Hi all.
I rebuilt transmission and transfer box . made nice and clean . New gaskets. i also replaced the engine sump/well gasket again and again and again. i cleaned components and got them grease free. Smeared with gasket sealer , added gasket . Another layer of sealer. Put all together tighten up. Leave till next day . Go out for a drive . Maybe a little exaggeration but i have seen teabags hold more fluids.
I'm sure there is someone on here who has been through the same thing and now knows a trick or too . What is out there that seam welds it all together .PLEASE SHARE ?
regards
gasket sealer or substitute
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- Sergeant Major of the Gee
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gasket sealer or substitute
ford GPW
Y.O.M 1943
DOD 5/29/43
FRAME 119158
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Y.O.M 1943
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Re: gasket sealer or substitute
Select good Permatex type [or equivalent] sealants & do not over tighten!
Gasket thickness is really important & repro stuff is problematic from what we hear on G503.
Gasket thickness is really important & repro stuff is problematic from what we hear on G503.
John GIBBINS Member Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers [Ret], ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician USA -2002 Licensed Motor Mech NSW MVIC 49593 Current 2015
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.
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Re: gasket sealer or substitute
Which gasket locations had the worst leaks? Remember, some bolt threads go thru to the inside of the gear boxes, etc., and threads must be sealed. I still recommend the old fashioned OEM Sealer standby's such as Permatex #2 (non Hardening) and Permatex #3 (Liquid).
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HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
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HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
LIFE MEMBER AM LEGION-40/8-DAV
7 MIL SPEC MAINTAINED MV'S
COL. BRUNO BROOKS (ARMY MOTORS) IS MY HERO
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Re: gasket sealer or substitute
The first problem with a leak is determining exactly where the leak is. By the time you drive around, oil runs down and is blown all over. Hard to tell what is leaking.
First, clean up the suspected areas with degreaser. Wash off and let dry. Then go for a short drive. Come back. Get under the jeep and check it out.
Once you pinpoint the spot that is leaking, then you have a better chance of stopping it and we will have a better idea for a solution.
On the T-case/transmission. A common leak source is the bolts that attach the two together. Some of the lower rear bolt holes and the front bolt that is between the transmission and transfer case are open on the inside to oil. They need a thread sealer applied to the threads to seal them.
As for the oil pan. Beside clean and dry, it needs to be flat. Warpage or the area around the bolt holes being pulled up by repeated over tightening will keep a pan gasket from sealing. Beside the pan gasket itself, oil running down from the tappet cover, oil pump, rear seal, front seal, timing cover, fuel pump. What did I miss ? Get my point ?
One old saying that comes to mind. " If a jeep ain't leaking oil, it is probably out ! " Time to worry !
As for sealers, the silicone gasket maker type ( Ultra Black. Not bathtub sealer ) is good at sealing gaps but that is like putting a bandaide on a laceration. It has to be used correctly or it oozes out and makes a big mess ! Better to fix the original problem.
First, clean up the suspected areas with degreaser. Wash off and let dry. Then go for a short drive. Come back. Get under the jeep and check it out.
Once you pinpoint the spot that is leaking, then you have a better chance of stopping it and we will have a better idea for a solution.
On the T-case/transmission. A common leak source is the bolts that attach the two together. Some of the lower rear bolt holes and the front bolt that is between the transmission and transfer case are open on the inside to oil. They need a thread sealer applied to the threads to seal them.
As for the oil pan. Beside clean and dry, it needs to be flat. Warpage or the area around the bolt holes being pulled up by repeated over tightening will keep a pan gasket from sealing. Beside the pan gasket itself, oil running down from the tappet cover, oil pump, rear seal, front seal, timing cover, fuel pump. What did I miss ? Get my point ?
One old saying that comes to mind. " If a jeep ain't leaking oil, it is probably out ! " Time to worry !
As for sealers, the silicone gasket maker type ( Ultra Black. Not bathtub sealer ) is good at sealing gaps but that is like putting a bandaide on a laceration. It has to be used correctly or it oozes out and makes a big mess ! Better to fix the original problem.
Mike Wolford
CJ-2A
VEP GPW
Comm./Inst. SEL
AOPA ( 50 yrs)
EAA ( 49 yrs)
4th Inf. Div. - 5th Inf. Div. - 2nd Armor Div. - CIB
CJ-2A
VEP GPW
Comm./Inst. SEL
AOPA ( 50 yrs)
EAA ( 49 yrs)
4th Inf. Div. - 5th Inf. Div. - 2nd Armor Div. - CIB
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Re: gasket sealer or substitute
If you have a real leak, as it drips during the inspection, then there is something seriously not assembled correctly. How confident are you in your rear main seal installation? How smooth are the sealing surfaces on your output yokes? I use only Permatex #2 on gaskets, but those two places have to be perfect from the start. As stated, first determine where it is coming from, and is it engine or gear, oil.
U. S. Army 28 years.
Armor Branch
Armor Branch
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Re: gasket sealer or substitute
thanks all . I will pressure wash it all off and see were the leak is and go from there . regards
ford GPW
Y.O.M 1943
DOD 5/29/43
FRAME 119158
H.N 20382716 ish
Y.O.M 1943
DOD 5/29/43
FRAME 119158
H.N 20382716 ish
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