Sold WC-12 W-231808

[Dozerman51]

Great work on the steering gear Ozzie. You shouldn’t have any lubricant leakage problems at all.

[17thAirborne]

Great work on the steering gear Ozzie. You shouldn’t have any lubricant leakage problems at all.

I followed your advice and glad I did. you could see how grimy that NOS box was. It's a good lesson for me to remember that just 'cause it's NOS, does not mean it is ready to bolt on. Now that the innards are clean it rotates much more smoothly. just have to sort out how I'm going to mate the G506 sleeve to the box and fill with oil.

[17thAirborne]

post script xmsn: don''t forget to remove the rear yoke retaining nut BEFORE you begin removal of the transmission. It is a lot more difficult once everything is stripped off and there is nothing to grip on to to get some torque on that large 1.315" socket. It is now removed and I'm ready to work on the transmission tear down.

[17thAirborne]

Had a few hours before Christmas family fun begins so I got dirty The transmission is now taken apart.
I removed the cover revealing the inside condition.
I took off the rear bearing retainer cover and it's 5 bolts.

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[17thAirborne]

Next I removed the front bearing cover, the bearing retaining ring and the bearing.
This allowed me to slide out the long shaft and the two gears.

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[17thAirborne]

In order to get the cluster out you need to remove the reverse fork and shaft. Then you can move the back part of the cluster into the rear access hole and slide the large gear up through the cover hole.
I then drove out the reverse shaft with a soft drift and removed the shaft and reverse gear.

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[17thAirborne]

Ready for cleaning.

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[17thAirborne]

Final cleaning and priming of the transmission case. I placed the case in a mix of hot soapy water and brushed all of the remaining grime away. I used some electro clean to remove any small pockets of grime on the inside and dried it well with a heat gun. I chased the threads and removed the long studs on the side of the PTO mount so that bolts can be replaced to secure the opening with a NOS cover. I taped off all of the mating and gasket surfaces and primed the case. Once the assembly is done I will shoot the whole thing with OD. I still have to tackle the cover assembly following the same procedure as the transmission.

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[17thAirborne]

A little more work. Getting closer to starting the assembly.

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[17thAirborne]

Here is the last of the transmission and hand brake cleaning (except the top cover, it's soaking). I think I have everything available to start the build with a few small parts to order to spruce up the hand brake. I have a new brake pad and just need a few springs, cotters and pins.I also decided to take out the speedometer drive gear and clean out all of the grime. The hand brake drum cleaned up nicely with some 400grit. I'll use it like this. With the new pad everything should hold just fine.

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[17thAirborne]

Today was Transmission assembly day, part 1. Had lots of errands, so the progress is not complete. The TM is very vague regarding assembly, so I used the disassembly procedure in reverse. I dry fitted everything before going final, just to make sure everything fit properly. The part numbers on the images correspond to the part numbers in the instructions. If using this as a guide, sit at your computer with the TM opened to the parts diagram.

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(l) The bushing in the reverse idler was worn to the point that there was a very noticeable side-to-side play in the shaft. The difference between the shaft and the ID of the bushing was 0.0135" I could find no reference to what is appropriate for a gear on a shaft, so I called Steve at VPW. he suggested around 0.010" as a max to ensure room for the expansion of the bushing due to heat, yet enough room for oil to flow nicely. The bearing had three axial grooves and a center band grove for oil flow. The length of the bushing is slightly less than that of the gear, so I pressed it on slightly below the surface on each side. Once pressed in the bushing was smaller than the shaft, so using my expandable reamers, I opened it up from 0.9765" to 0.9920" and with the shaft at 0.9875" I have a difference of 0.0045" The gear spins freely on the shaft with absolutely no binding. I did not want to open the bushing up any more than that. When installing the shaft, I put the shaft lock in the rear grove and used that as a guide to ensure the shaft lock lined up with the hole. The press into the front part of the case is tight, and if the shaft is cocked off it will be impossible to turn to align the grove in the rear of the shaft. I used permatex in the front hole and on the rear portion of the shaft.

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[17thAirborne]

Next step

(k) To install the counter shaft and gears, I made a harness using zip ties so that I could lower it into the case and lift as required to align the shaft. the counter shaft cluster (counter shaft gears) has the space already in the middle, so i cleaned and lubed the two roller bearings and installed them before slipping them into the case. To get it into the case I find it easiest to tip the rear of the cluster down and into the rear bearing hole, then lower the front into the case and rotate it level. Then lower it gently to the bottom of the case and leave it until you are ready to install the shaft.

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[17thAirborne]

Next step

(j) Installing the reverse fork, shaft and cotter pin are fairly straight forward. The shaft has a groove which allows the cotter pin to fit into the hole. As you install the shaft, keep checking through the cotter pin hole as you get close to make sure the grove is aligned. This way you wont overshoot.

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[17thAirborne]

(i) Now that the reverse fork is in you can install the countershaft as the cluster is already laying on the bottom of the case with the spacer and bearings installed. The shaft was installed using the same procedure as with the reverse idler gear shaft. Permatex on both ends, use the shaft lock plate to keep the grove at the proper orientation.

(h) with the shaft installed and the gear spinning freely, you can install the lock plate and bolt.

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[17thAirborne]

Before moving onto the next step tomorrow, I prepared the hand brake band support (52) by cleaning, lubing and installing the speedometer drive line gear and it;s nut housing and also installed a new oil seal. The band support also serves as the bearing retainer, more on that later.

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