, 2006 11:03 am

I'll bring my camera up and grab a picture of the tool for you (atleast the one I use to pull/install) it is just a cheaply made plastic piece, and I believe I have the NSN for it aswell
Need any HMMWV parts? (998, 1123, etc..) Let me know, I am parting mine out.

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Post by dunsbr » Tue Dec 05, 2006 11:42 am

Thanks Kurt.
I may take you up on that offer.
I'll wait till I see pics of the tool (maybe I can make it) before I decide.

Cheers
Brad Dunstan
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)

craparo
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Post by craparo » Tue Dec 05, 2006 2:15 pm

Unless you can mold plastic it would be extremely hard to make the tool that I use... still working on the pics btw.
Need any HMMWV parts? (998, 1123, etc..) Let me know, I am parting mine out.

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dunsbr
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Post by dunsbr » Tue Dec 05, 2006 3:12 pm

As a matter of fact, my company can do a range of plastic molding/ machinging operations.
Plus we do Carbon fiber work too.
One day, I'm going to mould some Carbon Fibre Xdoor half doors... 8)

Cheers
Brad Dunstan
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)

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Post by craparo » Tue Dec 05, 2006 5:34 pm

Haha, thats why I was asking, you never know :)

I will get multiple pictures for you, so hopefully you can make a good one
Need any HMMWV parts? (998, 1123, etc..) Let me know, I am parting mine out.

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Kurt Lesser
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Connector tools

Post by Kurt Lesser » Tue Dec 05, 2006 5:37 pm

Here's a shot of various tools that can be used to repair these connectors. The silver handled tools on the right are those that come in the military connector repair kits. The others with the colored handles are typical industrial tools used to assemble and disassemble the military style connectors.

Image

BTW, when you do the x doors Brad put me down for a set. You can deliver them to Tower Park.
Kurt Lesser
US Navy, 1969-1975
M996A1 Ambulance w/M101A3 Trailer
M274A2 Mule
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