Engine ticking. Edit: Found the culprit !!

[artificer]

I am not suggesting it is your p[roblem & I can't decipher anything from the video clips, but a broken ring/s can cause an ellusive ticking noise, when embedded in the top of a piston.

[ElwoodJayBlues]

Hi folks,

thanks for all your ideas and input!

Ben: I removed the fanbelt and the noise was still there. I can pretty clearly say that it comes from the area of the 3rd cylinder.

The domed- head valve idea is good, but the valves are correct, as is the dipstick! In fact, the dipstick is the first thing I pull out whenever my engine makes a new strange noise!

Can't say anything about the rings yet as I would have to take the head off for that.... again.

I got the feeling that ist is either a broken valve spring (but then the noise would be always there?) or a battered valve tappet.

I'll see what I can find.

Thanks for all your help!
If you got more ideas, let me know!

EJB

[Ben Dover]

There are other far fetched sources of "tinny" noises that appear from time to time, such as parts scraping inside the distributor. Remove your cap and check the carbon contact and look for signs of scuffing. Another clicking noise that is engine related is a weak or broken fuel pump rocker arm spring or flutter from the Heat Control Valve. Valves contacting the cyl head are a lot louder and would get more intense at higher RPM.
My suspicions are still with the valves as the above suggestions do not make the same noise you are experiencing. How are you adjusting them, hot or cold? Cold is the correct way. You could check them hot with the engine running , it is touchy, but inserting .016" feeler gauage at each valve with the engine running may single out the valve that is making the noise. (the broken ring suggestion is a remote possibility and should not be discounted)
Wish you were closer.

[ElwoodJayBlues]

Another question for the specialists:

Is it possible to remove the adjusting screws from the tappets while they are in the block and the valves are in place?
Maybe by removing the valve springs?

I could then fix the surface of the adjusting bolts in a lathe or put in new bolts.

But my guess is it won't work, cause the bolts are just too long.

Anyone?

[Ben Dover]

You will not have sufficient room to remove the screws, the surface is normally reconditioned br precision grinding while installed on the tappet, it would be very difficult to chuck just the screws alone in a lathe due to the split in the middle of the threads. It is also doubtful that you could remove the springs with the valves in the block. Have you considered testing the adjustment with the engine idling, it may help you isolate the problem valve as the noise may change.

[echelon1]

Another question for the specialists:

Is it possible to remove the adjusting screws from the tappets while they are in the block and the valves are in place?
Maybe by removing the valve springs?

I could then fix the surface of the adjusting bolts in a lathe or put in new bolts.

But my guess is it won't work, cause the bolts are just too long.

Anyone?

I think I saw a post from 41jeeps with pictures where you can see that it is not possible to remove the adjusting screws without removing the head.
Not even with the springs fully depressed with a valve spring compressor.
Am not sure what you are trying to acomplish, the adjusting screws are not your issue unless I missed something, and if you want to resurface them a valve grinding tool is needed.
A cutting tool on a lathe will not work as the tappet surface is hardened.
If one of the tappet surfaces is damaged as I think is a possible cause for your problem the head needs to come off and the valves out.
My course of action would be to to some trails and confirm the suggestions already offered.
After that the time is right to think how to replace the parts found at fault.

Gindi.

[artificer]

cause the bolts are just too long.

This I do not understand?

To allow for wear in the top face of the adjusting screw, Pete Silfven rightly suggested eons ago that if you know the thread pitch you can work out how to adjust the tappet [in the normal adjustment position] without feelers.
Screw up to reduce clearance & get no play, then back off 2 [for 0.014"] & a smidgen more, castellations [flats on nut] for 0.016".
This method will allow for in service wear & get a more accurate adjustment.
You could also use a dial gauge to achieve the same outcome.

[ElwoodJayBlues]

Am not sure what you are trying to acomplish, the adjusting screws are not your issue unless I missed something,

Gindi.

I think my problem is that some of the adjusting screws top surfaces are worn and not straight anymore.
But I can't say for sure yet, as I need to find some free time with my jeep.
Maybe this friday.

EJB

[artificer]

I think my problem is that some of the adjusting screws top surfaces are worn and not straight anymore.

If that is the case the last post I sent will eliminate that issue.

[ElwoodJayBlues]

I think my problem is that some of the adjusting screws top surfaces are worn and not straight anymore.

If that is the case the last post I sent will eliminate that issue.

Hey, remember, your mother language is not mine... And the more technical terms and slang is in a sentence the more often I need to read it to get it...

But after reading it for quite a few times I got what you mean.

Will try that, thank you!

[Gustl]

Screw up to reduce clearance & get no play, then back off 2 [for 0.014"] & a smidgen more, castellations [flats on nut] for 0.016".

Elwood:
Once you have found out, what John is telling us here, could you translate please?

Best Wishes for an easy fix of your problem

[ElwoodJayBlues]

Klar:

Er nutzt die bekannte Gewindesteigung, um das Ventilspiel einzustellen:
Die Einstellschrauben bis zum Anschlag hochdrehen und dann zwei Flanken des Sechskants und ein Ideechen mehr wieder runterdrehen.
Dann hat man genau 0,016 Zoll Spiel.
Das berücksichtig auch, daß die Ventilstößel an den Oberflächen eingeschlagen sind (das ist bei mir das Problem, vermute ich).
Das kann man mit der Fühlerlehre natürlich nicht nachmessen, da diese nur am höheren Rand aufliegen würde und dadurch wäre das Ventilspiel immer zu groß.

[Wolfman]

Cool !
My daughter took German in school last year.
I will get her to look at this and translate.
Find out if she learned anything.
I am thinking if you remove the valve spring and retainer, you might have a chance.
Never tried it.
The problem that you might have is,
The valve may come up against the head before rising enough to get enough clearance to remove the adjusting screw .
In this case, it would be off with the head.
Keep us posted.

[Ben Dover]

Have you considered inserting the 0.016 feeler gauge whith the engine running, it will change the sound of the valve in question, if that is the problem.

[Wolfman]

Inserting a feeler gauge to locate the noisy tappet brings another thought.
If a worn lifter tip is causing the noise and you go to all the trouble to remove the tip to resurface or replace it.
You are only solving half the problem.
If the lifter tip is worn, the end of the valve stem will be worn as well.
The light comes on.
This goes back to Gindi's post of removing the valve to reface and the translation problem.
At the time, I was thinking he was saying resurface the valve face that seats in the head.
Now I am thinking he meant to resureface the tip that contacts the lifter.
Coffee is just starting to soak in.