Factory Class Restoration of Old Pal - *GPW 13551*

[nick peters]

Hello Mate
Yes I believe you'll find that both axles front and rear have the ratio tags. I cannot say if this is the case for all early/mid/late gpws. I know I have them on my 45 gpws. Also I'm unsure if you find them on mbs.
regards Nick

[Old Pal]

I was able to finally start bolting stuff on the frame today and made some good progress. I thought I was going to be able to have a rolling frame by the end of the weekend but I hit a snag. The U-bolts I have are mostly all the same size.

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[Old Pal]

Well, I made progress over the last couple of days despite missing some important parts, namely the correct rear ubolts. I'm finally down to a one page checklist for the chassis. I still have a shopping list of nuts, bolts, washers, etc. that I need to locate in my shop or source elsewhere. Here's a visual of what I have completed:

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[Old Pal]

I purchased a view parts that don't seem correct:

1.) The spring bolts seem too long and I know it's not one for the torque reaction spring. I had in my possession a reproduction spring bolt mount. I ended up using an original but the reproduction was slightly wider than the original. I would bet that the spring bolt is made for the reproduction. I think the reproduction spring bolts came from Ron. Anyone know where to source the correct length spring bolts?

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2.) The rubber brake line hoses don't sit correctly. The part that goes through the hole seems too long so when the clip is attached the hose is still crooked and wobbles. This may be because the hose is an import. Anybody else have this issue? Is this normal? Do the higher quality hoses still have this issue, specifically the new Joes Motor Pool hoses?

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[Old Pal]

I'm trying to figure out what the correct steering box is for Old Pal. I think a Ross is correct, although Jeepdraw indicates only Ford boxes were used. I know this topic has been discussed before. The box on the left is the one I pulled off of Old Pal. It looks like someone went crazy with a sledge hammer to try and get the seal to stop leaking. Since I'm doing a factory class, the bashed in portion is less than desirable. The castings are almost identical except the one on the left has a "1" and the one on the right has a "2" cast into it. The one on the left has additional numbers stamped.

Also, the plug on the right has a pin running down the center. The one on the left does not.

Any help and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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So, I'm getting to the point where I need to decide which steering box to use. I also have a Ford marked box. Which is correct? When did the F marked boxes first show up? The one I took out is the one that was damaged and, under the grease, was painted a Hunter Green color. My guess is not original to the GPW.

[Old Pal]

I think I've settled on using a Ross steering box. Thank you to those that have provided information.

Aside from the steering box, heat shield, and a few odds and ends, the rolling chassis is completed. One major question I have is the issue of the brake line routing and clips/clamps. I have a set of NOS clips, but I need to figure out where the clamps go. I think one clip goes to the front brake line on the outside/inner rail. The other clip goes on the inner rail but I don't know if it goes on the inside our outside. I've seen most people run the brake line on the inside of the frame, beginning at the machine gun mount crossmember, but I came across this photo of my original frame:

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Anybody have any original photographs?

As for the clamps; the parts manual indicates two are required with machine screws (Anybody have machine screw photos?). One, I believe goes on the inside/outer frame rail near the triangle shaped hole, here:

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I've read that one goes on the machine gun crossmember but it doesn't look like I have any extra holes.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

[Old Pal]

Dexter came through for me and took a few pics of his early '42 brake line clips/clamps. All photos, I think, are self explanatory as to location.

Here is a photo showing the 1/4" nut and lock washer on the outside of the frame:

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And the clamp on the opposite side:

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Here is a photo of the clip, on the interior of the frame, directly in front of the machine gun mount crossmember:

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There doesn't seem to be a clip or clamp on the machine gun crossmember.

[Old Pal]

I know one of the long lead time items is going to be canvas and straps. Because this is VEP I need little guidance. I will be going through Weebee Webbing but I need to make sure I place the correct order. I'm not sure if everything I need will be available, but I want to know what is accurate before I contact Dave.

For straps I know I need C-tips. As for the correct buckles, I'm still researching. I think I'll need the following straps: Axe and Shovel straps, top bow straps, door safety straps, and top stowage straps for underneath the passenger seat. Any other?

The top will have an extra strap in the rear because I'm not installing a jerry can. Is there a difference at the top of the windshield for the push button style attachment vs capstan?

The rear seat is zippered, correct? Which direction does it close?

Front and rear seats will need to be rubberized cattle hair but, as far as I know, all manufactures are doing foam. I think I can source the rubberized cattle hair but the question is will Dave install it.

No springs for the front or rear seats.

Three tabs for the rear seats. I've read about a pocket for the rear seat. Anybody know any additional information for this?

Any help is appreciated.

[macaddict23]

Farrell Fox here in G503 makes a great reproduction GPW top and other canvas items.

Dexter

[Chuck Lutz]

Added to what you have mentioned:

Buckles have the anchor stamped on them, are black parked/phosphate
You need hip pads & headlight covers
Windshield cover with Push-type fittings
No difference to top fittings with push type or capstan studs
No seat springs
Front have zippers that close from RR to LF
Rear has zipper that closes from L to R (zipper across back of seat pad)

Good luck with canvas doors...

[Old Pal]

Added to what you have mentioned:

Buckles have the anchor stamped on them, are black parked/phosphate
You need hip pads & headlight covers
Windshield cover with Push-type fittings
No difference to top fittings with push type or capstan studs
No seat springs
Front have zippers that close from RR to LF
Rear has zipper that closes from L to R (zipper across back of seat pad)

Good luck with canvas doors...

Were headlight covers and windshield cover standard factory items?
I'm assuming the hip pads also are filled with rubberized cattle hair.
Assuming the good luck is for making the canvas doors fit?

[Chuck Lutz]

Yes...
Yes...
Yes...

My April 1942 GPW PARTS TM-10-1348 lists them.

[Niblet]

Jeep draw has some nice pics on how the hip pads are constructred

[Old Pal]

Jeep draw has some nice pics on how the hip pads are constructred

Those are more complex than I expected. Interesting that the earlier seats didn't have springs but the hip pads did.

[Old Pal]

Well, it hasn't been a good week for progress. Between the three attempts at the timing chain cover and now this:

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I've known, pretty much from the beginning, that I needed a right hand fill transmission. I guess I was a little too close to the Permatex when painting and assembling. I just realized that I assembled a left hand fill.

The good news is I think I've located the correct transmission. The bad news..... I have to do the same work twice.

Looks like I'll have a good painted GPW transmission for sale soon.