HMMWV body work
Moderator: Kurt Lesser
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HMMWV body work
Hey guys,
I picked up a "clean" 93 from that "usedH1" guy. Finally got around to putting the X Doors and Slant back on and the front left door is 1" too LONG. Or rather the door opening is 1" small. My guess is the thing was rolled. I have the B pillar fixed but the fire wall needs to go 1" forward. I put a porta power in and pushed it forward but the thing is like a spring. I have done body work but it’s like the thing is alive. I tried to drill out some of the rivets to give it room to flex but like I said it just pulls right back.
Any ideas on this thing or any one that is good at fixing these?
-Tony
I picked up a "clean" 93 from that "usedH1" guy. Finally got around to putting the X Doors and Slant back on and the front left door is 1" too LONG. Or rather the door opening is 1" small. My guess is the thing was rolled. I have the B pillar fixed but the fire wall needs to go 1" forward. I put a porta power in and pushed it forward but the thing is like a spring. I have done body work but it’s like the thing is alive. I tried to drill out some of the rivets to give it room to flex but like I said it just pulls right back.
Any ideas on this thing or any one that is good at fixing these?
-Tony
- dilvoy
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Re: HMMWV body work
The aluminum used on these body tubs is tempered so it is springy. You would have to bend it way past where you want it to rest at and that is not usually possible with how other panels are attached in that area. Think of it as an airplane fuselage. Drill out rivets on affected panels and replace panels.
George D. Paxinos
M998
M1123A2
M998
M1123A2
- dunsbr
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Re: HMMWV body work
Phil's Autobody in Mishawaka IN is the go to guy for Hummer repairs.
He is next to the AMG plant and, IIRC, did factory repairs for AMG.
A Dilvoy said, panel beating 6 series Aluminium is hard work....
cheers
He is next to the AMG plant and, IIRC, did factory repairs for AMG.
A Dilvoy said, panel beating 6 series Aluminium is hard work....
cheers
Brad Dunstan
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)
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- G-Sergeant
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Re: HMMWV body work
Thanks Guys,
I'm going to keep them in mind. I might get a new tub for this truck and when I take it off see if any one can salvage it.
I got it a little better. Or at least the doors fit!
I drilled the rivets and pulled the firewall a full 2" past and tried to peen it with a hammer but only gained 1/8. So I pulled it 1/4 pasts, re riveted and added a few. Then slapped a 3/8 armor plate over the top. That ought to hold it forward.
-Tony
I'm going to keep them in mind. I might get a new tub for this truck and when I take it off see if any one can salvage it.
I got it a little better. Or at least the doors fit!
I drilled the rivets and pulled the firewall a full 2" past and tried to peen it with a hammer but only gained 1/8. So I pulled it 1/4 pasts, re riveted and added a few. Then slapped a 3/8 armor plate over the top. That ought to hold it forward.
-Tony
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- Sergeant Major of the Gee
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Re: HMMWV body work
Does anyone know what type of body rivets our trucks use and where to get them?
- dunsbr
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Re: HMMWV body work
I bought 2,000 off and ebay a few months ago Travis....axemann wrote:Does anyone know what type of body rivets our trucks use and where to get them?
How many do you need?
Cheers
Brad Dunstan
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)
RHD '87 M1026
(with 4L80E Trans, 242 T/case, 12K hubs, CTIS, A2 wiring, Air Con, A2 ebrake, 9k Winch,
Serpentine Belt Accessory Drive & Eaton e-lockers)
- Kurt Lesser
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Re: HMMWV body work
The rivets used on the HMMWVs are Cherrymax brand rivets. The majority of them are 3/16" in diameter, which is a -6 rivet in Cherrymax's nomenclature. There are typically used on aircraft because of their strength but you need to be careful when buying them. They have a specific grip length and should be purchased based on what you're putting together. Here's a link to their home page with lots of good information about them:
http://www.cherryaerospace.com/files/pd ... A-1011.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I've used a Cherrymax pneumatic puller on mine because you get consistancy but you can use a good manual puller just as well. Stay away from the cheap (Chinese) pullers, I've had bad luck with them.
Removing old rivets is done best with a rivet shaver. I've got a pneumatic one but there are simpler ones that mount in an air drill to use. They do seem to work better in higher speed drills. They shave the head off the rivet to the panel surface and allow you to use a punch to knock out the old body. Drilling works but if you get off center you end up with a "siamesed" hole that doesn't allow the new rivet to grip properly.
I've gotten rivets directly from Government Liquidation, bought them locally, and off of eBay. The USAF dumps them because they are date coded in their system. I got curious about that because how does a rivet get out of date? I was told it isn't the rivet itself that ages, it's the lubricant used when they are manufactured that ages and causes inconsistant pulls. While this might make a difference at 30,000 feet I don't think we'll have the same problems. If in doubt, just dip them in WD-40 or Kroil for a minute before you use them.
"POP" rivets will work for things like rubber moldings but I wouldn't advise their use for panel assembly.
Kurt
KG6KMJ
http://www.cherryaerospace.com/files/pd ... A-1011.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I've used a Cherrymax pneumatic puller on mine because you get consistancy but you can use a good manual puller just as well. Stay away from the cheap (Chinese) pullers, I've had bad luck with them.
Removing old rivets is done best with a rivet shaver. I've got a pneumatic one but there are simpler ones that mount in an air drill to use. They do seem to work better in higher speed drills. They shave the head off the rivet to the panel surface and allow you to use a punch to knock out the old body. Drilling works but if you get off center you end up with a "siamesed" hole that doesn't allow the new rivet to grip properly.
I've gotten rivets directly from Government Liquidation, bought them locally, and off of eBay. The USAF dumps them because they are date coded in their system. I got curious about that because how does a rivet get out of date? I was told it isn't the rivet itself that ages, it's the lubricant used when they are manufactured that ages and causes inconsistant pulls. While this might make a difference at 30,000 feet I don't think we'll have the same problems. If in doubt, just dip them in WD-40 or Kroil for a minute before you use them.
"POP" rivets will work for things like rubber moldings but I wouldn't advise their use for panel assembly.
Kurt
KG6KMJ
Kurt Lesser
US Navy, 1969-1975
M996A1 Ambulance w/M101A3 Trailer
M274A2 Mule
M151A1 Mutt w/M416B1 Trailer
M890 Crew cab
US Navy, 1969-1975
M996A1 Ambulance w/M101A3 Trailer
M274A2 Mule
M151A1 Mutt w/M416B1 Trailer
M890 Crew cab
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Re: HMMWV body work
How do you "pull" a solid rivet?
Tony, Do you have a handrail for a softtop? I am curious to know how far off the distance is from the top of the windshield frame to the b-pillar. The mounting holes of the handrail would be a really easy way to see that.
Jason
Tony, Do you have a handrail for a softtop? I am curious to know how far off the distance is from the top of the windshield frame to the b-pillar. The mounting holes of the handrail would be a really easy way to see that.
Jason
- Kurt Lesser
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Re: HMMWV body work
Jason,
You don't pull a solid rivet. They get "bucked" where there is an anvil to hold pressure on the rivet and either a hammer with a "bucking bar" or a pneumatic tool to do the same thing. The other option if you have access to both sides of the material is to use a rivet squeezer. It just compresses the rivet and flares the ends. There are some solid rivets in the HMMWV in areas where they need maximum strength but the majority of what we have holding these things together are Cherrymax rivets.
There are certainly other blind rivet manufacturers out there that you can use, just be careful crossing part numbers. I believe that the part numbers for all the rivets used in the HMMWVs are listed in an appendix in one of the manuals along with the tools they recommend.
Kurt
You don't pull a solid rivet. They get "bucked" where there is an anvil to hold pressure on the rivet and either a hammer with a "bucking bar" or a pneumatic tool to do the same thing. The other option if you have access to both sides of the material is to use a rivet squeezer. It just compresses the rivet and flares the ends. There are some solid rivets in the HMMWV in areas where they need maximum strength but the majority of what we have holding these things together are Cherrymax rivets.
There are certainly other blind rivet manufacturers out there that you can use, just be careful crossing part numbers. I believe that the part numbers for all the rivets used in the HMMWVs are listed in an appendix in one of the manuals along with the tools they recommend.
Kurt
Kurt Lesser
US Navy, 1969-1975
M996A1 Ambulance w/M101A3 Trailer
M274A2 Mule
M151A1 Mutt w/M416B1 Trailer
M890 Crew cab
US Navy, 1969-1975
M996A1 Ambulance w/M101A3 Trailer
M274A2 Mule
M151A1 Mutt w/M416B1 Trailer
M890 Crew cab
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Re: HMMWV body work
I know how the solid rivets are used. We did some body work to the last tub I had. I asked about pulling them, because Kurt mentioned that in his post above. I thought the cherrymax rivets are solid, then you mentioned getting a good puller.
Jason
Jason
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Re: HMMWV body work
I know its old, but here's the list. Sorry, no amounts though.
HMMWV Rivet list from the 24P-2
CAGE PART # STOCK #
11815 CR3213-6-5 5320-01-084-9235
11815 CR3213-6-6 5320-01-084-9234
11815 CR3212-6-3 5320-01-084-6101
11815 CR3212-6-5 5320-01-136-1787
11815 CR3212-6-7 5320-01-086-1147
11815 CR3213-4-3 5320-01-138-4239
11815 CR3213-6-1 5320-01-085-1755
11815 CR3213-6-2 5320-01-143-5075
11815 CR3213-6-3 5320-01-135-7319
11815 CR3213-6-4 5320-01-136-1782
11815 CR3213-6-5 5320-01-084-9235
11815 CR3213-6-7 5320-01-085-9995
11815 CR3213-6-8 5320-01-086-1144
11815 CR3213-6-9 5320-01-086-1143
11815 CR3242-6-2 5320-01-033-8643
11815 CR3242-6-4 5320-01-033-9126
11815 CR3243-6-3 5320-01-033-8638
11815 CR3243-6-4 5320-01-033-8637
11815 CR3243-6-5 5320-01-034-1884
HMMWV Rivet list from the 24P-2
CAGE PART # STOCK #
11815 CR3213-6-5 5320-01-084-9235
11815 CR3213-6-6 5320-01-084-9234
11815 CR3212-6-3 5320-01-084-6101
11815 CR3212-6-5 5320-01-136-1787
11815 CR3212-6-7 5320-01-086-1147
11815 CR3213-4-3 5320-01-138-4239
11815 CR3213-6-1 5320-01-085-1755
11815 CR3213-6-2 5320-01-143-5075
11815 CR3213-6-3 5320-01-135-7319
11815 CR3213-6-4 5320-01-136-1782
11815 CR3213-6-5 5320-01-084-9235
11815 CR3213-6-7 5320-01-085-9995
11815 CR3213-6-8 5320-01-086-1144
11815 CR3213-6-9 5320-01-086-1143
11815 CR3242-6-2 5320-01-033-8643
11815 CR3242-6-4 5320-01-033-9126
11815 CR3243-6-3 5320-01-033-8638
11815 CR3243-6-4 5320-01-033-8637
11815 CR3243-6-5 5320-01-034-1884
1994 HMMWV M998A1
1995 HMMWV M1025A2 GMV
2002 HMMWV M1024A2 GMV
2001 HMMWV M1043A2
2001 HMMWV M1123
2000 JD M-Gator
2001 Kawasaki M1030B1 (650)
2000 Kawasaki M1030M1
1995 HMMWV M1025A2 GMV
2002 HMMWV M1024A2 GMV
2001 HMMWV M1043A2
2001 HMMWV M1123
2000 JD M-Gator
2001 Kawasaki M1030B1 (650)
2000 Kawasaki M1030M1
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Re: HMMWV body work
The aluminum in the tub can be straightened small amounts but if you're doing major deflection you will need to anneal it so that it doesn't work harden and crack. David Kirkham put out a good training video back in 2011 that is an excellent resource for straightening aluminum.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9moYO-WWhaQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9moYO-WWhaQ
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