Keyed ignition switch vs battery cutoff vs both
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Keyed ignition switch vs battery cutoff vs both
I am getting very close to being able to drive this truck on a regular basis, and am getting concerned about being able to safely park it somewhere and be out of sight of it. What is the current thinking on theft deterrent ideas? I am considering purchasing one of the Ebay keyed switches and already own a good quality battery cutoff switch. Changing out the ignition switch does not seem intimidating, but where is a 'knowledgeable' location for installing a battery cutoff switch? In the ground circuit? Thanks!
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Re: Keyed ignition switch vs battery cutoff vs both
i am not a fan of that epay switch, because you have to drill the hole in the dash bigger. You wont be able to go back easily. I guess you could replace the dashboard.
The more safety things you put on, the harder it will be to steal. But, it doesn't matter what you put on it, if someone wants it.
If you have hard doors, I would get locking handles. Just that will deter some folks from messing around with it.
Jason
The more safety things you put on, the harder it will be to steal. But, it doesn't matter what you put on it, if someone wants it.
If you have hard doors, I would get locking handles. Just that will deter some folks from messing around with it.
Jason
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Re: Keyed ignition switch vs battery cutoff vs both
Living on the outskirts of Baltimore, a keyed battery cutoff in a remote location like behind either seat down low is a no brainer and is easy to install. It also insures that any little voltage drains don't slowly siphon off the batts. Just my opinion.
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Re: Keyed ignition switch vs battery cutoff vs both
I was not aware of locking door handles. Where might I search for them?
The battery cut-off switch that I already have is a keyed one. I will most likely take that good advice as well.
The battery cut-off switch that I already have is a keyed one. I will most likely take that good advice as well.
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Re: Keyed ignition switch vs battery cutoff vs both
For what it's worth, My opinion is to make any security item as easy as possible to use or you might get lazy and not always use it. Jason is right, the common keyed ignitions make you enlarge the switch hole in the dash, but you probably won't ever go back to a simple switch and if you did, you could make a plate the same size as the switch data plate to make things mostly right. The simple switches are cheap. Doorman sells one for about ten dollars delivered. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-85936-Con ... ion+switch I bought a different one for $15.00, because I wanted the round knurled lock nut. You would have to make some little wire jumpers, but that is easy enough.
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Re: Keyed ignition switch vs battery cutoff vs both
Locking door handles on epay. They work with the x-doors. Watch out though, there is a manufacturer of these that the holes do not line up. Kascar's did not line up when I tried theirs.RockHillWill wrote: ↑Mon Jan 29, 2018 7:21 amI was not aware of locking door handles. Where might I search for them?
The battery cut-off switch that I already have is a keyed one. I will most likely take that good advice as well.
Jason
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Re: Keyed ignition switch vs battery cutoff vs both
Here's a solution I did for a friend with a HMMWV that wanted to keep everything as original as possible yet wanted a little more security. The panel is held in by the bolts that mount the door strap bracket and basically just interrupt the power going to the normal ignition switch. I added a second switch to give him the option of controlling a second device but it's unused right now. The lower two holes are for rivets that attach a bottom plate to the bracket so you can't reach up behind it.
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Re: Keyed ignition switch vs battery cutoff vs both
How do you hold the nuts on the back of the door strap bolts?Kurt Lesser wrote: ↑Tue Jan 30, 2018 9:08 am
Here's a solution I did for a friend with a HMMWV that wanted to keep everything as original as possible yet wanted a little more security. The panel is held in by the bolts that mount the door strap bracket and basically just interrupt the power going to the normal ignition switch. I added a second switch to give him the option of controlling a second device but it's unused right now. The lower two holes are for rivets that attach a bottom plate to the bracket so you can't reach up behind it.
Jason
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Re: Keyed ignition switch vs battery cutoff vs both
I just used KEP nuts that are self locking. That's why the bottom plate isn't on the switchplate in the picture. You can reach up and fasten the bolts to hold the bracket and plate in and then by rivetting in the lower plate access is blocked from people trying to reach the wiring.
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Re: Keyed ignition switch vs battery cutoff vs both
I install only the Kascar keyed switch that leaves the original style switch intact, it basically kills one leg of the start switch.
Can go anywhere, I just drill a hole in the dash install it below the air filter restriction gauge.
Can go anywhere, I just drill a hole in the dash install it below the air filter restriction gauge.
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Re: Keyed ignition switch vs battery cutoff vs both
Kurt,
There is no image, just the word "image".
Jason
There is no image, just the word "image".
Jason
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Re: Keyed ignition switch vs battery cutoff vs both
That's strange because they're showing up on my computer.
Steve,
This way allows you to install a switch and not drill any holes in the dash. Is the picture showing up for you?
Kurt
Steve,
This way allows you to install a switch and not drill any holes in the dash. Is the picture showing up for you?
Kurt
Kurt Lesser
US Navy, 1969-1975
M996A1 Ambulance w/M101A3 Trailer
M274A2 Mule
M151A1 Mutt w/M416B1 Trailer
M890 Crew cab
US Navy, 1969-1975
M996A1 Ambulance w/M101A3 Trailer
M274A2 Mule
M151A1 Mutt w/M416B1 Trailer
M890 Crew cab
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