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I'd guess you'll have to strip it all off and rebuild the driver's side axe and shovel areas--already purchased repair panels
the profile of the back panel---going to weld up the incorrect taillight locations and re-drill in the correct spots. Going to drill the trailer plug hole. Purchased footman loops and Trailer plug. Going to cut the correct angles above pintle hook area.
frame rear crossmember---Purchased new cross member
rebuild the windscreen outer and inner---Purchased new USA mfg inner from Ron, outer skin
eplace the tank---Purchased new tank and sump
and restore the floor profile next to the tank---Probably going to cut a hump piece from a donor
and ditch that dreadful rear seat!---went out with the garbage a few weeks ago. New one purchased.
That is an example of a rebuild I would have expected to see years ago when these vehicles were just "old" and most people were satisfied to get it fixed up and running. It wasn't that long ago when many people ( including myself ) didn't know what an original jeep supposed to look like. I bet the guy who painted that engine blue didn't know what color it supposed to be. But blue looked cool and you can buy it anywhere so, blue it is. Now, thanks to resources like the "G" and others who are dedicated to preserve the history and heritage of these vehicles, I can tell the diffrence between right and ridiculous. I have a real appreciation for those who put in the extra effort for a period correct restoration and are willing to share their knowledge with the rest of us. I'm not trying to knock the folks who choose to modify their vehicles. It's your jeep and it's a free country. I just want to give a tip of the hat to those who choose to get it right, and it's places like this where we can tell the diffrence.
Hi Rodney, Have watched your progress and admire your determination.For those of us that wish these little quarter tons be returned to as close to original as possible...it will be worth the trip.Many of us are where you are,to one extent or another...
Ralph MB 217454 DOD 8 March 43 ACM 118981 USA 20310334, S on cowl BANTAM T-3 DOD 20 Jan 44 serial 42539 ACM 100751 USA 0698107(est)
Hey Rodney Like the other guys have said it WILL be worth all your efforts at the end of the project. good luck! regards Nick ps To those people who have,or are going to mention "light at the end of the tunnel" due to the present economic climate, the light at the end of the tunnel has been switched off untill the situation improves
Removed 12V alternator and associated brackets, civilian oil filter assembly and bracket, civilian coil and bracket, spark plugs. I did notice that the oil is not the right consistency. I am very concerned there may be water in it. I have posted another thread for advice on surefire ways of confirming and fixing that. The dipstick tube turns where it inserts into the block. How do I fix that?
I intend on getting everything off and remaining parts masked that need to be and paint the block Ford Gray. Then I intend on masking the block and painting the frame the correct OD.
Made a little more progress this evening. I removed the incorrect glass top fuel pump. Let me know if anybody is interested in a known good working glass top CJ type fuel pump. I also removed the fan from the water pump pully. I researched several photographs of original and restored GPW's for correct paint characteristics.
I posted a question about a wiring loom piece I think I am missing as well as an add-on bolt bubba installed for his alternator bracket. I removed other pieces of bubba's alternator brackets.
I applied heat to the back side of the taillight holes to clear off that undercotaing bubba put on there to prepare it for welding. I used a propane torch which seemed to work well except it smoked up the garage more than I anticipated with the burning OD paint.
The wiring loom piece:
The special bolt bubba installed:
The rear panel I applied heat to (before):
General progress of engine disassembly/masking/painting:
Tonight I removed the bubba fuel lines from the engine area and stunk up the garage with fuel left in the lines dripping out. I also cut off the bubba civiilian oil filter lines going to the block. I removed the bubba bolt on the face of the water pump. I will have to source another 1/2 inch bolt to replace it. I pulled the repro crossmember off where I had it on the frame with the intent to drill the correct GPW holes in it, but then put it back on. I think it will be easier to drill the holes to match up to the frame with it on the back already. It is an MB crossmember that Robert Cotten was kind enough to give me.
I now need to source some garbage bags to cover the wheels and tires to mask them from the engine paint. I plan on using grocery store bags to mask the carb, distributor and other larger items on the engine. I am masking the small parts with the 3M painters tape. I am not going to bother masking that much of the frame area around the engine, as the plan is to paint the engine, then mask the entire block with a giant drop cloth after it is done and then paint the frame the correct OD.
Been very busy with work and very little time in the evening or even weekends to work on the jeep. I was able to mask the carb, engine mount rubber inserts, master cylinder and distributor in preparation of finally painting the engine the correct Ford grey.
I am toying with the idea of putting the body on the trailer and taking it to my brother-in-laws over the 4th weekend and leaving it with him for a while to do the welding work for me. He is a very experienced welder. I don't know however if he knows it is going to require 4 guys to move it around without a lift.
I cut the spring hangers off, but got a surprise. I thought I had the axle and all supported correctly but evidently I do not. The hangers came off but up popped the leaf springs against the bottom of the frame horns. Can you please give me sopme advice on how/where to support the frame/axle in order to take tension off the springs and allow them to fall so I can work on the frame horns?
Hey Rodney If i had that job to do,id put a block of wood beneath the front cross member then jack the frame up from that point untill i had the spring shackles in the correct position.That will also help to remove the thread cover bolts if theyve got less pressure in the spring eyes(dont forget if the shackle has a little raised rib on the outer edge its left hand thread) Hope that helps. regards Nick