G503 Military Vehicle Message Forums

There seems to be quite a number of posts regarding "How Do I Install Split Rivets?" Split rivets are the little split legged solid rivets that are used primarily to hold in place the grille welting.

The proper size split rivet for this application is a 9/16" tall rivet with a 9/64" solid shank. Unfortunately, this is not a commonly stocked size and the substitute that has been furnished with the numerous reproduction welting kits is a 1/2" OAL rivet with a longer 3/16" solid shank. This longer shank plays havoc for those installing the rivets improperly. Rivets that are peened or folded over forming a 90 degree angle to the back of the grille, will inevitably be loose fitting.

Although the shorter rivets are an easier installation, the longer rivets will work quite well if you install them as they were designed with a "rolled leg".
This rolled leg should extend upwards past the solid "crotch" of the rivet and will take up any clearance. This roll-forming also pre-loads the rivet so it will remain tight.

The following photos illustrate a hand built roll forming anvil that was welded onto the jaws of a inexpensive pair of "vise grip" pliers.








There are 19 rivets required to fasten the welting kits. My kit came with exactly 19 rivets....not much margin for error.

If you install a "jam nut" on the adjustable lever of the vise grips you can consistantly control the rivet forming length.

great explanation garys, if you need the proper black split rivets I have them in stock

Cheers,
Ron

Thanks Ron.

This restoration process has been quite a learning curve for me. I am aware that the black rivets are "correct". Were these simply black patina brass rivets or were they steel and painted, or black chromed or black oxided?

Thanks,
Gary

Gary that's a nice tool you made. I did not realize that rolling the arms back was necessary. Did you use a right angle grinder to hollow out the grooves. What's the diameter and depth of everything pertaining to the rod you used. I've got to put those in and I have a spare set of vice grips exactly like the ones you used.

Lou,

The diameter of the mandrel is 9/16"

I machined the radii in with a .25 diameter end mill however if you don't have a milling machine you can drill two 1/4" holes spaced approximately .250 apart and split the block. The height of the center rib to the radii is .070"

Fairly simple to make. Make sure you grind the plating off the jaws of the visegrips before you weld.

I used a low carbon steel and after welding I heated the anvil cherry red and rolled it in Kasenite, reheated and water quenched to case harden the surface.

Gary,

Brilliant!

This sort of innovation is in the finest tradition of the Gee.

We really ought to have a prize or something for things like this, as us lesser mortals really benefit for the sharing of such expertise.

We could carry out a vote every 6 months, for example, with some sort of award/recognition if we set up a small fund from donations?

Does anybody else agree on this?

i enjoyed your post gary.
i found that the new rivets
had to be modified some
to fit into metal that was
les than 1/8"
see diaghram below.
i put the rivet in a vice
and cut the crotch a little deeper.
then when crimped down
would hold the welting tightly.
iowa

Iowa,

Your post actually triggered me to provide further detail on how these rivets were originally designed to be installed.

Yes, if you do not roll the legs over beyond the web of the rivet. Any rivet that has a solid section greater than about 1/8", (or the clinch distance of your application), will have too much slop in it once it is assembled with the technique of just folding the legs over.

I have a few more "How To" techniques that I will submit......wait, if you are going to start a monthly contest, perhaps I should wait, ...don't want to compete against myself....lol

Glad everyone enjoyed/benefitted from this once.

Gary

I woke up this morning with another idea on how to make some pliers. Since I don't have some of the heavy equipment you have Gary to make that mandrel. What if you take a 1/4" round pipe and split that down the middle and then fold it back on itself to create the double curved cradle. Each side having the 1/4" round radius. Then shape the vice grip with a upside down "V" and weld the split open pipe to the grips. Of course the pipe would have to be steel. All you need is a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel, a grinder and a welder. Might work.

worth a try....you just have to make sure that the center has a nice V-lead in

I made myself a similar style tool but I just filed the profile I needed with an 1/4" round file. Rather than use some vise grips I used 2 lengths of box section about 2ft long with a bolt through to make like a pair of pliars, the extra length really makes it effortless to use

I've made various tools as I've restored my jeep to make jobs easier. The one I'm most proud of is a pair of plates that fit my vice turning it into a mini brake press that folds small pieces of sheet steel beautifully. If anyone is interested I'll take some pics and post them.

Pic's are always a welcome sight.

As asked for... Here are some pics of the plates I made from some 1" angle iron to turn my vice into a mini brake press, I can easily bend steel upto 16 guage as long as 10".



Plates on my vice showing the profiles



Another shot showing the plates on my vice

Well that's interesting. So you can get a 90 degree bend with just that small "V" groove ? Pretty neat. How'd you get that "V" groove so straight and perfect ? Is that 1/2" plate.

gary
i enjoyed this thread.
i like your method.
and i'm not in competition
with anyone.
i just want to see different ideas
and see as many of these
great old jeeps
restored as possible.
dave