GPW Autolite Distributor 4705 rebuild info?

Doug L. · Post by **Doug L.** » Sat Feb 15, 2014 1:33 pm

I decided to go ahead and disassemble my 4705 5X. How's the condition of this shaft? Also, what's the best place to purchase a small parts repair kit and is it necessary to have it "recurved" once I've finished rebuilding it?

Chuck Lutz · Post by **Chuck Lutz** » Sat Feb 15, 2014 1:49 pm

Since there is no way to gauge the "end play" or wobble on a disassembled shaft if it does not meet the specs posted above then it needs maintenance/repairs...it is not possible to tell the "condition" visually beyond what some cleaning up with a wire wheel and some solution might accomplish.

Small parts kit? Did you try Ron?

"It is necessary to set up the distributor advance if it needs it?"....how do you tell if it needs it? Put it on a machine and you will get the answer you seek.

Doug L. · Post by **Doug L.** » Sat Feb 15, 2014 1:57 pm

Hey Chuck, I tried Ron and he said he doesn't sell the small parts kits. thanks for your help.
I'll be looking for a shop whom can check my advance.

Bill M · Post by **Bill M** » Sat Feb 15, 2014 2:31 pm

Hello Doug,
the bronze bushes are spaced apart when installed in the housing, there should be an unworn area to measure for any wear in the distributor shaft.
I would be using this measurement to evaluate the bearing areas of the shaft. If you have a reliable flat surface it would be prudent to check it for bend.
The .043" end play you measured earlier is excessive but you may be able to rectify that with a new thrust washers.
Wire wheels are crude and I would NOT recommend using one on a precision ground shaft, scotch brite is a less aggressive and is what we use in the machine shop for work like this.
Cheers
Bill.

Doug L. · Post by **Doug L.** » Sat Mar 22, 2014 7:01 pm

Ok, since I'm still waiting on my block to have some cracks and threads repaired, I decided to pull the distributor out again. I talked to Kirk at willys distributors and he's really backed up, so I'm attempting the rebuild myself.

I ran into a prob with my 5X's shaft. The piece that the advance spring hooks over on my shaft broke.

So I pulled the shaft from my spare 1X thinking I'd use it. I was able to make the weight pins tight by pinging the bottom as suggested by Kirk. Now, I noticed my weights might be slightly crooked. Is this ok? I'm using NOS weights from Brent's. They do swing freely.

(First weight)

(Second weight)

With my rebuild, I plan to have the shaft polished, replace an ream both bushings, replace advance springs, install small parts kit, replace points and condenser, replace cap and rotor, paint housing, and have it recurved.

Does all this sound good? Any tips? Thanks

Doug

051743GPW · Post by **051743GPW** » Sun Mar 23, 2014 6:02 am

Doug

I rebuilt my IAD 4705 Also, basically I replaced the bushings, springs (IAD 4008's)and weights (also pts, cond. cap & rotor). I have an original cap & rotor, but just to be sure. My hooks on my shaft were cut into by the springs, so I reinforced welded them, I think you could weld the broken end on with a mig welder. Interestingly enough the weld causes the spring to sit out about 1 coil distance, the difference between the 4705 and 4008 springs. I am suspicious of polishing the shaft with anything abrasive. I can't seem to find the little rubber plug (AB in diagram), so I may have to make one? One reason I wanted to use my existing shaft was the key on the bottom was like new, and that could play as much of a part in operation as side play or end play or advance weight shaft tolerance.

Hope this helps.

Mark

: IGC 4705 Shaft Plate DSCN9050.jpg (133.62 KiB) Viewed 4781 times

Doug L. · Post by **Doug L.** » Sun Mar 23, 2014 8:41 am

Hi Mark,

Wouldn't adding a reinforcement weld throw the balance off on the shaft? My spare shaft's hooks seem to have little wear compared to my first shaft. The small parts kits out there include part AB.

My key on my spare shaft appears to be good. Only little play when I insert it in my oil pump.

Thanks,

Doug

051743GPW · Post by **051743GPW** » Sun Mar 23, 2014 2:16 pm

Doug

I welded on both sides so weight gain was equal, both of your keys look good enough to me. As long as the weights pivot freely with no binding it seems as though you are good to go.

Charlie S. · Post by **Charlie S.** » Fri Mar 28, 2014 2:36 pm

Dear Sirs,
tks a lot for the good photos and the info regarding this distributor
I found one IGC 4705 12 V in a very bad condition, but I want to see if I can restore it.

12 V shown in the plate, means Dec 1941 ?
Where can I find some missing parts as springs and weight for it ?
Tks a lot in advance for your information.
Cheers

Doug L. · Post by **Doug L.** » Fri Mar 28, 2014 5:14 pm

Hey Charlie, I've seen worse! I'm currently restoring the blue distributor pictured early. I'll post some pics of my progress.

Ron has NOS springs and Brent Mullins has NOS weights.

Doug

Charlie S. · Post by **Charlie S.** » Sat Mar 29, 2014 6:03 am

Hi Doug,
thanks a lot for your answer and information.
I used a lot of WD-40 in order to try to remove the rusted part and see what I´ll find below

Maybe the weights and springs can be saved.
Unfortunately here in Argentina is very difficult to find this original parts, so we need to recover all the parts we find !!
Cheers and good luck with your restoration.
Charlie Saguier

vladimirushuaia · Post by **vladimirushuaia** » Sat Mar 29, 2014 8:29 am

Hola Charlie,
segui con el Spen no te distraigas con el distri

Abrazo

Doug L. · Post by **Doug L.** » Sat Apr 19, 2014 9:37 pm

Well, I did it! How's it look? I had my machinist press in new bushings and honed to .001"-.0015" side clearance. Kurt At WillysDistributors recurved it for me and it it works flawlessly!

I installed new weights and a small parts kit from brent mullins and points, condenser, and springs from Ron.

Doug L. · Post by **Doug L.** » Sat Jun 07, 2014 5:22 pm

Got this in the mail today. Paid $30 for it off ebay. Correct manual for all the auto lite parts?

Chuck Lutz · Post by **Chuck Lutz** » Sun Jun 08, 2014 9:20 am

I'm still trying to understand why if the 4705 and 4008 use DIFFERENT shafts and DIFFERENT weights and DIFFERENT springs for them.....why using the SRINGS for a 4008 in a 4705 would be a good idea and would actually have the same tension and allow for the same rate of advance as the ones originally specified for the 4705?

I guess if you are spit-balling it and not having the distributor set up on a machine to factory specifications you wouldn't have a clue how the performance might be effected at higher RPMs when you first install it and are checking it out at idle...only when you are under a load and going through the gears at higher revs would that seem to be a potential problem....I know guys have just re-bushed and restored the dizzys and have used them but I don't know if that is a hit & miss/blind luck issue or what?

I wonder if Doug L. can possibly post the specs for testing the 4705 and the 4008 on a machine in case we are able to locate a shop to do that but they might not have the specs handy?

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