Re-Try Crank Installation Next Week

1941 - 1945, MB, GPW Technical questions and discussions, regarding anything related to the WWII jeep.
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shellshock
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Re-Try Crank Installation Next Week

Post by shellshock » Sun Feb 22, 2015 3:20 pm

Hi Guys,
Well I was installing my crankshaft today and having a really good day. I had my rope seals soaking in motor oil over night. The garage heater made a nice warm environment. I had the radio on and Taylor Swift was "shakin it". (BOB radio they play everything) I trolled this site for all the information and videos on installing rope seals. I plastigaged my crank .002 - .003 readings.
Cleaned the plasigage of the bearing shells and commenced the rope seal installation. Here is where I made my error.....I should have removed the rear bearing shell before installing the rope seal. But I will get that later.
I laid a red shop towel over the rear bearing shell and started setting the rope seal in place using a hammer and 1 inch socket on its side. working my way from the center out to the ends. setting the rope seal in place. I cut the rope seal with sharp scissors and fine trimmed it as someone here on the G suggested with a battery powered beard trimmer. IT REALLY WORKS.
After the rope seal was installed, I pre lubed all the bearing shells and installed the crank. Torqued the center cap first to 50. turned crank...ok. Then the front torqued to 50...ok but a little tighter crank rotation. Torqued the rear to 50 things got really tight. I finished torque on all the bolts to 65 because I wanted to seat that rope seal. I turned the very stiff crank shaft about 10 turns fwd and back. If I were to add pistons and rods to this ...I would not be able to turn it. Removed all the caps and removed the crank......best rope seal installation I have ever done...a thing of beauty....however it was at a cost. I discovered that I had damaged the rear shell in the process of knocking in the rope seal. The socket must have rocked a little during the pounding process and dented the bearing surface causing a ripple effect. I am pretty sure this must be what is causing my crankshaft to be too tight to turn correctly. So now I have to buy a new bearing set. A costly mistake. I thought I would post this as a warning to to others.

What is the best way to remove a bearing shell without damaging it?

Dave
David O'Neal
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M1917 WW1 Ford Ambulance
GPW 267717 DOD 5-9-45
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Re: Re-Try Crank Installation Next Week

Post by artificer » Sun Feb 22, 2015 3:46 pm

Bearings can be bought as singles.
Always fit the shaft, plasti-gauge, torque the main bearings BEFORE you fit the seal/s no matter what type.
With the plastigauge removed & the shaft re-torqued in place, the shaft should turn freely & NOT lockup....then remove the shaft & shell/s if you want & fit the seal. How you do this is up to you.
John GIBBINS Member Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers [Ret], ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician USA -2002 Licensed Motor Mech NSW MVIC 49593 Current 2015
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.

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Re: Re-Try Crank Installation Next Week

Post by Joe Gopan » Sun Feb 22, 2015 3:53 pm

A wooden dowel or hammer handle is a safer choice of tool to roll the seal in. You can also use a wood dowel placed at the edge of the bearing shell and a couple light taps of a hammer to jar the insert out of place.
2011 MVPA PIONEER AWARD - MVPA #1064
HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
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shellshock
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Re: Re-Try Crank Installation Next Week

Post by shellshock » Sun Feb 22, 2015 4:27 pm

Great ideas guys. What you both say makes a lot of sense. That's the experience factor. I wish you were both in my garage today sipping on some coffee while you watched me work.
I will try to order a single bearing thanks for the advice. Right now the crank is not in my engine.
Looks like I will have to remove that wonderful rope seal so i can install the crank properly without a seal first to check the fit. Then I can put another rope seal in.
Dave
David O'Neal
http://www.ww1history.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
M1917 WW1 Ford Ambulance
GPW 267717 DOD 5-9-45
MVPA 34990

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Re: Re-Try Crank Installation Next Week

Post by artificer » Sun Feb 22, 2015 5:27 pm

Remove the new rope seal carefully then re-roll in place when you have done the rest. Get a 1-1.5" rolling pin [like the Chinese use]. This is all you need with effort applied to each end when rolling the seal.
John GIBBINS Member Institute of Automotive Mechanical Engineers [Ret], ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician USA -2002 Licensed Motor Mech NSW MVIC 49593 Current 2015
TO DIAGNOSE, TROUBLESHOOT OR FAULT FIND ANY AUTO SYSTEM....
Understand how system parts interact with one another. GOOD parts can then be established & the NOT GOOD problem/s part/s isolated for repair or replacement.

Joe Gopan
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Posts: 49841
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2008 12:37 pm
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Re: Re-Try Crank Installation Next Week

Post by Joe Gopan » Mon Feb 23, 2015 3:28 am

Remember not to pound the rope seal into place, but to carefully roll it from the center out. The seal must also be oil soaked and slightly flattened.
2011 MVPA PIONEER AWARD - MVPA #1064
HONOR GRAD-WHEELED VEHICLE MECHANIC SCHOOL 1960 - US ARMY ORDNANCE SCHOOL(MACHINIST) ABERDEEN PG 1962 - O-1 BIRD DOG CREWCHIEF - 300,000+TROUBLE FREE M-38A1 MILES
LIFE MEMBER AM LEGION-40/8-DAV
7 MIL SPEC MAINTAINED MV'S
COL. BRUNO BROOKS (ARMY MOTORS) IS MY HERO


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