Sold WC-12 W-231808

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17thAirborne
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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Sat Dec 30, 2017 8:17 am

Just a note, there is no need to use permatex on the front reverse idler shaft housing as it is inside of the case behind the cover and gasket. I got a little over-zealous :shock:
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Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)


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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Sat Dec 30, 2017 5:19 pm

(g) I installed the 44 counter shaft and its components. On the counter shaft are mounted: 49 bearing, 48 oil retainer washer, 47 rear bearing washer, 46 snap ring (not on the shaft, but in the groove of the opening), 38, low and second gear, 33 third and direct gear, 30 pilot bearing spacer and 28 main shaft pilot bearing. When i mounted the rear bearing retaining cap, I installed it without a gasket as directed and measured the gap. I had 0.011" and the thickness of the gasket I had was 0.014". The instructions are to gap it to 0.003 play or tension on the bearing. Mine will end up being 0.003" play excluding gasket crush which will probably reduce the gap to near 0.000" I will accept that 8) Dont forget to orient the gasket so that the oil drain hole is open with the notch in the gasket.

The speedometer drive gear 53, and spacer 51 can be installed now or later, They will slip in with the retainer cover on or off.
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Last edited by 17thAirborne on Sat Dec 30, 2017 5:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)

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17thAirborne
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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Sat Dec 30, 2017 5:21 pm

(g) continued just showing the main shaft pilot bearing 28 installed.
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Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)

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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Sat Dec 30, 2017 5:37 pm

(e) I'm not sure which part is called the speedometer drive pinion bearing, there is no part listed with that name, but all of the speedometer parts are installed within the rear bearing retainer aka hand brake support 52. Perhaps the manual meant the TRANSMISSION drive pinion bearing, which is part 24

(d) Installation of the main drive pinion 32. It's oil retainer washer 27 (not seen in images, but behind the bearing 24) and the smaller snap ring 25 which keeps the bearing on the shaft. There is another larger snap ring inside of the opening in a grove. When installing the cover, do not forget to line up the oil drain hole in the gasket and the brain hump on the retainer.
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Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)

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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Sat Dec 30, 2017 5:41 pm

Since I have not cleaned the cover yet (lazy me :o ) I decided to work on the hand brake, which is all part of step (b). More on that later. I have a nice new brake band from MVP. I'm just putting everything together for now, and will follow adjustment procedures later. I installed new springs, nuts and the adjustment screw. The J-bolt is in nice shape.
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Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)

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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Wed Jan 03, 2018 1:10 pm

I'm almost done with the transmission. I have to clean the yoke and bolts, mount that to the brake disk and then I can finish final assembly. All of the parts have been pre-assembled to check fit and hardware. The brake band adjusting screw I had was buggered up, so I need a replacement. The fit of the spring between the band and the mount is very tight. I don't see how one gets much adjustment with that spring all mashed in there. :?
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Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)

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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Wed Jan 03, 2018 1:13 pm

I retrieved my engine and all the components from the machine shop. I'll get organized and begin working on the engine soon. Everything is sitting in my workshop waiting to return to its rightful location in the block. Just a few shots for now.
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Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)

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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Thu Jan 04, 2018 10:02 am

It's time to tackle the engine. I have done quite a bit of reading and spent time talking with a few seasoned engine rebuilders locally and have a plan of attack. Since this is a T-214 engine, i am using the TM9-18108A as a basis for my sequence and data. I have reproduced the engine assembly pages here for all to follow and assist with recommendations and comments. I will follow the procedures in order and have added a few steps which may seem common sense to most, but essential for my first effort. Those steps are highlighted in blue. If anyone has recommendations, please post them in the thread as I hope this part of the build will help others going through the same process. Here are the steps I'll use, some of them are already completed at the machine shop.

1. Clean an area of the work space removing all debris, dirt and grease. Provide a suitable cover to use when work is not being done to keep any crap out of the engine.
2. Lay out all of the components in a clean area so that they can be readily found, identified wiped down and assembled.
3. Thoroughly re-clean the block with appropriate fluid, brush the oil galleys, use high pressure air to aid in cleaning. Make every effort to remove EVERY bit of metal shavings, grit and honing compound.
4. Plan each step, dry fit carefully, then use appropriate lube on all bearing surfaces to prevent metal on metal friction after fitting.
5. Use appropriate measuring devices to check the fit and tolerances: micrometer, dial calipers, torque wrench etc.
6. use clean tools, clean after each use.
7. Use permatex on areas such as manifold studs, engine studs, timing chain front cover
8. Make sure all of the internal oil lines and feeders are connected and ightened
9. Verify the proper location of 1-6 connecting rods and the orientation of the oil holes etc
10. install pistons with slotted side opposite the connecting rod oil metering hole
11. Don't forget to prime the oil pump before the first start
12. Retorque the head after first heat cycle
13. Use new lock washers on the main bearing cap screws
14 Chase all threads,
15. When adding coolant, unscrew the temp bulb in the block to allow air out of the head and coolant in.(use a vacuum to capture all debris)


What Else? :?

ON TO THE MANUAL

a. Mount cylinder block in Engine Stand
b. Install tappets and camshaft
c. Install valves and springs
d, Assemble flywheel and sprocket to crankshaft
e. Install clutch housing, crankshaft and bearings
f. Assemble pistons and connecting rods
g. Install pistons and connecting rod assemblies
h. Install camshaft sprocket and timing chain
i. Install chain cover case, engine support and fan pulley
j. Install cylinder head
k. Install Manifold assembly
l. Install oil relief and thermostat
m. Install oil strainer
n. Install oil pan

Next is installation of the Accessories, which I'll detail later. Here are the images from the manual.
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Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)

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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Thu Jan 04, 2018 12:59 pm

Nearing completion of the hand brake assembly. I cleaned, primed and painted the flange and bolts and mated them to the hand brake drum. Installed a fresh washer and cotter pin. Work stoppage due to a worn and bent hand brake band adjustment nut spring. :o

soooo close
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Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)

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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Thu Jan 04, 2018 6:50 pm

Regarding assembly lube, it is essential to pre-lube all rotating surfaces where metal to metal surface contacts occurs. This should be applied before the engine is started, or even rotated by hand. A small bit of metal or grinding compound in a dry bearing will score it quickly.

There are quite a few discussions on what to lube and what kind of lube to use. From what i understand the cylinders, pistons and rings should be lubed with motor oil, and nothing else. The bearings, cam lobes, valve stems, tappets should receive a coating of "assembly lube" , and there are several brands available along with numerous comments on what is best. i plan on using Permatex Ultraslick Assembly Lube for the bearing surfaces, the valve stems, cam lobes, oil pump gears, and the tappets. I will use 30wt for the cylinder walls, pistons and rings and for priming the pump.

As a precautionary measure I should change the oil and filter after a short run to remove any grit that was missed in the cleaning. If for some reason things get clogged quickly, the bypass valve will deliver unfiltered oil back to the engine. Perhaps this is a bit too cautionary, but a $15 filter and some oil are cheap compared to another set of bearings.
I would be happy to hear some opinions on assembly lube of old engines.
Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)

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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Fri Jan 05, 2018 12:14 pm

Ran around town all day looking for stuff for the rebuild. Small town, not many options, but I am ready to start. On my pre assembly list here is what is addressed so far:

1. Clean an area of the work space removing all debris, dirt and grease. Provide a suitable cover to use when work is not being done to keep any crap out of the engine. DONE
2. Lay out all of the components in a clean area so that they can be readily found, identified wiped down and assembled. DONE
3. Thoroughly re-clean the block with appropriate fluid, brush the oil galleys, use high pressure air to aid in cleaning. Make every effort to remove EVERY bit of metal shavings, grit and honing compound. DONE. .
I spoke with my machinist. He accomplished all of this and installed all of the galley plugs and freeze plugs. Shrink wrapped to keep everything else out. I will use electro-clean and air to give everything a final wipe down before starting, being careful not to introduce any foreign material into the block
Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)

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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Sat Jan 06, 2018 10:58 am

Finished the final cleaning. I used 120 psi air, brake cleaner and old diapers that leave no lint. Paper shop towels tend to tear on the casting edges and the red shop towels leave a lot of red lint all over.
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Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)

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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Sat Jan 06, 2018 11:29 am

From the TM

a. Mount cylinder block in Engine Stand DONE
b. Install tappets and camshaft: DONE by my machinist
c. Install valves and springs.
I sorted through the valves and inventoried everything, 6, exhaust valves, 6 intake valves, 12 spring keepers and 24 keys. I could not find any permatex assembly lube in town, so i got some Federal Mogul thick red syrup from by machinist. Nice stuff, this, and it will protect well. I labeled all of the valve locations on the block just to help me with getting the right valve in the right guide.
I used a nice WW2 jeep spring compressor to get the springs over the tappet screws and then compressed to install the keys. I used a magnet on a stick to get the keys on the valve stem and held theme there with some red grease.Don't forget to put something in the three openings to the block so you don't drop the keys down there.
I installed the cam shaft timing gear so that I could rotate the cam to get the open valves closed. The three bolt holes are offset so the gear will only go on one way. make sure you install the gear with the timing mark (small dot) showing
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Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)

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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Sat Jan 06, 2018 11:33 am

Continuing on I set the gap between the tappet screw and the valve stem. THere are different specs listed in different places, I used 0'008" for the Intake and 0.010" for the Exhaust.
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Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)

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Re: Restoring WC12 W-231808

Post by 17thAirborne » Sat Jan 06, 2018 12:00 pm

d, Assemble flywheel and sprocket to crankshaft.
The procedure calls for the flywheel, bell housing and sprocket to be installed on the crank shaft. I elected to keep those off for now as I cannot use my motor mount with the bell housing installed.

e. Install clutch housing, crankshaft and bearings

I dry fitted the bearing caps and screws with new lock washers just to make sure I knew where everything went. The No.1 and 4 bearing caps are different, so they are not marked and easy to find out where they go. The No. 2 and 3 are identical so they should be marked before disassembly. Mine already had two or three notches filed in the caps.

I unpacked my bearings one at a time, cleaned them with elector clean and marked them with a sharpie. I wanted then completely dry for the test fit of the crankshaft. The bearings have a small keyway that fits into the notch in the lower and upper bearing housing.

I took a piece of red plasti-gauge and laid it in the base of each of the bearings, cross wise and then carefully placed the crankshaft into the bearings. I installed the 4 caps and torqued them down in stages, first hand tight, then to the lock washers, then to 75ft-lbs using a click type torque wrench. I removed the caps and the crank and measured the plasti-gauge. I wish I had taken a better picture, but you can just make out where the plastic has crushed to a very thin strip and you can compare it to the printed gauge on the package. In this case I have just under 0.002" PERFECT!! 8)


Just a note, I did not turn the crank while it was in the dry bearings. Next I will perform final assembly of the bearings and crankshaft with assembly lube installed. More on that tomorrow.
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Oz

Feb 43 GPW 98532 USA 20206257
Oct 70 Land Rover Series 2a 25334079G NZ16GF36
http://gpw.castraponere.com/ (My Restoration Page)


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