Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
- Bob Shaw
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Yeah,Jim
It's hanging from the Power-Wagon.
SNOW?!?!?!?!! I was wishing I wore shorts yesterday.I got a dandy sunburn.I'm hoping the good weekend weather holds out,I like being able to get some serious MB time in.
Thanks
Bob
It's hanging from the Power-Wagon.
SNOW?!?!?!?!! I was wishing I wore shorts yesterday.I got a dandy sunburn.I'm hoping the good weekend weather holds out,I like being able to get some serious MB time in.
Thanks
Bob
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- Mighty Eighth
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- Bob Shaw
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I hope you like them as much as I do.
Flatfender Restorations 214-236-2535
Spc4 Robert Shaw 13F US Army/TANG 87-92
http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/showpho ... 61&cat=861" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
MB351461 07-15-1944 USA 20615850
Spc4 Robert Shaw 13F US Army/TANG 87-92
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MB351461 07-15-1944 USA 20615850
- douglasmthom
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Re: Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
Does anyone know the manufacturer of these Rivet Bolts? I'd like to get more information than Brent Mullins seems to have.
Doug Thom
Chassis GPW 84536 - DOD: December 9, 1942 Dallas, TX
Engine GPW 89702 - early January 1943
Hood Number (est.) 20192259
MVPA 34210, MVCC 12569
Chassis GPW 84536 - DOD: December 9, 1942 Dallas, TX
Engine GPW 89702 - early January 1943
Hood Number (est.) 20192259
MVPA 34210, MVCC 12569
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Re: Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
Here are some questions I would ask:
At what torque reading do these rivet bolts snap off at during installation?
What effective grade strength are these?
Anyone ever have one fail to pull the parts together before they snapped during installation?
Any failures of these on the stressed parts like the spring hanger?
The threads on these look like they are 5/16" fine, not sure if I would trust them for securing the suspension, or other critical parts. Regular 3/8" rivets, Huck rivets or grade eight 3/8" SAE fine bolts would be much stronger, and have better clamping ability, in my opinion. Button head 3/8 SAE bolts are inexpensive, and will hold the proper torque. The hex can be filled in with epoxy, body filler or welded over to simulate the round rivet head.
Anyone know what was used for repairs at the overhaul facilities during the war, or post war? Replacement hot rivets, or bolts?
What was the approved motor pool repair for say a bumper bracket or spring hanger?
At what torque reading do these rivet bolts snap off at during installation?
What effective grade strength are these?
Anyone ever have one fail to pull the parts together before they snapped during installation?
Any failures of these on the stressed parts like the spring hanger?
The threads on these look like they are 5/16" fine, not sure if I would trust them for securing the suspension, or other critical parts. Regular 3/8" rivets, Huck rivets or grade eight 3/8" SAE fine bolts would be much stronger, and have better clamping ability, in my opinion. Button head 3/8 SAE bolts are inexpensive, and will hold the proper torque. The hex can be filled in with epoxy, body filler or welded over to simulate the round rivet head.
Anyone know what was used for repairs at the overhaul facilities during the war, or post war? Replacement hot rivets, or bolts?
What was the approved motor pool repair for say a bumper bracket or spring hanger?
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Re: Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
As far as I know Brent seems to be the only one that has them, so must have some exclusive relationship with the manufacturer.
- douglasmthom
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Re: Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
For applications like the spring hanger, I'm inclined to agree with Marty. It is the shearing off of the Brent Mullin rivet-bolts that make me nervous about their ultimate strength, as well as the fact that this shearing apparently occurs before the clamping force of the threads really gets to work. I'm sure these are fine in some jeep applications and I like their look, but for high stress and load cycling spots like the spring hanger I think I'm going to try the SAE button head cap screws where I know with some certainty what the fastener materials are capable of doing AND I can take advantage of all the clamping force of the fasteners.
I'd be happy to be convinced otherwise, but since we can't seem to get our hands on the manufacturer of the rivet-bolts to understand their characteristics, my engineering conservatism is taking hold....
I'd be happy to be convinced otherwise, but since we can't seem to get our hands on the manufacturer of the rivet-bolts to understand their characteristics, my engineering conservatism is taking hold....
Doug Thom
Chassis GPW 84536 - DOD: December 9, 1942 Dallas, TX
Engine GPW 89702 - early January 1943
Hood Number (est.) 20192259
MVPA 34210, MVCC 12569
Chassis GPW 84536 - DOD: December 9, 1942 Dallas, TX
Engine GPW 89702 - early January 1943
Hood Number (est.) 20192259
MVPA 34210, MVCC 12569
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Re: Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
I have been involved in maintenance, repair, fabrication for about 40 years.
Last 30+ years in aviation as my primary vocation.
I know the importance of proper strength fasteners.
Some of the "shear rivet/bolts" are much better than others. I don't really like them much.
An option some have used are these type button head bolts in the needed size, http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/NUCOR- ... Pid=search" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.
One can lock-tite the threads and weld the allen recess for a rivet look.
I have the tools and prefer to use solid rivets on my projects.
I do realize not everyone has the tools to use rivets, or welding equip.
Cheers, Ed
Last 30+ years in aviation as my primary vocation.
I know the importance of proper strength fasteners.
Some of the "shear rivet/bolts" are much better than others. I don't really like them much.
An option some have used are these type button head bolts in the needed size, http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/NUCOR- ... Pid=search" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.
One can lock-tite the threads and weld the allen recess for a rivet look.
I have the tools and prefer to use solid rivets on my projects.
I do realize not everyone has the tools to use rivets, or welding equip.
Cheers, Ed
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- douglasmthom
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Re: Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
Here is the family of fasteners I ended up using for the high working stress rivet applications - available from McMaster-Carr in many sizes. I used them in conjunction with a locking nut and grade 8 SAE washers. They look very much like a riven head once the hex is filled in and painted and these are strong fasteners with a high quality thread, so you car get some serious clamping force from them.
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Doug Thom
Chassis GPW 84536 - DOD: December 9, 1942 Dallas, TX
Engine GPW 89702 - early January 1943
Hood Number (est.) 20192259
MVPA 34210, MVCC 12569
Chassis GPW 84536 - DOD: December 9, 1942 Dallas, TX
Engine GPW 89702 - early January 1943
Hood Number (est.) 20192259
MVPA 34210, MVCC 12569
- thovis
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Re: Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
I can answer a couple of these questions.... (I started this thread back in 2005)
1) Brent Mullin is the designer and manufacturer of these bolts. Nobody sells them other than Brent (at least that is what he told me at tower park his last year he came)
2) Since the front gussets (should) have welds to the frame (top and bottom), the stress on these psuedo rivets should be minimal.
3) I am nine years with these installed, and look the same from the day they were installed
1) Brent Mullin is the designer and manufacturer of these bolts. Nobody sells them other than Brent (at least that is what he told me at tower park his last year he came)
2) Since the front gussets (should) have welds to the frame (top and bottom), the stress on these psuedo rivets should be minimal.
3) I am nine years with these installed, and look the same from the day they were installed
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- douglasmthom
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Re: Rivet Bolts for Gussets and Rear Crossmember
For those who may be interested in the button cap bolt solution here is what can be done to get the "rivet look" by filling in the hex hole in the head. The OD and profile of the bolt head are VERY close the 3/8" rivet. I installed these bolts sandwiching the frame, gusset, and spring hangers and really cinched them down with washers and locknuts. I'm glad I could really tighten these down as there was still some twisting in the horns after welding and once the bolts were tightened everything trued up. Then I welded the lower gussets top and bottom per the factory spec. It turned out very clean.
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Doug Thom
Chassis GPW 84536 - DOD: December 9, 1942 Dallas, TX
Engine GPW 89702 - early January 1943
Hood Number (est.) 20192259
MVPA 34210, MVCC 12569
Chassis GPW 84536 - DOD: December 9, 1942 Dallas, TX
Engine GPW 89702 - early January 1943
Hood Number (est.) 20192259
MVPA 34210, MVCC 12569
- Dan S
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