New Head Gasket leak

1941 - 1945, MB, GPW Technical questions and discussions, regarding anything related to the WWII jeep.
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pmhslight
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New Head Gasket leak

Post by pmhslight » Fri Jun 23, 2017 8:31 pm

Hi Everyone

This is a little long but I want to give a lot of info in hopes someone can help me. When I got my 1942 Willys Slat grill there was some minor seepage from a few studs at the top of the block. To make a long story short, I pulled the head off. Cleaned off the old gasket, replaced the incorrect and old studs with new studs, sealed the threads with tephlon, and installed a new copper gasket (lightly coated with copper spray,), installed the head, torqued everything to spec, in the order which is specified. Also important to note, there were 3 very very minor cracks between 3 stud holes and water jackets (all internal and none near the edge of the engine or near pistons). When I installed the new gasket I had a little difficulty sliding it down the studs and had to play with it, gently, to get it to fit into position. I also think that when I was cleaning off the old gasket I may have made the block side "slightly", VERY VERY slightly, uneven. I had the head sent to a machine shop for decking and sandblasting.

Fast forward to today, 2 months later. I re-assembled everything. Filled the radiator with coolant and proceeded to fill with oil. When I was done pouring the oil I looked very carefully at the head and could see some VERY VERY MINOR seepage of coolant where the gasket meets between the head and block. I really do mean minor - if I took a tissue and ran it along the seam, It became moist - but by no means wet. I was very concerned because the engine wasn't even started yet, there was no pressure, no heat, etc, yet I can see some fluid.

I checked the torque of all bolts and they are all at 67lbs. I then started the engine. I still see fluid almost all around the perimeter of the head. It is not dripping, it is not flowing, but it is there. If I wipe it up. it returns. On the other side (side near the thermostat sensor), there is less, and it appears to be bubbling / boiling as the engine is hot (180 degrees).

I am devastated as I do not want to have to take everything apart again and replace the gasket again. Is there anything that can be done?
Is there any easy fix? Permatex around where the seal is between head / block?

is this leak something that should cause me to do a full stop, pull the head, engine, etc?

I have attached a video on youtube. Pardon the low light but if you look carefully you can see the fluid between the head and block where the gasket is. I think what concerns me the most is that I saw it when I filled the radiator before the engine had even run.

Should I run the engine for an extended amount and drive it? Will it seal? Since putting the head, gasket, etc etc etc on the engine, I have only run it for 15 minutes and not actually driven it.

Totally lost and really would appreciate some guidance. For obvious reasons I really do not wish to disassemble my recently assembled Jeep.

Here is the Link to the video:


https://youtu.be/qel70C7Ofgg


Thank you as always for the guidance and help
Jason


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artificer
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Re: New Head Gasket leak

Post by artificer » Fri Jun 23, 2017 9:59 pm

Pretty normal.
Run without pressure cap screwed right down for a few days & the leak will most likely be gone.
Then retorque the cylinder head in the correct sequence & fit the radiator cap properly.

Your other timing cover thread:
That rivet is the tab inside the cover that the spring loaded camshaft thrust plunger runs on.
You do have this spring loaded plunger in there?
Frankly @ your stage & the good job you've done so far I would remove the timing cover, clean away paint, re-peen the rivet & bronze it in place to fully seal, rather than fool around.

I notice down below the splash guard & spacers are not in place so the screws are too long & the one shown has had the thread damaged. Be very careful removing not to damage the timing cover thread.
You should check the rest as the centre ones have a habit of perforating the cover when they are too long & that becomes another oil leak.
If you are not fitting the splash shield you need shorter bolts.
John GIBBINS Member Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers [Ret], ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician USA -2002 Licensed Motor Mech NSW MVIC 49593 Current 2015
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.

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