3/4" free pedal travel?

1941 - 1945, MB, GPW Technical questions and discussions, regarding anything related to the WWII jeep.
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3/4" free pedal travel?

Post by fernando mendes » Tue Sep 26, 2017 6:56 am

Embreagem folga pedal.JPG
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Am I correct in my thought?
Jeep Willys MB DoD dec,16 1942 s/n:196275
Dodge B3-B 4x2 1952 s/n:90099559
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Re: 3/4" free pedal travel?

Post by Chuck Lutz » Tue Sep 26, 2017 11:15 am

Yes...with the pedal pads installed...you should have 3/4" free play before you can feel the clutch linkage moving the T/O bearing into the clutch and...the same free play before the brakes start to engage. Be careful to recheck the free play after you install the pads on each pedal so you don't end up with the brake light on all the time or worse yet, they are dragging and...that the T/O bearing isn't riding on the clutch fingers all the time either!
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Re: 3/4" free pedal travel?

Post by artificer » Tue Sep 26, 2017 2:25 pm

I always recommend checking throw out bearing position relative to the pressure plate fingers through the bell housing window.
The clearance between these parts should be about a hacksaw blade thickness or 0.025" & the bearing shouldn't start to turn when the engine is revved.
Much more accurate than pedal movement especially when accumulated mechanical wear has taken place with linkages & clevis/pivots. It also eliminates the possible 'pad' issue.
John GIBBINS Member Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers [Ret], ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician USA -2002 Licensed Motor Mech NSW MVIC 49593 Current 2015
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.

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Re: 3/4" free pedal travel?

Post by fernando mendes » Tue Sep 26, 2017 3:11 pm

Thanks to these GREAT helper friends for your inputs.My clutch is not Borg&Beck original and now after all the recovery engine last october-november-december 2016 and january 2017 it is with a strange noise when I depress the clutch pedal.
Jeep Willys MB DoD dec,16 1942 s/n:196275
Dodge B3-B 4x2 1952 s/n:90099559
CCKW 353 Banjo 1944 s/n:309623

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Re: 3/4" free pedal travel?

Post by fernando mendes » Tue Sep 26, 2017 4:55 pm

Jeep buzina.jpg
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Mine does not have pedal pads.
Jeep Willys MB DoD dec,16 1942 s/n:196275
Dodge B3-B 4x2 1952 s/n:90099559
CCKW 353 Banjo 1944 s/n:309623

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Re: 3/4" free pedal travel?

Post by fernando mendes » Tue Sep 26, 2017 5:48 pm

Hi Chuck.I was watching again my drawing and I think:where is written disengaged,the correct is "ENGAGED" and where is written engaged,the correct is "DISENGAGED".What do you think?
Jeep Willys MB DoD dec,16 1942 s/n:196275
Dodge B3-B 4x2 1952 s/n:90099559
CCKW 353 Banjo 1944 s/n:309623

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Re: 3/4" free pedal travel?

Post by fernando mendes » Sat Sep 30, 2017 4:16 pm

by Chuck Lutz » Tue Sep 26, 2017 11:15 am
Yes...with the pedal pads installed...you should have 3/4" free play before you can feel the clutch linkage moving the T/O bearing into the clutch and


I understand as like as this manner:"The clutch pedal is all down in the toe board,the transmission is in 1st shift.When I begin to loosen the pedal,in a moment the jeep begins to move.The free pedal travel or free play is the distance of the pedal since jeep began to move until its released position".Am I right?Today changed my clutch control lever cable. :idea:
DSCN4330.JPG
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Jeep Willys MB DoD dec,16 1942 s/n:196275
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Re: 3/4" free pedal travel?

Post by artificer » Sun Oct 01, 2017 1:10 am

Assumption is not right.
As explained (how to adjust free travel accurately) earlier....free travel is indicatative of how far the clutch pedal moves before the throw out bearing contacts the pressure plate fingers.

One must have this free travel so the throw out bearing is NOT turning all the time but only when the clutch is disengaged.
John GIBBINS Member Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers [Ret], ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician USA -2002 Licensed Motor Mech NSW MVIC 49593 Current 2015
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.

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Re: 3/4" free pedal travel?

Post by fernando mendes » Sun Oct 01, 2017 4:34 am

I have to understand two things:your english written and the clutch functioning.But I will continue trying.Thanks. :D
Jeep Willys MB DoD dec,16 1942 s/n:196275
Dodge B3-B 4x2 1952 s/n:90099559
CCKW 353 Banjo 1944 s/n:309623

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Re: 3/4" free pedal travel?

Post by fernando mendes » Sun Oct 01, 2017 4:55 am

As explained (how to adjust free travel accurately) earlier....free travel is indicatative of how far the clutch pedal moves before the throw out bearing contacts the pressure plate fingers.(I understand perfectly this what you wrote),and yesterday began to understand what I wrote("The clutch pedal is all down in the toe board,the transmission is in 1st shift.When I begin to loosen the pedal,in a moment the jeep begins to move.The free pedal travel or free play is the distance of the pedal since jeep began to move until its released position"),then I am mixing all.The only way to see the initial engagement of the throw out bearing is withdrawing the bellhousing plate?In my bellhousing(not MB/GPW jeep) is a window underneath it.I can see through there too.
Jeep Willys MB DoD dec,16 1942 s/n:196275
Dodge B3-B 4x2 1952 s/n:90099559
CCKW 353 Banjo 1944 s/n:309623

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Re: 3/4" free pedal travel?

Post by artificer » Sun Oct 01, 2017 5:27 am

There is a cover plate underneath a Chev bellhousing.

With a flashlight one can see or by pulling the pedal down one can feel the throw out come into contact with the fingers or diaphragm.
When this contact occurs, the distance the pedal traveled is called free travel.

Excessive free travel means there is less space between the flywheel, clutch plate & pressure plate when the clutch is disengaged.

Result clutch grabs quickly when releasing the pedal.

Free travel is critical to having the throw out bearing coming to rest when the clutch pedal is fully released. Not doing so will wear out the throw out in no time @ all.
John GIBBINS Member Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers [Ret], ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician USA -2002 Licensed Motor Mech NSW MVIC 49593 Current 2015
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.

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Re: 3/4" free pedal travel?

Post by fernando mendes » Sun Oct 01, 2017 5:29 am

Jeep Willys MB DoD dec,16 1942 s/n:196275
Dodge B3-B 4x2 1952 s/n:90099559
CCKW 353 Banjo 1944 s/n:309623

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Re: 3/4" free pedal travel?

Post by Chuck Lutz » Mon Oct 02, 2017 10:21 am

You not only need to inure that with the pedal DEPRESSED that the T/O is not spinning....

But you also need to insure that when you let the pedal UP again that the three "fingers" on the pressure plate let the pressure plate press the disc to the flywheel so it does not slip.

So, my jeep has had the linkage adjusted so that there is 3/4" of free play on the pedal...which means the T/O is no longer under pressure by the three fingers of the pressure plate...this can be as small a distance as artificer mentioned or a little more. When I begin to let my foot up off the pedal I can feel the jeep start to move a little more than "a moment". I would have to say it happens more like an inch or more up from the floor.

The clutch adjustment is a search for the "sweet spot"...you have TWO goals here. First of all, when you have your foot DOWN on the pedal the T/O must NOT spin and Second, when you have your foot OFF the pedal, the T/O must be away from the three fingers so the disc does not slip.

I use the second "notch" on my pedal to attach it to the clutch arm so I have even a shorter "throw" than most jeeps have and I did cut one of Ron's felt GPW style pedal pads in HALF to help with that shorter throw.

I have absolutely NO problems with a slipping clutch or with the T/O which I replaced when I was working on the T84 many miles ago.

By the way....there are not only different length clutch cables around now but there are pivot balls that the FORK moves on that are SHORT and now TALL....all this can effect your results....but you are on the right track I think!
Chuck Lutz

GPW 17963 4/24/42 Chester, PA. USA 20113473 (USA est./Tom W.)
Bantam T3-C 1947

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Re: 3/4" free pedal travel?

Post by fernando mendes » Mon Oct 02, 2017 4:52 pm

Pedal depressed=T/O not spinning.Spinning are flywheel,pressure plate,bracket,levers or fingers,return springs,pressure springs,driven plate or disc and facings
Pedal pressed=spinning during a moment(almost stopping) T/O,pressure plate,bracket,levers,return springs,pressure springs,disc and facings.Always spinning the flywheel.
Note:My pedal is very heavy,without free play.Tomorrow I will see if I get some free play.My clutch is not MB/GPW original Borg&Beck.It was put in august 2001.Its pressure spring is different from Borg&Beck.(How called?).Thanks very much.Regards.
Jeep Willys MB DoD dec,16 1942 s/n:196275
Dodge B3-B 4x2 1952 s/n:90099559
CCKW 353 Banjo 1944 s/n:309623

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Re: 3/4" free pedal travel?

Post by artificer » Tue Oct 03, 2017 1:48 am

Very confused/ing goal info given in the last posts.

The throw out bearing always turns @ engine speed when in contact with the pressure plate fingers (or diaphragm) up to & including when the pedal is fully depressed & the clutch is disengaged.

The free play is there to ensure the bearing doesn't turn when the clutch is engaged & one's foot is off the pedal.

Riding the clutch (leaving foot on the pedal), no or insufficient free travel will cause rapid failure of the throw out bearing.
John GIBBINS Member Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers [Ret], ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician USA -2002 Licensed Motor Mech NSW MVIC 49593 Current 2015
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.


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