1943 Willys MB Flywheel Bolt-Up

[Lil Patton]

I have my T-84 Transmission and Transfer Case out. So I decided to remove the flywheel and have it resurfaced. The bolts that hold the flywheel to the crankshaft come from the engine side with a lock washer and nut on the clutch side of the flywheel. First, the bolts are not long enough to get the lock washer on with a full nut. Second, one of the bolt's threads is stripped and I can't get a nut on it. To remove the bolts you would have to remove the crankshaft. I am trying to find another option. I have 2 options that I thought of and wanted someone's opinion who has had this problem before. First option is to use a grinder with a cutting wheel and cut off the head of the bolts and replace with a stud where I would have a nut on each side. My second option would be to again cut the heads off of the bolts and tap the crankshaft and use bolts from the clutch side of the flywheel. I am a new member and this is my first post. Thanks in advance.

[dpcd67]

Do you have the original two tapered dowels, or do you have the replacement, two large straight ones? In either case, the best thing to do is remove the bearing cap and replace them with the correct ones. Studs with two nuts; no. You need the two tapered dowels, or the straight dowel bolts to hold the flywheel true.

[Lil Patton]

Yes, I do have the 2 tapered dowels. When I try to tighten the nuts, it turns in the back with nothing to grab on to. I could leave the dowels on and replace the other 4.

[Joe Gopan]

A little finger pressure on the back of the tapered dowel usually does it, you can use a small pry bar. The 3/8" NF Nuts are actually "Stud Nuts". For washers, they should be Internal Tooth Lock Washers.

[Joe Gopan]

The bolts can be replaced by removing the rear main cap. This takes patience as the cap should have gasket sealer stuck to the sides. I use two 10" tapered punches inserted into the bolt holes of the cap and rocking it while squeezing the punches together.
It takes patience. Do not try to pry the cap with screw drivers or you may break a chunk out of the grooves.

[Wolfman]

There is very little clearance between the head of the bolt and the block or rear main bearing cap on the back of the crank flange. Studs with nuts on the back is not an option.
Like Joel said ( Ben Dover ), if the studs or bolts have to be removed from the crankshaft, the oil pan and rear main cap must come off.
Sounds like you are headed for a tool salesman.
The nuts are fine thread, not course thread in case you didn't catch that.
A tappet wrench will reach the bolt head on the back of the flywheel and crank flange. This is a long thin wrench. Has a long reach. Will fit in between the flange and rear main cap.
Thread chaser. A set of thread cleaning dies made like nuts. Start them on a damaged thread, on a bolt or stud and use a wrench or socket to screw them on. As they go on they clean up the damaged thread. The cutting thread inside the thread chaser is straight instead of tapered so the threads are repaired all the way to the surface of what ever the fastener is in.
The taper on the two dowel bolts hold the tapered stud while tightening the nuts. These should be thin jam nuts for clearance on the tapered studs. Not regular nuts.
The lock washers should be thin, external star washers. Not normal split type lock washers. Again for clearance between the nut and clutch disc. Using the wrong lock washer may be why you are not getting full thread through the nuts.
The 4 bolts are held by a lip on the front face of the crankshaft flange. Once the nuts are loose, the head can slip forward and the lip will not hold the bolt head. it will turn.
Also, be sure one of the flats on the hex head of the bolt is against lip so the bolt is flat against the crank flange. You do not want the tip of one of the hex head bolts sitting on the lip.
The bolts and tapered studs can be held by placing a long, flat blade screw driver in behind the flywheel and crank flange to hold the 4 bolts and 2 studs against the crank flange while loosening or tightening the nuts. This will work instead of tappet wrench if the bolt heads have not been damaged.
Did I cover it all ??
Oh, Welcome to the "G" !

[Lil Patton]

Thanks Ben and Mike for your responses. I think you both have everything covered. The existing lock washers are the split type lock washers. By using the thin external star washers will help with getting a full nut on the bolts. Only on one of the bolts is the treads messed up. When I say messed up I mean that the threads are gone and the nuts slides on the bolt up to the 2 threads that are sticking out to the flywheel. If I use a thread Chaser, I don't know if I will have to go down in a size. I'm not trying to get out of work, but I'm trying to solve this problem without removing the bearing cap. If I can use the thread chaser and the thin external star washers, I think my problem will be solved. As a last resort, I will remove the bearing cap and replace all bolting. Thanks again for your responses and look forward to being part of the "G"!

[Joe Gopan]

It won't miss one nut, but what happens if the loose bolt contacts the bearing cap? It won't be nice.

[Lil Patton]

I'm not going to let one nut loose. I'm hoping I can get the thread chaser to work. When I'm done it will be right.

[Wolfman]

If the bolt is stripped as bad as you say, A thread chaser won't be much help.
If you can get to 5/16, It was original 3/8-24 and can secure the bolt, you will be OK.
As Ben said. Don't leave it loose. The bolt will work forward and catch on the block while the crank is turning.
From there, it gets real ugly !

[Lil Patton]

I will take the flywheel out again and look at all of my options. I think I can buy a 5/16 thread chaser and fix that one bolt. Is there any chance either Ben or Mike could give me a call. My number is 504-391-6521. I have also attached a picture of my Jeep.

[Lil Patton]

I took your advice and removed the rear main cap and removed the existing studs. I am ordering the correct studs today from Ron Fitzpatrick Jeep Parts. Thanks again for the good advice. Also, I would like to talk to you about getting hood numbers for my jeep. Is there a way to get new hood numbers? If you have a chance could you give me a call @ 504-390-9756. I am here until 4:30 CST.

[Wolfman]

Good move.
50 years experience has proven, the best way to do something is the right way.
Might be a little more work up front but will reward you down the road.
Don't know much about hood numbers.
I think it is serial number related but some one else could give you better intel.
Soon as I get off here, I am going to be leaving.
I am getting old but my customers won't let me quit.
Places to be and a time to be there.

[Lil Patton]

There are no numbers on the front chassis, the tub is new and the engine has been replaced. I understand you can apply for new hood numbers. If anyone has information on this can you please reply.

[tamnalan]

Check out this page: http://g503.com/oldsite/serial-numbers/. Most guys just do the best they can. In your case, since the frame and DOD tags are gone and you have a repro tub, then the hood number can be anything you want.

My MB has the frame, body and engine numbers but is missing the DOD - so the hood number is my parents' wedding date: 14111952