Paint Prep

[TheHummerguy]

My Black Slantback is now stripped down to Aluminum...wow, What a B***H...Lots of Jasco Paint Stripper. Now that I have this nice gold'ish Aluminum, what Prep
do I need for re=Paint? My plan is to use an Epoxy Primer and then CARC...My Question is more Metal Prep for the Epoxy Primer.
The Aluminum is slicker then Snot, I see no sort of etching, so How did that epoxy primer applied at the factory adhere?
I don't want to blast or sand of the gold color stuff that was applied...I beleive it is protective coating.
Anyway....

[icentropy]

My Black Slantback is now stripped down to Aluminum...wow, What a B***H...Lots of Jasco Paint Stripper. Now that I have this nice gold'ish Aluminum, what Prep
do I need for re=Paint? My plan is to use an Epoxy Primer and then CARC...My Question is more Metal Prep for the Epoxy Primer.
The Aluminum is slicker then Snot, I see no sort of etching, so How did that epoxy primer applied at the factory adhere?
I don't want to blast or sand of the gold color stuff that was applied...I beleive it is protective coating.
Anyway....

The "gold color stuff" is Chemfilm (alodine). it's a chemical process that protects the very outer layer of the aluminum. careful cause it scratches easy. Primer sticks to that stuff very well if it's clean and ready. Primer doesn't still to bare aluminum very well mostly cause it instantly starts oxidizing as soon as you sand, blast or cut it and there's no practical way to get primer on before the oxidation starts. I have no idea what type (if any) of contamination was done to the alodine using paint strippers so i can't say for sure that your primer will stick, but i can say that at my work we have to have our parts chemfilmed and primed. The process is machine parts, then they go to the processhouse for chemfilm and are then kept clean until they're primed. There's nothing in between the chemfilm and primer but the chemfilm is fresh and clean with no contamination on it.

[Loki]

The quick easy answer is to use "self etching primer".

I have painted several of these trucks and if you don't use the self etching primer on the bare (or actually gold colored) aluminum, you will have a great paintjob that you can peal off like a sheet when it gets chipped.

Rick V...

[Action]

How did you remove the CARC with paint stripper? Or, was the CARC already gone when it was painted black?

Jason

[TheHummerguy]

I used Jasco paint remover..in Gel Form. The truck had a Spray Liner over the Entire truck..inside and Out.
I am removing all of it on the outside only. Leaving the Truck Bed and Foot wells with Liner, but it will get painted green.
I don;t mind that liner on the inside, especially since this truck will be a 2 door pickup.
I place on using an wash on the bare metal, then an etching primer,Most likely an Epoxy primer, then CARC.
I spoke with the guy at Neds Auto paint supply house and he said this was all fine.
I want to use Alodine first on the bare Aluminum.

[TheHummerguy]

Picked up ppg epoxy primer,reducer and hardner today....alodine is not available i calif i am told. Now the issue is....ppg epoxy prumer cannot be used of etched primer. This is a real pita.....i dont recommend taking down to bare aluminum, but it wasnt much of a choice being the previous owner used that bedliner crap over the entire truck.
While it will look great, i am frankly of the belief that unless i find milspec alodine,epoxy primer for use on the primer.im somewhat screwd.
My buddy looking for his alodine....be he ran out of the epoxy primer.
Anyone have the real mccoy?

[86humv]

On Aircraft aluminum repairs....we wet sand it with water using red scotch brite, then wash it off with clean water { DI water }, then alodine it with 1200 for 2 to 3 minutes keeping it wet, then washing it off with water before alodine dries, then wipe it clean. On aircraft they use a water based epoxy type primer over the alodined finish. Sticks good.
I got some alodine from a body shop supply a few years ago. I'll look at what I have this weekend.
I sanded down my tail gate and alodined the bare spots, then used self etching black primer, and when cured, then used epoxy primer....all from auto paint supply shop.

[icentropy]

86Humv is exactly right on the process.

Here's your alodine (be careful, wear gloves and protective eyewear/clothing, it's not supposed to touch skin)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/c ... ne1201.php

We use primer per MIL-PRF-85582 TYPE I, CLASS C2 on top of the chemfilm (alodine). It's Deft 44GN072.
http://www.deftfinishes.com/industrial/ ... /44gn072-0

How much primer do you need?

[TheHummerguy]

Greg, Ice, thank you

I ordered a Gallon of ALUMIPREP #33 and a Gallon of ALODINE 1201, Now I just need to get me some Epoxy Primer that can be applied over this Treatment.
Just in case anyone wants to know, You need just about a Gallon to paint an entire HMMWV with Base Coat. I beleive I used only a Quart of Epoxy Primer on my last Truck a few years ago....But the Primer has a Hardner and Reducer that gets added to it.

[icentropy]

Greg, Ice, thank you

I ordered a Gallon of ALUMIPREP #33 and a Gallon of ALODINE 1201, Now I just need to get me some Epoxy Primer that can be applied over this Treatment.
Just in case anyone wants to know, You need just about a Gallon to paint an entire HMMWV with Base Coat. I beleive I used only a Quart of Epoxy Primer on my last Truck a few years ago....But the Primer has a Hardner and Reducer that gets added to it.

The Deft paint is water reduceable. If you're interested in it, i may have some in my stock i can snag, let me know how many "quart kits" you want.

[TheHummerguy]

I Sure am....Please let me Know ASAP if you have any you would like to part with, I figure I need maybe 2 quarts? Does this include Catalyst? I know it is Reduced with Water......PM if you Like.

[TheHummerguy]

i few progress Pics.....The Hood stripping has been pretty easy, seems the Hood was NOS, not a crack or damaged area repaired, they Line-X'd right onto it, no previous paint, so it has been easy to get the old stuff off, Now the rest of the Truck has been tough in some areas, but in others the Jasco has gone right to Bare Metal in 15min.

[TheHummerguy]

So, I have ordered 2 Gals of Green, 2 Black and 1 Brn of the Sherwin Williams CARC...it is Single Stage Type 9.
I beleive the Type 9 is a little finer, not as Course as the TYPE 1 or 2. I have a few Gallons of Type 1 and it lays down quite thick.
Quite a porous texture.
I also ordered a gallon of the Epoxy Primer, it has Corrosion Inhibitors.....So in a week or so I should have all my paint, Alumi-Prep and Alodine are here.
The truck is still getting stripped to the Bone, Saturday the Hood will get its final prep and Sanding, I have all the LineX removed and there were a few dime
size gouges I need to fill in with Fiberglass Resin, other than that the Hood was NOS...., the Hood had not one previous repair or crack, nicest hood I have seen
in all the years of working on these Trucks.

[Ted Gates]

NIce Steve. Maybe I should have kept that one! Looks good though.

Here is a picture of SW type 9 carc on a 1038 I had.

[TheHummerguy]

Looks Sweet.....I called SW Tech Line, He says the Type 9 is not Silica based, they cannot produce it with Silica base any longer he says.
SO the Type 9 is a Polymer, the Type 1 was Silica Based.