Cylinder Head

1941 - 1945, MB, GPW Technical questions and discussions, regarding anything related to the WWII jeep.
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Cylinder Head

Post by DogDoc » Wed Feb 21, 2018 10:17 am

I have the cylinder head below. I recently had my go-devil block dipped and two cracks were found in the water jacket. Since I have a GPW, I would like to go ahead and get a GPW block and cylinder head. I was going to use this engine but I guess I'll have to go ahead and take the plunge. I had hoped to wait until I find something close to 110748. Anyone interested? It is an early cylinder head.

Jay
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43 GPW 110748
52 M38
44 Bantam T3
45 GPW 277391


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twinflyer17
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Re: Cylinder Head

Post by twinflyer17 » Wed Feb 21, 2018 11:21 am

Also, depending on where the cracks are and how large they are, you can probably fix them using lock-n-stitch. I'm currently in the process of fixing a crack above the distributor of a GPW block that I have using this method and so far the process is relatively straight forward. Just a thought if you're not able to quickly find a GPW block.
Sean

GPW 108175 viewtopic.php?t=267732
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Re: Cylinder Head

Post by twinflyer17 » Wed Feb 21, 2018 11:33 am

Good points, Luc!
Sean

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Re: Cylinder Head

Post by Michael O. » Wed Feb 21, 2018 6:47 pm

PM sent on your cylinder head. Maybe you would be interested in a trade? Yours for an extra GPW head I have?
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Re: Cylinder Head

Post by DogDoc » Wed Feb 21, 2018 8:15 pm

These are the two cracks. I'm not so much concerned about the one at the top as the one below the distributor.

Jay
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43 GPW 110748
52 M38
44 Bantam T3
45 GPW 277391

DogDoc
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Re: Cylinder Head

Post by DogDoc » Thu Feb 22, 2018 11:07 am

Luc,

Those are almost identical to what I have. I have found a guy in town that used to repair a lot of old cast iron blocks. He's retired but his son thinks he will do it. Thanks for the advice!

Jay
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52 M38
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Re: Cylinder Head

Post by wynnski » Thu Feb 22, 2018 11:55 am

Hello
Reference pinning cracks in blocks.
I have used the 3 day setting Araldite (that is what it is called in the UK) lots of times where there is no stress in the metal work, and this includes frost cracks. I grind a groove along the crack and heat the block up and apply the araldite along the crack. It really helps if you can get the surface horizontal as the araldite will run into the crack if the block is warm. I did a Fordson dexta (Perkins engine) 30 years ago as they are prone to cracking right under the exhaust manifold and the tractor gets worked hard and the araldite has held. I also did a Case 4690 that had split low down on the left side. I dressed the spalled out metal back, grooved it out and put araldite in. That tractor went onto a big square baler and we had no trouble with it.
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Re: Cylinder Head

Post by wynnski » Fri Feb 23, 2018 11:05 am

bantamj wrote:
Fri Feb 23, 2018 7:40 am
wynnski wrote:
Thu Feb 22, 2018 11:55 am
Hello
Reference pinning cracks in blocks.
I have used the 3 day setting Araldite (that is what it is called in the UK) lots of times where there is no stress in the metal work, and this includes frost cracks. I grind a groove along the crack and heat the block up and apply the araldite along the crack. It really helps if you can get the surface horizontal as the araldite will run into the crack if the block is warm. I did a Fordson dexta (Perkins engine) 30 years ago as they are prone to cracking right under the exhaust manifold and the tractor gets worked hard and the araldite has held. I also did a Case 4690 that had split low down on the left side. I dressed the spalled out metal back, grooved it out and put araldite in. That tractor went onto a big square baler and we had no trouble with it.
Do you have more info on that technique please?
I heard (not yet tried myself) that freeze cracks can be repaired with a zink coat.
The area is sand blasted and then the zink is applied with a pistol that melt a zink wire and blow it on the surface.
We in Belgium are calling it metalisation.
Common technique to prevent rust and paint attach very well onto it.

Luc

Hello Luc
The method you describe is almost the same as using the Araldite glue. You are using the molten zinc or lead to seal the crack. It is the same as what is called "lead loading" where you use the lead to fill the body work of a car instead of the plastic fillers used today.
Araldite is an epoxy resin twin pack glue. http://go-araldite.com/media/pdf/Araldi ... 2x15En.pdf
It is used in exactly the same way as the zinc is used. You grind the crack out a little and put the glue into the crack. I used a diesel powered space heater to warm the block or the area that is cracked. I warm it up to about 30 or 40 degrees C. Mix the glue up and apply it with a spatula or knife. If the block is warm enough the glue seeps down into the crack. As long as the engine does not freeze you will not have any more problems. I use the old style Araldite glue that takes 3 days to go off. This is stronger than the 15 minute type. If you cannot get the engine so that the cracked area is horizontal you can put parcel tape over the glue, this will hold it into place while it goes off. If the glue does not stay on the engine and runs off you can always rub it down and put more on top. I have rubbed the glue down with emery cloth and put a skim of body filler over the top of the glue before now.
I am sorry i do not have any picture to show you but the process is very easy. The best thing about this method is that if you get it wrong you can clean the glue off and start again.

I hope this helps

Adrian
GPW #106837

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Re: Cylinder Head

Post by DogDoc » Sat Feb 24, 2018 10:19 am

wynnski wrote:
Thu Feb 22, 2018 11:55 am
Hello
Reference pinning cracks in blocks.
I have used the 3 day setting Araldite (that is what it is called in the UK) lots of times where there is no stress in the metal work, and this includes frost cracks. I grind a groove along the crack and heat the block up and apply the araldite along the crack. It really helps if you can get the surface horizontal as the araldite will run into the crack if the block is warm. I did a Fordson dexta (Perkins engine) 30 years ago as they are prone to cracking right under the exhaust manifold and the tractor gets worked hard and the araldite has held. I also did a Case 4690 that had split low down on the left side. I dressed the spalled out metal back, grooved it out and put araldite in. That tractor went onto a big square baler and we had no trouble with it.
Adrian,

Just to be clear; If I grind the rough edge, heat the block, spatula Araldite, I might get a good seal on the block? This almost sounds to good to be true. I'm not having a lot of luck with someone getting excited about repairing it. I really have nothing to lose trying it.

Jay
43 GPW 110748
52 M38
44 Bantam T3
45 GPW 277391

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Re: Cylinder Head

Post by Michael O. » Sat Feb 24, 2018 10:34 am

If you are willing to make the drive, the guys at Abraham’s Machine Services in Davenport, IA are very experienced in repairing this sort of damage to Cast engine blocks.
Michael O’Connell

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Re: Cylinder Head

Post by wynnski » Sat Feb 24, 2018 12:10 pm

DogDoc wrote:
Sat Feb 24, 2018 10:19 am
wynnski wrote:
Thu Feb 22, 2018 11:55 am
Hello
Reference pinning cracks in blocks.
I have used the 3 day setting Araldite (that is what it is called in the UK) lots of times where there is no stress in the metal work, and this includes frost cracks. I grind a groove along the crack and heat the block up and apply the araldite along the crack. It really helps if you can get the surface horizontal as the araldite will run into the crack if the block is warm. I did a Fordson dexta (Perkins engine) 30 years ago as they are prone to cracking right under the exhaust manifold and the tractor gets worked hard and the araldite has held. I also did a Case 4690 that had split low down on the left side. I dressed the spalled out metal back, grooved it out and put araldite in. That tractor went onto a big square baler and we had no trouble with it.
Adrian,

Just to be clear; If I grind the rough edge, heat the block, spatula Araldite, I might get a good seal on the block? This almost sounds to good to be true. I'm not having a lot of luck with someone getting excited about repairing it. I really have nothing to lose trying it.

Jay
Hello Jay
I would use Araldite every time on a cracked block like yours. Every engine I have had a frost crack in, that does not affect the structural rigidity of the block, the glue has held. If you think about it, the crack is not going to get any larger unless the block is frozen again. Araldite is able to withstand a large range of temperatures and it will still hold. And it only needs to withstand 15 Psi max in newer cars and much lower in these old engines. Jaguar used it on cracked gearbox casings when they won at Le Mans back in the 80's if my mind serves me correctly.
If you get the block horizontal, heat the crack up with a good hot flame, either oxy/ace or map gas, just to dry the joint out. Just burning hot, no colour change. I would then let it cool and wash/irigate the crack with brake cleaner, this will clean the crack out allowing the araldite to key to the sides of the crack when it flows through, assuming you get the block hot enough (about 40/50 C or 104 F plus) for the glue to flow. You only need a small groove for the glue, not very deep. I would kiss the crack with a 1mm angle grinder blade no more than a 1/16 inch deep. Over run the ends of the crack by 1/4 to 1/2 an inch.
The crack above the dissy hole is a little more tricky. This crack may get opened up more when the cylinder head bolts are tightened. I would build the engine up fully, bolt the head down and then do the repair on this crack.
I rebuilt a 1936 Buick Straight 8 a few years ago and the block was cracked along the top of the deck. The glue held until the cyl head bolts were tightned and then the cracked opened up. I just cleaned the glue out with a very small router bit and put more in. It is still going today and it gets driven.
The next alternative would be to bronze weld the crack up but you need an oven to heat the block up and to cool it down. When I was young I tried cast iron welding with stick welding and gas but you can make a hell of a mess and run the risk of melting the cast iron which is not very thick. And for these methods you need an oven again.
All of the above is from my own experience and I am not saying it is the only way but it has worked for me and others who I have advised, time and time again.
You have nothing to loose with the glue.

All the best and good luck
Adrian

Adrian
GPW #106837

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Re: Cylinder Head

Post by wynnski » Sat Feb 24, 2018 12:28 pm

Jay
Just a foot note. If for any reason whatsoever the glue does not work you have not mucked the crack up for pinning because the pinning drills bigger holes than the groove for the glue
Adrian
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Re: Cylinder Head

Post by wynnski » Sun Feb 25, 2018 1:24 am

bantamj wrote:
Sat Feb 24, 2018 11:52 pm
wynnski wrote:
Sat Feb 24, 2018 12:28 pm
Jay
Just a foot note. If for any reason whatsoever the glue does not work you have not mucked the crack up for pinning because the pinning drills bigger holes than the groove for the glue
Adrian
That's true, the pinning is not attaching anything, the crack remains.
The pinning is filling in the crack and seal it off, but there is no conection whatsoever.
Stitching is a decieving word.
If the glue is keeping up with the temperatures and pressures I think it is a good repair.
Soon I will try the zink coating, that would be great, as same as the glue it won't put any stress on the casting.

Luc
Make sure the zinc is the softness of butter and really push it in hard, tapping it gently with a small hammer as it cools down then rub it down with emery paper afterwards. If you have the block too hot the zinc will run off like water.
Post some pictures....good luck
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Re: Cylinder Head

Post by wynnski » Sun Feb 25, 2018 4:18 am

bantamj wrote:
Sun Feb 25, 2018 3:55 am
Actually the zink wire is melted and transported by air pressure to the metal.
It is a common procedure to prevent rust on iron parts.
I have my WOF engine and axles as well as the frame zink coated (schooped/ùmetalised) and it is a great base for paint.
The link below shows a fence getting a zink coat.

Regards,
Luc

https://www.bing.com/images/search?view ... ajaxhist=0
Ah...ha.
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Re: Cylinder Head

Post by W. Winget » Sun Feb 25, 2018 6:09 pm

Welding options have changed over the years, there's some really excellent rods out there now, expensive, but they can save rare parts like my 1918 Liberty truck exhaust manifold, and fix block cracks even with oil in them (as they say...I will try some)
I think there's a $50 "Farm Show" sample pack if you mention the Farm Show magazine. And of course I can't find a link for the sale of any of them :cry:
V/R W. Winget

http://www.breckocorp.com/magna720.htm
Especially Developed for Welding Dirty, Heat-Affected Cast Iron
Gives sound welds on cast iron so greasy and dirty that other electrodes will not even make bond.
Has these special features:
Actually welds burned cast iron such as furnace grates, manifolds
Has unique "Quick Freeze Action" Deposits solidify so rapidly that defects and porosity do not have a chance to form
Has coefficient of expansion and elongation similar to cast iron
Excellent for forming bond as a welding base on dirty cast iron
Perfect color match to cast iron
Magna 720 is the finest nickel-free electrode in existence

Tensile Strength up to p.s.i. (kg/mm2)
Typical Hardness Brinell
Electrode Current
Sizes
50,000 (35.2)
Non-Machinable
AC-DC RP
4.0mm-5/32"
3.2mm-1/8"
Video of some use:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icrhy2hjRUM
Looking for 1918 Standard B 'Liberty' truck parts


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