Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember

1941 - 1945, MB, GPW Technical questions and discussions, regarding anything related to the WWII jeep.
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Post by fab » Tue Apr 05, 2005 3:53 pm

hi, how di, oOOOPPs sorry
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Bob Shaw
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Post by Bob Shaw » Tue Apr 05, 2005 3:56 pm

I used an angled die grinder,and an air chisel with a punch bit.


My die grinders can be seen on the cowl.The air chisel with punch bit is on the "bubba" crossmember,and bumper.


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Post by thovis » Wed Apr 06, 2005 7:59 am

Like others I grounded the Rivet down on both sides, I drilled the rivets out before. As you see below, my horns ended up being beyond repair, so I replaced them.
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After horn replacement and gusset replacement
Image
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Post by Bob Shaw » Wed Apr 06, 2005 9:01 am

I must be silly :oops: I only ground off one side.The side I would be punching it through from. :oops: :wink:





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Post by petesilfven » Wed Apr 06, 2005 11:44 am

Here's a quicker way to remove rivets. Using a cut-off wheel in an air grinder, cut the rivet head in two almost down to the frame(like cutting a screw slot). Cut each half head off with a chisel in your air hammer. Knock the rest of the rivet out with a punch. Lots quicker than grinding the whole head off.
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Rivet Source

Post by Guest » Thu Apr 07, 2005 7:14 am

Does anyone know of manufacturer or distributor sources for these rivets other than the vendors. Other sizes for some of the brackets would be helpful. McMaster-Carr comes to mind.

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Post by Bob Shaw » Thu Apr 07, 2005 9:09 am

I don't know the manufacturer,or distributor.Brent Mullins does have the various sizes.
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Post by Jeff H » Thu Apr 07, 2005 9:43 am

To those that have used them .... How much thread engagement do you get into the fake rivet head that is the nut? It would seem not much from the pictures.

Does anyone that used them now have a driving Jeep on the street? How are they holding up?

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Post by jeep guy » Thu Apr 07, 2005 12:14 pm

I was asking myself the same question.
The torque you can apply is limeted because the bolt breakes off.
Do you use them with a product like locktite or something?

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Post by thovis » Thu Apr 07, 2005 1:30 pm

From the original picture on page 1 you see the length of the bolts will vary based on upper or lower gusset. Note Lower gusset requires the longer bolt because of the shackle hanger. It appeared to me, when appying, that I got a complete and tight fitting because the bottom of the bolt came to the end so I had a nice rivet look on the break off side.

At this point, I believe it will hold well. I placed a couple tack welds on the bottom gussets to horn for additional strength.

In the same respect, I don't plan on pulling any tanks out of ditches with ties to my front bumper or rear crossmember :D

Image
Last edited by thovis on Thu Apr 07, 2005 1:33 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by JTBailey » Thu Apr 07, 2005 1:31 pm

I wonder if it would be a good idea to spot weld the two pieces where the nut breaks off. You could then do some minimal grinding and disguise the fact that they are bolts and not rivets.

I'm not an experienced welder, so any thoughts from someone that is?
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Post by svt40 » Thu Apr 07, 2005 2:19 pm

Think chucking them up in a drill and using a file to get the triangular profile for a GPW rivet would be too time consuming?
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Post by Bob Shaw » Thu Apr 07, 2005 2:56 pm

These are very simple,and easy to work with.


Yes,Loc-Tite,for that extra piece of mind if you want.If you want to weld them,,go ahead.


The metal is soft enough that clean up and shaping is easy,and swift.
But not so soft that you are relying on a marshmellow to hold your jeep together.



Installation can only be made easier,if you get someone to do it for you. :wink: :lol:


This weekend I will take some close up pics of the "cleaned up" side of the rivet.Maybe it will help to get ya'll off the fence,and into the rodeo. :wink: :wink: :lol: :lol:

Seriously,,I'm very happy with the results,and still highly recommend them..I did a quick search today for alternate suppliers,and I didn't find any.I met Brent at his open house and he is a very good guy to deal with,,,actually have been dealing with him ,through a buddy for years..I just got to meet him this year.

I know alot of you are thinking they seem pricey,but the finished product is worth it....Unless you have the correct rivets,bucking bar,and driver,plus the skill to drive a good rivet that'll pass QC,,This IS the ticket!
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Post by Bob Shaw » Sun Apr 10, 2005 6:39 pm

As promised.Here is a pic of the rivet-bolts,"break-off" side after cleaning up(shaping),and paint.

Image
Flatfender Restorations 214-236-2535
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Post by JMB » Sun Apr 10, 2005 8:48 pm

Lookin good in O.D. Bob! Is that sucker hanging from that Power Wagon? :lol:

P.S. Glad I didn't haul the trailer home this weekend, 30" of snow today and still coming down. Giving the old CJ a work-out :!:

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