Removing the front bolt on the lower control arm on M998

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RockHillWill
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Removing the front bolt on the lower control arm on M998

Post by RockHillWill » Mon Dec 25, 2017 4:57 am

I am adding the brackets to extend the frame sections to accommodate the front plate for mounting an electric winch. I have them installed and am now ready to install the lower braces that go on the front of the frame at the forward lower control arm bolt. It looks a bit 'intimidating' to try and remove that bolt with the spring still in place. Can I drive the bolts out with another bolt from the back, then reverse this procedure to mount the braces? I was only able to buy one side of the braces, but am happy with the one I made here in the shop. I measured the pieces of the original one and had them water jetted, then scribed lines on the steel welding table and arraigned the offsets in opposite direction. It looks real nice, but don't know how it will work. Any other ideas regarding changing these lower control arm bolts?


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DockRocker
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Re: Removing the front bolt on the lower control arm on M998

Post by DockRocker » Mon Dec 25, 2017 5:04 am

I just drove that bolt out with a bolt that was a little longer than the factory one. I did use the jack to help make that process a little easier.


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Re: Removing the front bolt on the lower control arm on M998

Post by JuanPrado » Mon Dec 25, 2017 9:39 am

Yes, As Dock stated. Jack up the arm and remove weight and just unscrew bolt as you screw in bolt from other side. Worked perfectly and easy when I installed my mile marker. Tractor supply sells the bolts the cheapest that I found.

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86humv
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Re: Removing the front bolt on the lower control arm on M998

Post by 86humv » Mon Dec 25, 2017 10:31 am

You can also remove nut...slightly tap out bolt....notch hole on end of bracket and slide it on.
I also removed bolt and and put it in back to front so nut is forward, then easy to remove bracket if needed.
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DockRocker
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Re: Removing the front bolt on the lower control arm on M998

Post by DockRocker » Mon Dec 25, 2017 3:11 pm

86humv wrote:You can also remove nut...slightly tap out bolt....notch hole on end of bracket and slide it on.
I also removed bolt and and put it in back to front so nut is forward, then easy to remove bracket if needed.
$&@!?$)/@ why didn’t I think to notch the dad-gum thing!!!!

You deserve a novel peace prize for lowering the overall swear words used in a year for that idea.

We did put it nut out like you described for future help.


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RockHillWill
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Re: Removing the front bolt on the lower control arm on M998

Post by RockHillWill » Tue Dec 26, 2017 3:40 am

Merry Christmas to all!

GREAT idea, there Greg. I am most impressed with the knowledge that you guys are willing to share. GREAT site, and thanks for letting me be part of the discussions.

I have already considered driving out the existing bolt with a slightly longer new bolt, and that looks like a good idea, but on the drivers side the brake caliper looks like it might be in the way of doing that.

It was mentioned to jack up under the lower control arm to minimize the load, but I was thinking it might be better to put the jack under the cross member to extend the spring and then maybe a bottle jack right under the control arm bushing.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

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Ted Gates
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Re: Removing the front bolt on the lower control arm on M998

Post by Ted Gates » Tue Dec 26, 2017 5:50 am

Done this many times.
Leave weight on lower a-arm. Jack up the lower a-arm slightly, near higher of the two shock mount bolts. If bolt is inserted from front to rear, then use new correct length bolt and use it to pound out the old bolt while new bolt gets inserted. Correct length bolts will not interfere with calipers. If old bolt is inserted from rear, then pound it out with another bolt and then use new correct bolt to inserted from rear and repeat the process until new bolt is in. Sometimes it requires a big hammer. If a-arm moves so holes are not aligned, jack up or down, a-arm until it is close. Torque to specs.


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