New M37 - Getting her rolling - Advice needed

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Ez8
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New M37 - Getting her rolling - Advice needed

Post by Ez8 » Thu Jul 06, 2017 9:59 am

Last Saturday I picked up a beautiful 1963 Dodge M37 (pickup truck version, don't know the technical name - not an ambulance). It appears to be 99% original. The guy I bought it from bought it in the early 90's from Vintage Power Wagons of Fairfield, Iowa and said he drove it up until about 10 years ago when he parked it and let it sit. I don't plan to do any major restoration to it, just get it running and enjoy it since it has a nice patina and is pretty original.

That being said, I'm getting a checklist together for what I need to do to it prior to first start and I'd appreciate any advice you guys can provide.

Checklist (in no particular order):

1. Change oil -> What oil should I be using? I'm assuming I'll change to non-detergent 30wt, but I'll need something with ZDDP in it.
2. Drop Fuel tank and inspect for flaking
3. Brakes -> currently brake pedal goes all the way to the floor. I'll be diagnosing this in the coming days. I want to change the brake fluid to DOT5 for it's hydrophobic properties.
4. Transmission / transfer case oil change. GL4 to protect the yellow metals?
5. Charge batteries -> already done. Engine DOES crank over freely.

Your help is appreciated.
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Re: New M37 - Getting her rolling - Advice needed

Post by dpcd67 » Fri Jul 07, 2017 9:19 am

I have the truck that was sitting next to yours; got it in 1994 from Vintage; they had a row of 20 of them back then. A 63 as well. They are Truck Cargo 3/4 ton; look on your data plate and it will tell you what it is. The best military vehicle for collectors and drivers; far better than the toy jeeps that everyone likes; never understood why but I have 4 of them. I have owned a few M37s but am down to one now.
I use 10-30 or 40.
Brakes; I always just replace wheel cylinders and master cylinder; that way you know the condition. I always use silicone on totally new systems I install.
Fuel tank; had mine Rhino Renued by Vintage.
Trans; I have GL5 in mine that said it is safe for yellow metals on the bottle, but GL4 might be better and now I know where to get it. Napa.
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Re: New M37 - Getting her rolling - Advice needed

Post by Ez8 » Fri Jul 07, 2017 11:11 am

I'm looking forward to getting this truck running and take it out for a cruise. A couple of people about broke their necks whipping around to see what it was as I drove past with it on the car hauler.

dpcd67, what brand of oil are you using in your M37? This engine has not been rebuilt (to my knowledge) so I'm concerned that floating some new detergent oil through it will cause me serious heartache. The previous owner said Vintage Power Wagons replaced the radiator and fuel tank and that was it.

Last night I found what I suspect to be a major brake line leak: pealing paint on the rear diff near the brake lines, discolored spots where brake fluid seems to have set for a period of time, etc. I'll probably just replaced the master, slaves, and metal lines. The rubber appears to be in good shape. It is still pliable and there's no obvious wear marks.
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Re: New M37 - Getting her rolling - Advice needed

Post by dpcd67 » Fri Jul 07, 2017 1:57 pm

I use Walmart oil; whatever is on sale. Most of these trucks have very low miles and have no sludge buildup and I never had a problem with that.
Replace the rubber lines too.
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Re: New M37 - Getting her rolling - Advice needed

Post by Ez8 » Fri Jul 07, 2017 6:57 pm

I'll take your advice and replace the rubber brake lines. After thinking it through, it's cheaper than insurance going up or a hospital bill for someone.

I was able to drop the fuel tank tonight and it's a mess inside. I think I'm just going to send it to Vintage as a core for a refurbished one. Luckily, I noticed there's an in-line fuel filter just after the tank, so hopefully if I replace that I'll be all set.

Also, looking at the title, this one was bought from Vintage in 1994. Maybe you and the PO passed each other on the way out the door.
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Re: New M37 - Getting her rolling - Advice needed

Post by dpcd67 » Sat Jul 08, 2017 9:17 am

Maybe.
There is a big round fuel filter in the tank surrounding the fuel pickup. They make new ones but they are quite expensive so I use in line filters, and or put one in the tank on a rubber hose.
I only use zinc additive, (Lucas), and/or break in oil, on newly rebuilt engines. Have not had a problem with old engines. Wouldn't hurt though.
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Re: New M37 - Getting her rolling - Advice needed

Post by wc56daveyboy » Sun Jul 09, 2017 5:18 am

As an owner of a 63 m37b1 truck ( that's the actual model of yours too...)
I can tell you these are nice compact workhorses!!
The truck is tough. Ride is decent as compared to other military trucks, and you have room to sit and drive as well as cargo space for real hauling.

For another web site related foley to these trucks, see here:

http://www.g741.org/PHPBB/

So you read the good. I can also tell you that any truck that has sat for any length of time I would inspect and plan on replacing the ENTIRE brake system right off.

Not knowing where it was stored (outside? In grass or field? Damp conditions?) for the last ten years may have
Weakened those metal lines as well. Even if they look sound, they may be full
Of rust inside. A flush is necessary at a minimum before putting rust contaminated fluid thru your new master and wheel cylinders. I would highly recomend all the metal lines as well as all components get replaced at this time.

If your planning on driving it on public roads safety first is always best.

Now.. Your fuel system... Another place you don't want to go cheap. Trust me: replace or renew it all!
I tried. I got the lines cleaned, the tank relined, and the NOS carb installed BEFORE the new metal lines. Mistake!
Metal fuel lines were rusty inside, sending fine rust particles up to and they my brand new carb!
It was a miserable experience finding my carb full of rust dust after spending so much $$.

Your last post indicated a very rusty fuel tank. Suprize suprize.
That's only one component that you need to address.

These later models with in tank filters also require attention. Get the stainless steel inline filter too.

I can also tell u that complete fuel systems, end to end, are costly. So are brakes when done right and 100% correct.
My advice from someone who was (still is) there: replace it all.

Still, if this is your dream ride and you plan to keep it any length of time go thru it all and you will be able to enjoy it worry free!

I will caution, however, that if you DO everything correctly and replace it all, don't expect a good return on investment with your m 37 truck. I also know this very well. Unless you got the truck really cheap to begin with?

I know that I can recoup my money, possibly even a good extra on my 1941 dodge wc12.
I can also get my money back on The ww2 jeep I have.

But I know I can't on my m37. The market prices won't hold true for every dollar spent (my experience)
So this had better be a project you love and intend to keep a long while!

i would have sold ya mine at a pretty decent Loss to me. Over 10k invested. I would take 7k!!

http://www.g741.org/PHPBB/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=7391

Now I hope I'm not discouraging you, as these are fine trucks! Don't get me wrong. Just money in don't equal money out all the time.

I know that this opinion of mine may spark debate on the m37 value, again only my opinion.

I wish you great luck with your project. Feel free to contact me with questions. I been there done that so might be able to help when you get deeper into yours.

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Re: New M37 - Getting her rolling - Advice needed

Post by Ez8 » Sun Jul 09, 2017 11:51 am

Thankfully, I didn't pay very much for this M37 and it's in wonderful condition. I could probably flip it tomorrow and make my money back and then some (not that it's my plan to).

Thanks for the advice on the fuel lines. It reminded me that I'll need to rebuild the carb as well.

As far as the cost. Eh, that's what money is for, right? Spending on things that make you happy (once you take care of the bills, retirement savings, etc.) I like to think of it in terms of "smiles per gallon." At the end of the day this is my hobby and it makes me happy to wrench on these old vehicles.
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Re: New M37 - Getting her rolling - Advice needed

Post by dpcd67 » Mon Jul 10, 2017 7:35 am

Rule #1; never add up the cost of a restoration. It is still cheaper than therapy. Rule Number One; never tell your wife what it costs; she will freak out. I know, two rules number one.
I have two restos going at once right now. And one in waiting.
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Re: New M37 - Getting her rolling - Advice needed

Post by Ez8 » Mon Jul 10, 2017 7:45 am

dpcd67 wrote:Rule #1; never add up the cost of a restoration. It is still cheaper than therapy. Rule Number One; never tell your wife what it costs; she will freak out. I know, two rules number one.
I have two restos going at once right now. And one in waiting.
Wise words from someone who has been at this for a long time, no doubt. :D

New question: Is there anything that I need to be careful of when removing the wheels from this vehicle? I realize these aren't the "widow-maker" Firestone split rims (I think these are Goodyear LT something or other "locking rims"), but anything with a seam in the rim gives me pause. Can I just loosen the lug nuts and take the wheel off or is there a special procedure?
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Re: New M37 - Getting her rolling - Advice needed

Post by wc56daveyboy » Tue Jul 11, 2017 5:34 am

U can certainly remove the wheel and rim assembly as a unit from the hub in complete safety.

I am assuming this is your question...

There are five lug nuts per wheel/tire assembly holding it to the trucks hub.
Remember that the left side may have left hand nuts.

So yes to your question. Remove the lug nuts and take off the wheel and tire as a unit.

This will give you access to your hubs where the fun begins!
Better get a TM if you have never done a lot of mechanical work.
These trucks are simple, but still it's nice to see the stack up in a picture as to what to remove.

You will need a hub but wrench for the large bearing retaining nuts. Available from all the suppliers like
Vintage power wagons or John bizal at Midwest military.
Although you CAN remove these nuts without one using a chisel and hammer. No doubt you will see evidence of this type
Of work when you get to these nuts.

Trying to dismount the tire from the rim is another story. Best left to tire shops to do.
Trying to re-inflate a new tire onto a rim with the lock ring is very dangerous work for the inexperienced.
I put myself in that category as well. I do NOT play with tires and rims. I leave this to professional tire shops.

This is where they are dangerous: upon assembly of the split lock ring onto the rim.
If not seated perfectly the split ring (lock ring) can fly off after air pressure is applied.

Most shops have a tire cage to catch any flying rings when being aired up

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Re: New M37 - Getting her rolling - Advice needed

Post by dpcd67 » Tue Jul 11, 2017 7:25 am

As davey said; yes you can easily remove the wheels from your truck but you will never be able to remove the tires. I have used many methods; run them over with a Power wagon; cut them off with a chain saw, broken a few pry bars, but we have a shop here that will do it for me. Now, putting them back together is easy, and safe, mostly. I have never had a ring come off. Might put the ring toward the ground. Best to have someone else do it if you are not really brave/stupid. A cage will work; we had those in the Army but I still had a mechanic break his arm on a 2 1/2 ton wheel because he didn't use the cage. Chains around the wheel will work too.
I just go for it. I am not telling you to though.
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Re: New M37 - Getting her rolling - Advice needed

Post by dpcd67 » Tue Jul 11, 2017 7:28 am

The wheels are Budd; not Firestone or Goodyear.
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