Brain by pass discussion

[dcartledge]

I'm getting 28 volts at the batteries.

Maybe I'm confused but I thought that when the gauge went into the red the voltage is too high and when in the yellow it is too low.

Batteries are staying up so I don't think the output is the issue - I think it is somehow in the regulator not clamping the voltage and keeping it in the proper range,
d

[TheHummerguy]

My bad.....if it,s an over voltage...still very well a bad generator. Bad regulator.

[dcartledge]

Swapping out generator - we'll see....

[Urban Camo]

Thanks to all that paved the way for me I just succesfully ground hopped my new 6.5 N/A .
It was a thing of beauty and a joyfull noise.
No brain no glow plugs no vehicle.
I used the HMMWV to bring life to the new replacement power pack.
UC

[TheHummerguy]

Huh?

[Urban Camo]

Huh? Huh!!

[86humv]

And.....HuH, HuH, HuH....

[Brian Wang]

I wish i had been abke to read this thread 2 years ago! It would have cleared up so much confusion when i couldnt get mine to start up.

As for me, i just thought i might add, ive found 6 shots of tequila works pretty well for brain bypassing.

[dcartledge]

Changed out generator - voltage sways into red zone appear to be gone.

Thanks for all your input.

d

[Augi]

What I have going on is kinda strange.

The gauge will do the cycle into yellow when the glow plugs are doing their thing but after I'm driving on the highway, sitting at a traffic light - most anytime the gauge will just go into the red - at night I can tell because it looks like my headlights went to bright from dim setting. After a little while it will go back into the green.

Can you change just the regulator or do you have change the entire alternator?
d

I am having a problem that sounds similar to this.

I have the yellow label SSI box in the pictured.




With the old 60amp alternator installed (how the truck was from the factory), once in a while after starting while the glow plugs were still cycling (the voltage gauge drops and the lights dim once every second or so), as I increased the RPM of the engine, the base level voltage output from the alternator (before the dips from the glow plugs) increased until the gauge was in the red on the high side. I know it was real and not a gauge thing because the headlights would get brighter too.

I'd shut off the truck and restart it and it would go away.

Now that I've put in a 200amp dual voltage alternator, every time I start the truck it does this. I can't go more than 5mph until the glow cycle ends because the voltage is off the top of the gauge if I step on the gas and I don't want to burn anything out.

Once the glow cycle ends (with the old alternator and with the new one) everything is normal and the voltage gauge is steady right on the little tick mark in the green.

Is this a problem with the PCB or what? I have read that the ESSS boxes don't cause a voltage dip when cycling the glow plugs anymore. Maybe that will also prevent the voltage rise?


Augi

[Action]

I thought the voltage changes while the plugs cycle is normal. I just sat there for a moment until it finished before driving. Whenever you start and do not have to wait for thr WAIT light, then the plugs shouldn't cycle because the engine is already warm.

and the voltage gauge is pegged right on the little tick mark in the green

Are you saying it is in the green where it should be? I am thrown off by the word PEGGED in that sentence.

Jason

[Augi]

I thought the voltage changes while the plugs cycle is normal. I just sat there for a moment until it finished before driving. Whenever you start and do not have to wait for thr WAIT light, then the plugs shouldn't cycle because the engine is already warm.

and the voltage gauge is pegged right on the little tick mark in the green

Are you saying it is in the green where it should be? I am thrown off by the word PEGGED in that sentence.

Jason

Sorry, yes it stays in the green. Doesn't waver from the little tic mark at the upper end of the green area.

Augi

[TheHummerguy]

The only EESS that does not perform "After GLow" are the New S3 EESS, All the KDS boxes I have/Had perform after Glow for 2mins after Cold Start where the wait light was required to come on. If your Gauge is reading Funky I would check the actual voltages at the Gen or Batteries while this is Occuring.
My slantback still has a KDS EESS non S3 and it does what yours does...for 2 mins on cold start, I just let it finish and drive off.