M1165 Build
Moderator: Kurt Lesser
- Ted Gates
- G-Major General
- Posts: 2667
- Joined: Sun Dec 15, 2002 12:13 pm
- Location: Eaton Rapids, MI
Re: M1165 Build
Frame cleaned and reassembled. Will place new a-arms, steering gear, diffs, hubs, and brackets. Heavy!
This one will get the rear winch and front winch setup. These REV's have a lot of factory mods done to them. Bigger bolts and more holes to hold things.
Enjoy...
This one will get the rear winch and front winch setup. These REV's have a lot of factory mods done to them. Bigger bolts and more holes to hold things.
Enjoy...
- Attachments
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- frame.jpg (61.73 KiB) Viewed 2000 times
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- Frame 1.jpg (191.09 KiB) Viewed 2000 times
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- frame 2.jpg (188.02 KiB) Viewed 2000 times
- Ted Gates
- G-Major General
- Posts: 2667
- Joined: Sun Dec 15, 2002 12:13 pm
- Location: Eaton Rapids, MI
Re: M1165 Build
Here is the battery box and tunnel with more stuff. Fun...
- Attachments
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- battery box.jpg (206.76 KiB) Viewed 1998 times
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- Tunnel Ac lines and harnesses.jpg (232.08 KiB) Viewed 1998 times
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- Sergeant Major of the Gee
- Posts: 295
- Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 6:33 pm
- Location: lumberton NC
Re: M1165 Build
Ted you do awesome work.
I do have to ask though.....I noticed in one of you photos that you have the rear rh tunnel insulation piece. Would you mind disclosing where you found it? Or a part number for others to search it out?
Thank you,
Corey
I do have to ask though.....I noticed in one of you photos that you have the rear rh tunnel insulation piece. Would you mind disclosing where you found it? Or a part number for others to search it out?
Thank you,
Corey
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- G-Command Sergeant Major
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Re: M1165 Build
Ted,
Very nice work on your REV build! I noticed that the brackets that you have laid out for your rear winch are the M1114 , 24V electric warn 9K style mounts. Although these weren't original to M1165's as the 1165's used the milemarker hydraulic setup, I personally like electric over hydraulic as you won't have potential leaks and don't have to have the engine running in an emergency situation to use the winch as in a stalled or hydro-locked motor during deep water fording operations. I like your selection, would you enlighten us to your thought process in selecting the M1114 style rear winch to broaden our perspectives of the different rear winch styles.
Thanks and once again Great Work!
Very nice work on your REV build! I noticed that the brackets that you have laid out for your rear winch are the M1114 , 24V electric warn 9K style mounts. Although these weren't original to M1165's as the 1165's used the milemarker hydraulic setup, I personally like electric over hydraulic as you won't have potential leaks and don't have to have the engine running in an emergency situation to use the winch as in a stalled or hydro-locked motor during deep water fording operations. I like your selection, would you enlighten us to your thought process in selecting the M1114 style rear winch to broaden our perspectives of the different rear winch styles.
Thanks and once again Great Work!
- Ted Gates
- G-Major General
- Posts: 2667
- Joined: Sun Dec 15, 2002 12:13 pm
- Location: Eaton Rapids, MI
Re: M1165 Build
Thanks for the comps.
The internet is wonderful and almost all parts can be found in TM's.
Fig 357
2510-01-560-3945 34623 12506708 INSULATION,ACCOUSTIC RR
Actually, I had this winch in stock so I thought I would install on my truck. I like electric winches and this truck will have one on the front and rear. This one is easily mounted and operated. So it just a personal choice and it will be one of the only things not standard to this build. Also, I did not want the spare fuel tank...
The internet is wonderful and almost all parts can be found in TM's.
Fig 357
2510-01-560-3945 34623 12506708 INSULATION,ACCOUSTIC RR
Actually, I had this winch in stock so I thought I would install on my truck. I like electric winches and this truck will have one on the front and rear. This one is easily mounted and operated. So it just a personal choice and it will be one of the only things not standard to this build. Also, I did not want the spare fuel tank...
- Ted Gates
- G-Major General
- Posts: 2667
- Joined: Sun Dec 15, 2002 12:13 pm
- Location: Eaton Rapids, MI
Re: M1165 Build
I have been working on the hubs. All new bearings, races, seals, etc. PIA. But at least a spindle will not pass me on the highway!
I also have been dressing up the 6.5TD. Lots of new parts to install. No pictures but maybe by the new year I will have something to show.
I also have been dressing up the 6.5TD. Lots of new parts to install. No pictures but maybe by the new year I will have something to show.
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- G-Major
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- Location: South East PA
Re: M1165 Build
Ted,Ted Gates wrote:I have been working on the hubs. All new bearings, races, seals, etc. PIA. But at least a spindle will not pass me on the highway!
I highly recommend not having tire and spindle passing you on the way down the road. Which of the three methods of securing the spindle nut are you using? REV B hubs? How did you pull the faces? I've heard they are pain to get out?
- Ted Gates
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- Joined: Sun Dec 15, 2002 12:13 pm
- Location: Eaton Rapids, MI
Re: M1165 Build
Clarke,
The 12k hubs I have are using middle version of lock nuts which is very secure when done properly. If I can obtain REV B hubs or parts then I would go that route. It is relatively easy to change out hubs and steering link if I don't find the hubs/parts in time. The 2009 manual does not itemize the REV B hub, only the 12k one.
To pull the upper race in the hub, I use a slide hammer puller. Takes about 10 whacks and they pop out. Just NEVER let go of the hammer when your other hand is lower than it!
Ted
The 12k hubs I have are using middle version of lock nuts which is very secure when done properly. If I can obtain REV B hubs or parts then I would go that route. It is relatively easy to change out hubs and steering link if I don't find the hubs/parts in time. The 2009 manual does not itemize the REV B hub, only the 12k one.
To pull the upper race in the hub, I use a slide hammer puller. Takes about 10 whacks and they pop out. Just NEVER let go of the hammer when your other hand is lower than it!
Ted
- Ted Gates
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- Posts: 2667
- Joined: Sun Dec 15, 2002 12:13 pm
- Location: Eaton Rapids, MI
Re: M1165 Build
Some noted differences in the frame:
Rear bumper/body brackets are secured with 5/8" bolts, not 1/2". Mid body brackets are secured with 5/8" bolt, not 1/2". Right front body bracket is secured with 5/8" bolt, not 1/2".
Front steering arms for REVs are different than 12K trucks. Rears are the same.
My frame is getting close to being ready but I am way behind in my build schedule. Oh well... Pictures after painting but before drive train setting.
Rear bumper/body brackets are secured with 5/8" bolts, not 1/2". Mid body brackets are secured with 5/8" bolt, not 1/2". Right front body bracket is secured with 5/8" bolt, not 1/2".
Front steering arms for REVs are different than 12K trucks. Rears are the same.
My frame is getting close to being ready but I am way behind in my build schedule. Oh well... Pictures after painting but before drive train setting.
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- G-Major
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- Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2007 10:47 pm
- Location: South East PA
Re: M1165 Build
Ted Gates wrote:Some noted differences in the frame:
Rear bumper/body brackets are secured with 5/8" bolts, not 1/2". Mid body brackets are secured with 5/8" bolt, not 1/2". Right front body bracket is secured with 5/8" bolt, not 1/2".
Front steering arms for REVs are different than 12K trucks. Rears are the same.
My frame is getting close to being ready but I am way behind in my build schedule. Oh well... Pictures after painting but before drive train setting.
I found another difference this weekend. The reinforcement plates that go between the rear cross-members on the inside are different - the big C-channel reinforcement and the inner plate that gets sandwiched between it and the inside of the rail. On earlier trucks the control arm bucket holes are sleeved and proud of the inside (they protrude) - so the inner plate has a cutout to go between the four CA holes. On the REV the sleeve holes are flush and the plate does not have that cutout. The C channel piece is different to leave room for the e-brake calipers and associated bracketry.
Ted if you need the inner plates I have two new ones that don't fit on my Hummer frame. I bought them knowing they were different from what I had as part of my wilwood retrofit - but they won't work on my non-REV frame. I had to use my old inner plates with the cutouts.
- Ted Gates
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- Posts: 2667
- Joined: Sun Dec 15, 2002 12:13 pm
- Location: Eaton Rapids, MI
Re: M1165 Build
Yeah, I noticed that too. Even the drawing is correct...go figure, most all are wrong but that one is good. I am good on the plates. Then there is the parking brake spring return brackets, on the front of the rear cross member secured by the upper spring perch bolts. The weight they subjected these thing to is crazy.
Also, I secured REV hubs so my freshly rebuilt 12K hubs with all new everything (bearings, races, seals, upper spur) are going to be up for sale to fund the REV ones.
Also, I secured REV hubs so my freshly rebuilt 12K hubs with all new everything (bearings, races, seals, upper spur) are going to be up for sale to fund the REV ones.
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- G-Major
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- Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2007 10:47 pm
- Location: South East PA
Re: M1165 Build
Yea,my, thanks for reminding me about those bracket! I remembered to install one but think I forgot to put the other in. It's all loose right now so no big deal.Ted Gates wrote:....(snip) Then there is the parking brake spring return brackets, on the front of the rear cross member secured by the upper spring perch. (Snip)
Also, I secured REV hubs so my freshly rebuilt 12K hubs with all new everything (bearings, races, seals, upper spur) are going to be up for sale to fund the REV ones.
Given the adjustability in the rear cross-member do you do anything special to position it in relation to the first before tightening everything down? Mount up a lower control arm?
Anything special about rebuilding a REV hub with the helical gears vs a traditional hub?
- Ted Gates
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- Posts: 2667
- Joined: Sun Dec 15, 2002 12:13 pm
- Location: Eaton Rapids, MI
Re: M1165 Build
Loose fit EVERYTHING. upper and lower a-arms both front and rear, towers, etc. Also front frame extensions and outside swivel shackle brackets. Plus the transfercase support crossbar. If you dont, you will get sick of turning big sockets and wrenches! Lol
I dont tighten the a-arms all the way. I wait until the frame has a load and then tighten. I think it helps with the bushings.
I dont tighten the a-arms all the way. I wait until the frame has a load and then tighten. I think it helps with the bushings.
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- G-Major
- Posts: 918
- Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2007 10:47 pm
- Location: South East PA
Re: M1165 Build
Thanks for the advice. Guess I need to loosen up the upper CA buckets I had already tightened. I built this Alpha frame up from individual components - my second from scratch. I have always waited to tighten up the lower a-arm until it was under load. In this truck and my last, I've switched to the smooth CA bushings - got tired of replacing CA buckets where the bushing teeth wore channels in the bucket. Off-roading it hard on the suspension.Ted Gates wrote:Loose fit EVERYTHING. upper and lower a-arms both front and rear, towers, etc. Also front frame extensions and outside swivel shackle brackets. Plus the transfercase support crossbar. If you dont, you will get sick of turning big sockets and wrenches! Lol
I dont tighten the a-arms all the way. I wait until the frame has a load and then tighten. I think it helps with the bushings.
- Ted Gates
- G-Major General
- Posts: 2667
- Joined: Sun Dec 15, 2002 12:13 pm
- Location: Eaton Rapids, MI
Re: M1165 Build
There is hockey puck shaped roof spacer, 2, used in the c pillar to fill the gap. Not in manuals that I have.
They are as follows:
Diameter is 1.886"
Thickness is 0.783"
Hole ID is 0.407"
Made of aluminum. Carc green.
You are still required to shim roof with slotted washers, book says 2 per location but your results may vary.
Pictures soon.
They are as follows:
Diameter is 1.886"
Thickness is 0.783"
Hole ID is 0.407"
Made of aluminum. Carc green.
You are still required to shim roof with slotted washers, book says 2 per location but your results may vary.
Pictures soon.
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