Suspension assembly, what goes first??

[OldJeepBob]

RE: GPW frame 109353. Born a ford, now an MB!. I have the axles finished, all springs, shackles, shock, etc. ready to "upload" (at long last!). Does anyone have a suggested order of assembly? Largely doing this solo.
Thanks, brothers (and the occasional sister)!
OldJeepBob

[dpcd67]

In the reverse order of how you took it apart.

[Wolfman]

And put the body on last. Engine and transmission installation is SO much easier with out the body in the way.
Run solo myself, most of the time.
And when you do get to the tub, is it the original or a new one ??
If it is a replacement, do not drill the tub mounting bolt holes until the fenders are in place. If you drill and mount the tub first, then mount the fenders, there is a good chance the fenders won't line up.
Fenders, tub, then drill the tub mounting holes.

[OldJeepBob]

Got the engine, etc wired, just need info about axles. the order I took them apart was dictated by what I could reach with my
sawzall or grinder. Which is to say, I have no idea!

[Wolfman]

Two approaches to the springs and axles. You are working alone, for the most part.
You could put the springs and shackles on first, but then you would have to wrestle the axle ass. up through the hole between the spring and frame. If going this way, easier to install the axles with the brake plates off. Not as much to stick through the opening.
OR.
You could put the springs on the axle, loosely so the move around, and then lift the springs and axle as an assembly with a jack or lift, into place. Not that easy either because the differential housing is not in the center.
Pretty much your choice.
You can lift the rear axle with an engine hoist, with the tub off. Since the engine is already in place, makes the front axle a little more difficult.

[Chuck Lutz]

I'm with the Wolfman here...You can take things apart one way but the reassembly may be different. Assuming you now have the frame on jackstands, you can attach the springs to the axle and then put on the tires...now you can roll that into position and attach the on-board ends of the springs to the frame first and then attach the shackles after that. A good floor jack and hopefully another pair of hands makes it a lot easier if you don't happen to have a lift in your shop.

Then, with drive line in place right down to brake lines and propshafts and exhaust, you can install the motor. The steering wheel tube can be protected with a cardboard tube. If you have enough help, you can have the t-case levers installed but if you choose to install them AFTER the tub is installed you MUST insert the pin they are mounted on NOW as you can't get it in with the tub on without cutting a hole in the floor to do that afterwards.

Get the tub on and the bolts/pads LOOSE before installing the fenders as some tinkering will be needed if any of the tub/fenders are repop. Adjust the tub so the rear panel is flush with the rear crossmember and then move forward to tighten everything up. Then the grill assembly.

PS... before the tub goes on, now is the time to test-run the engine to get it running smooth and check for leaks.

[OldJeepBob]

Guys:
This is fabulous, and exactly what I needed; 50 or so years, countless skinned knuckles, etc., distilled in a few very helpful posts. I could read manuals, long threads, etc and still not get advice this good. Proud to be a Gee member!!
Thanks beaucoup!
OldTruckBob
Bob Price

[OldJeepBob]

Guys:
This is fabulous, and exactly what I needed; 50 or so years, countless skinned knuckles, etc., distilled in a few very helpful posts. I could read manuals, long threads, etc and still not get advice this good. Proud to be a Gee member!!
Thanks beaucoup!
OldTruckBob
Bob Price

[OldPappy]

About to do the same things myself, so this thread is very helpful. Mine is going through the coming apart phase, removed fenders, grill, and hood last week, and next will lift off the tub, and pull the engine, trans, and T-case.

Have new axles, new hangers (mine are worn out), new shackles, new pivot bolts, new brake lines and hoses, and new springs. I wasn't sure about the best way to go about it alone, thinking it may be a bear getting the eyes of the springs to line up with the shackles. Do have good jacks, shop crane, and several "come along" hoists.

Very good advice about the T-case shifters, without reading that I probably would have made the mistake described.

I figured to get the chassis rolling, suspension and steering rebuilt, before reinstalling the engine, trans, and t-case. Already have an engine ready, will go through the gear boxes soon as I pull them.

[dpcd67]

You absolutely must have an engine hoist, so I assemble the axles, lift the frame one end at a time, put the springs on the frame, (I did it upside down once and then flipped it over; WW2 jeep frames weigh nothing) and then use the hoist to lower it onto the axles; it does help to have an assistant but I only use one (my reluctant wife) when setting the power pack into place. Putting the body on, last of course, is best done with 3 other helpers. But a hoist will work by yourself. There is more than one way to do it and it is intuitive if you think it through; don't install anything that will interfere with the next thing. Do a Pert chart.