Replacing the nuts on a 24 bolt wheel and tire arraingement.
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Replacing the nuts on a 24 bolt wheel and tire arraingement.
When I got the 24 bolt wheels originally, I only got four of them, but I am going to use a Rhino spare tire mount and would like to have the best looking wheel and tire there to look at. The fifth tire and wheel that I bought had the wheel and the nuts all painted black. It's an OK paint job, but I do not like the black paint on the nuts and want to replace the nuts with newer 'silver' nuts. I am asking for advice on how to do that. I currently expect to let most of the air out of the tire and want to use a 3/8" drive impact wrench to remove the nuts and re-install them one at a time and tighten to a minimum tightness, then torque them all in the prescribed cross pattern as well. What torques sequence/steps is recommended? Thanks!
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Re: Replacing the nuts on a 24 bolt wheel and tire arraingement.
Torque sequence is in the TM, as well as the torque settings.
Also, let all the air out of the Tire when doing this...it won’t unseat the bead.
Also, let all the air out of the Tire when doing this...it won’t unseat the bead.
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Re: Replacing the nuts on a 24 bolt wheel and tire arraingement.
That is a fine piece of Intel! I am going to try to remember that next time.Retired War Horses wrote: Also, let all the air out of the Tire when doing this...it won’t unseat the bead.
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Re: Replacing the nuts on a 24 bolt wheel and tire arraingement.
Here, you can see why it will not come off of the wheel bead...DockRocker wrote: ↑Sat Jan 20, 2018 7:34 amThat is a fine piece of Intel! I am going to try to remember that next time.Retired War Horses wrote: Also, let all the air out of the Tire when doing this...it won’t unseat the bead.
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Jason
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Re: Replacing the nuts on a 24 bolt wheel and tire arraingement.
Thanks for your replies, gentlemen, but it seems that I must try harder to be more specific when asking a question here.
I had previously found both the torque specs and the tightening sequence in the 85 ft/lbs and the 110 ft/ lbs 'steps, but the -21-1 TM also states that one should "tighten locknuts gradually to avoid bent or broken studs". Going straight to 85 ft/lbs and then to 110 ft/lbs did not sound 'gradual' to me and I was hoping that one of the more intellectually gifted and experienced gentlemen would offer to expound on the question. I am sorry, if I was too vague in asking the question.
If I replace the nuts one at a time, would it be safe to go back straight to the 110 ft./lbs torque?
I had previously found both the torque specs and the tightening sequence in the 85 ft/lbs and the 110 ft/ lbs 'steps, but the -21-1 TM also states that one should "tighten locknuts gradually to avoid bent or broken studs". Going straight to 85 ft/lbs and then to 110 ft/lbs did not sound 'gradual' to me and I was hoping that one of the more intellectually gifted and experienced gentlemen would offer to expound on the question. I am sorry, if I was too vague in asking the question.
If I replace the nuts one at a time, would it be safe to go back straight to the 110 ft./lbs torque?
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Re: Replacing the nuts on a 24 bolt wheel and tire arraingement.
I think your over thinking it, let air out, change one at a time and retourque it to 110Lbs, then move to the next. The nuts just keep the rim on when filled with air, I do not see how it would warp with a 1:1 exchange while not under pressure. After they are all changed re-check torque and fill with air.
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Re: Replacing the nuts on a 24 bolt wheel and tire arraingement.
That was my thinking as well, and truthfully I do tend to over think things, but after almost 60 years of building, restoring and racing, it has become apparent that gathering facts and details is the thing that I enjoy the most about these endeavors. Thanks for indulging me.
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