MB2A Conversion-Restoration U.K.
- roblenzz
- G-Second Lieutenant
- Posts: 598
- Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2008 6:35 pm
- Location: Jacksonville, FL
Re: MB2A Conversion-Restoration U.K.
Like what has been said, do what makes you happy. From my personal experience, I bought a 2A that had an MB grille and body handles, spare tire mounted to the tailgate (should've been a clue to me) when I was 22, I bought it as a "1945 Willys WWII jeep " I was completely new to the jeep scene and it was my fault that I didn't do my homework. But I was so disappointed when I figured it out. I completed the look of the "military jeep" but in parades and car shows and among other real WWII jeeps I felt out of place. Having to explain that it wasn't a true war jeep, people just kinda shuffled past, kinda lost its luster. I sold it as a 1946 Willys CJ2A with no mention of a military past and lost some money. Bought for $3000, put about $2500 into it and replaced the engine, brand new Firestone tires, etc... Sold it for $3000. Wish I had kept my money and invested the $55-6000 on an entry level MB or GPW. My suggestion is to save up and wait. A deal will come around. Don't get me wrong, I was happy with my 2A, but it'll never be what you want it to be and it kinda gets to you, at least it did me anyway. Wish you the best, which ever route you choose
'42 GPW
'43 GTB
'51 Dunbar Kapple M100
'42 Converto trailer
'42 Mk II USN bomb cart
'44 Mk III USN bomb trailer
Friend/Modeler PT Boats.org
'43 GTB
'51 Dunbar Kapple M100
'42 Converto trailer
'42 Mk II USN bomb cart
'44 Mk III USN bomb trailer
Friend/Modeler PT Boats.org
-
- G-Staff Sergeant
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2017 2:07 am
- Location: N.Ireland, U.K.
Re: MB2A Conversion-Restoration U.K.
Hello Folks
Thank you all for your comments and interest in the project, I understand all of your opinions about this restoration, I do appreciate the kind words also which helps. The jeep is a mixture of CJ, MB, GPW, And Hotchkiss parts, the Chassis is a VEP 1946 CJ2A Chassis. I have stripped every nut and bolt on this so far, and have started from the ground up. All assemblies and bolts etc.. have been media blasted, with the exception of the body tub and chassis, both axles were blasted and all adjoining assemblies. Springs where stripped down, blasted, and rebuilt. A new front bumper has been installed, four new spring shackles, and a new rear cross member installed, which is produced from zintec steel, the old cj one was far too battered and bruised and at the time opted to go for new. The Transmission is a T-90, with T-18 transfer case attached, these where stripped down, blasted, rebuilt, and all new seals put in place. The transmission cross-member was also blasted, and a new rubber insulator installed, along with circular rubber mount which the transmission bolts to. The front right fender-wing, is original to the jeep, it took some welding work to get it looking normal again. Previously, the bottom of it had been welded to the body tub, which distorted it and caused damage when removing. The front left fender-wing is from a GPW, and has an F mark, this also needed some welding work, and necessitated in the front section that bolts to the grill, being replaced, and a new section welded in.
The Hood-bonnet required some major welding work, I cut-out, the Willys logos, and welded in a new piece of steel, that was some job, and could have went better, but it was one of my first attempts at welding, I soon learnt pretty quickly. There was also a break at the front seam, where the two halves join, I have heard this is a common problem. The grill, is reproduction, the head-light bowls are from a GPW, marker lights from a Hotchkiss. New repro Steering Wheel, as I have said, its a good mix of parts. My new body-tub is from a Hotchkiss Jeep, work to commence early 2018 on that. I am currently working on the engine now. I have stripped it down mostly, blasted the oil pan, cleaned out and reinstalled the oil strainer. Just the other day, I finally removed the distributor, at long last, I had put that job off a few years ago when it would not come out. Came back to the Gee forums for advice, and in the end, I used some 3in1 oil on the shaft, sprayed, and with a rubber mallet and rubber handle from a screwdriver, gently tapped it out, about 20 taps, and a few turns left to right, it came loose. This has now been stripped, lightly blasted, and re-assembled, just waiting for paint to arrive. Got the bumperettes blasted the other day, primed, just need to spray in OD. Engine sump has been re-installed, with a new cork gasket, was very careful not to pinch it, and tightened to the bolts by hand. next job on the engine is to remove the cam cover, blast it, and install a new gasket, the rest of the block will get a wire-wheel, to remove rust-oil etc..,
I originally went with Lusterless O.D., froim Tony Sudds, now sold by UJP in the U.K., it was called Matt1
but it was far too troublesome to remove finger prints etc..., So I opted for Mix1, which is the same paint, but with a small amount of clear coat added, which makes it easier to clean, and less porous like the Matt paint.
More to come.
many thanks
Will
Thank you all for your comments and interest in the project, I understand all of your opinions about this restoration, I do appreciate the kind words also which helps. The jeep is a mixture of CJ, MB, GPW, And Hotchkiss parts, the Chassis is a VEP 1946 CJ2A Chassis. I have stripped every nut and bolt on this so far, and have started from the ground up. All assemblies and bolts etc.. have been media blasted, with the exception of the body tub and chassis, both axles were blasted and all adjoining assemblies. Springs where stripped down, blasted, and rebuilt. A new front bumper has been installed, four new spring shackles, and a new rear cross member installed, which is produced from zintec steel, the old cj one was far too battered and bruised and at the time opted to go for new. The Transmission is a T-90, with T-18 transfer case attached, these where stripped down, blasted, rebuilt, and all new seals put in place. The transmission cross-member was also blasted, and a new rubber insulator installed, along with circular rubber mount which the transmission bolts to. The front right fender-wing, is original to the jeep, it took some welding work to get it looking normal again. Previously, the bottom of it had been welded to the body tub, which distorted it and caused damage when removing. The front left fender-wing is from a GPW, and has an F mark, this also needed some welding work, and necessitated in the front section that bolts to the grill, being replaced, and a new section welded in.
The Hood-bonnet required some major welding work, I cut-out, the Willys logos, and welded in a new piece of steel, that was some job, and could have went better, but it was one of my first attempts at welding, I soon learnt pretty quickly. There was also a break at the front seam, where the two halves join, I have heard this is a common problem. The grill, is reproduction, the head-light bowls are from a GPW, marker lights from a Hotchkiss. New repro Steering Wheel, as I have said, its a good mix of parts. My new body-tub is from a Hotchkiss Jeep, work to commence early 2018 on that. I am currently working on the engine now. I have stripped it down mostly, blasted the oil pan, cleaned out and reinstalled the oil strainer. Just the other day, I finally removed the distributor, at long last, I had put that job off a few years ago when it would not come out. Came back to the Gee forums for advice, and in the end, I used some 3in1 oil on the shaft, sprayed, and with a rubber mallet and rubber handle from a screwdriver, gently tapped it out, about 20 taps, and a few turns left to right, it came loose. This has now been stripped, lightly blasted, and re-assembled, just waiting for paint to arrive. Got the bumperettes blasted the other day, primed, just need to spray in OD. Engine sump has been re-installed, with a new cork gasket, was very careful not to pinch it, and tightened to the bolts by hand. next job on the engine is to remove the cam cover, blast it, and install a new gasket, the rest of the block will get a wire-wheel, to remove rust-oil etc..,
I originally went with Lusterless O.D., froim Tony Sudds, now sold by UJP in the U.K., it was called Matt1
but it was far too troublesome to remove finger prints etc..., So I opted for Mix1, which is the same paint, but with a small amount of clear coat added, which makes it easier to clean, and less porous like the Matt paint.
More to come.
many thanks
Will
-
- G-Staff Sergeant
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2017 2:07 am
- Location: N.Ireland, U.K.
-
- G-Staff Sergeant
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2017 2:07 am
- Location: N.Ireland, U.K.
Re: MB2A Conversion-Restoration U.K.
Jeep Arrives at its new home, this was taken just over two years ago this photograph. More to come.
-
- G-Staff Sergeant
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2017 2:07 am
- Location: N.Ireland, U.K.
Re: MB2A Conversion-Restoration U.K.
A few pics of progress over the last few years.
Before moving to its new home.
Cylinder head media blasted
Progress on small parts, blasted, primed, painted
T-90, blasted and degreased.
Before moving to its new home.
Cylinder head media blasted
Progress on small parts, blasted, primed, painted
T-90, blasted and degreased.
- Attachments
-
- WP_20151013_004.jpg (46.13 KiB) Viewed 441 times
-
- WP_20150510_008.jpg (36.97 KiB) Viewed 441 times
-
- G-Staff Sergeant
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2017 2:07 am
- Location: N.Ireland, U.K.
Re: MB2A Conversion-Restoration U.K.
-
- G-Staff Sergeant
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2017 2:07 am
- Location: N.Ireland, U.K.
-
- G-Staff Sergeant
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2017 2:07 am
- Location: N.Ireland, U.K.
-
- G-Staff Sergeant
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2017 2:07 am
- Location: N.Ireland, U.K.
Re: MB2A Conversion-Restoration U.K.
Engine is removed from Chassis-Frame
-
- Sergeant Major [E-9]
- Posts: 900
- Joined: Sun Feb 19, 2006 3:21 pm
- Location: Marietta GA.
Re: MB2A Conversion-Restoration U.K.
MB2A,
Thank's for all the great pic's. you have really come a long way, keep up the hard work. it is going to be a great looking jeep when your through.
Keep the pic's coming.
Thank's for all the great pic's. you have really come a long way, keep up the hard work. it is going to be a great looking jeep when your through.
Keep the pic's coming.
67 M-151A1
-
- G-Staff Sergeant
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2017 2:07 am
- Location: N.Ireland, U.K.
Re: MB2A Conversion-Restoration U.K.
Many thanks GI. A lot more pics to come, maybe too many lol, hope you all enjoy.
Cheers
Will
Cheers
Will
-
- G-Staff Sergeant
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2017 2:07 am
- Location: N.Ireland, U.K.
Re: MB2A Conversion-Restoration U.K.
Two Pics I had been looking for, of when the jeep arrived before restoration started.
Work on the GPW left fender
Work on the GPW left fender
-
- G-Staff Sergeant
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2017 2:07 am
- Location: N.Ireland, U.K.
-
- G-Staff Sergeant
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2017 2:07 am
- Location: N.Ireland, U.K.
-
- G-Staff Sergeant
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Sun Dec 10, 2017 2:07 am
- Location: N.Ireland, U.K.
Re: MB2A Conversion-Restoration U.K.
Work on the Hood commences, you can see where I had trouble welding the thin metal, burnt a number of holes, this was the first part of the jeep that I had tackled, welding wise, I had never used one before, apart from practicing on various sizes of steel. Thankfully body filler helped me out here, it was a learning curve for the fenders etc.., I also made my own hoodblocks, thanks to Jon, from Jeepdraw, I didn't have any of the proper material to use as inserts, so I used some left over webbing from work which came in handy. There where plenty of cracks on the hood, one near the front lip at the seam join, and half of the seem spot welds had separated, at this point, I had already had some good practice with the welder, it didn't turn out too bad I think.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot], Google Adsense [Bot], lpcoating and 68 guests